I just wanted to give an update on the Atlantic coast of
Morocco as I believe, more and more yachts will visit this country on their way to
Canaries or
Atlantic crossing.
First of all, the reason of visiting (transiting)
Morocco was the
motor yacht (52 Feet)
delivery to Tenerife. The yacht was delivered by ship to
Gibraltar and from there on, we (crew of 2 people) had to do 900 n.m. trip. The main problem was the refueling. We could do 200 - 300 miles before we "went dry".
I can give an update on four
ports of Morocco - Mohammedia, El Jadida, Safi and Agadir as those were our "fuel stops"
Morocco in general;
Be ready for a very long immigration and
customs clearance! As a first time visitor, you might have an unpleasant surprise. The officers always come on board themselves to start the paperwork. I mention "to start", because after their (about one hour) visit, you are not done yet. They take away your passports, yacht
registration, the proof of
ownership e.c.
If you are visiting more than one port, you will have to do the "blue paper" (special
customs form certifying that you are bringing the yacht in transit, you are not trying to sell it in Morocco or didn`t
purchase it there). It will take an entire day to make it and you will get it some time next morning (if you are lucky). You can get your passports back in a couple of hours time together with the "port passes". Technically you will be able to get out of port and back by just showing your port passes, but my
advice is always to carry your passport with you. From port to port the procedure might have a little different twist to it, but basically it is more or less the same. Do not lose your port pass!!!
At each port you will get two stamps in your passport - the entry stamp and the exit stamp (four
ports - eight stamps!). Be absolutely sure that you get the second one! Do not leave the port without it, especially if you have gotten your passports back and feel free to go to your next
destination. Morocco immigration is very particular about that!
Make sure that at least one person on your crew speaks some basic French! It is extremely helpful as the first foreign language Moroccans learn in
school is French (not
English and not Spanish). With some your limited French and their very limited
English you should be able to manage.
Sailing along the coast of Morocco can be treacherous because of unlit
fishing nets. You can find those as far as 10-15 miles from the shore. If possible, do not enter any port at night time! Wait for a daylight!
As painful as the Moroccan paperwork is, immigration, customs and police officers are very nice and friendly. They really try to be helpful and there is no hostility towards you! But... be patient!
Mohammedia;
It is a somewhat equipped yacht marina almost attached to the
fishing harbor. It is quite dirty and smelly during the low tide. It gets better with the high tide.
Customs and immigration process takes a long time. The offices are far away. Showers,
fuel pumps and
WiFi are available. Tourist buses to Casablanca are at the port gates. Taxis are very inexpensive. My
advice - for a short trip, take a cab! Once you exit the port, many young ("English speaking guides") will try to hustle you. They are not aggressive, but very annoying!
As the first port of entry, Rabat probably would be a preference. We were not there, but that`s what locals were telling me.
El Jadida;
A fishing port. Not equipped for yachts at all! Very shallow! Watch for tides! Immigration and customs quite chaotic! No showers, no
Internet.
Fuel is delivered by hand in 35 liter barrels. All payments in cash. No receipts! You have to pay in advance. We just handed them a 1000 EUR. When we came back from our dinner, we had been already refueled and NOT cheated, which was quite amazing!!!
There is quite a good restaurant just next to the place you will be moored, at the Association Nautique d’El Jadida. The place sells alcohol (as oppose to many others that do not carry the alcohol licence).
Recommendation - enter only in case of emergency! Town has an interesting Medina (the old city center), but otherwise it is quite poor and dirty.
Safi;
Very large
commercial port and a fishing port. Not equipped for yachts, no fuel pumps for yachts, no
Internet. At the same time, people are extremely helpful. Showers are available at the Capitainerie building practically next to your
mooring place. Port gates (where the police and immigration offices are located) are quite far. There is a local civilian who takes care of all your needs. His name is Bouchaib. He speaks a few words of French, English, Italian and Spanish and has a good experience of handling yachts.
There are practically no draught limitations.
Highly recommended to visit the town! If you are already in Morocco, try to see Safi! It is worth it! Also try to go to Essaouira (ex Mogador). The Medina of Essaouira is even more spectacular! I have no information on Essaouira port (I believe it is like Safi), but the bus trip from Safi is certainly worth it! The distance is about 125 km.
Agadir;
Very modern European/American style marina! Fuel, showers,
WiFi and upscale
shopping available around marina. Immigration and customs are the most proficient of all visited ports. They share the same offices so, you will not have to run around the port searching for your papers and passports.
Agadir is quite expensive even by EU or US standards. As the town was practically destroyed during the earthquake of 1960, there is no historical part left for us to see, which is extremely sad!
At the same time, it is a very pleasant last stop in Morocco, before going to
Canaries or somewhere further, for those who enjoy comfort, clubs, pubs e.c.
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