Sail Drive Seals

[Grottie Yachtie]

Hi, I have a catamaran and is powered by two volvo md2030's with 120sd saildrives and using three blade feathering Gori props. On checking the oil in the saildrive the other day, it showed a bit milky on the dipstick. So, it looks like I've done an oil seal. I have never removed a Gori prop before or changed an oil seal in a saildrive. I am going to put her up on a beach next full moon and attempt to fix it. Is there any tricks of the trade that anyone knows that might help or any special tools needed. Checked on Google and it show's two oil seals to be replaced but on another clip, it also shows a large O ring. Would appreciate any information on the subject. Would hate to stuff it up.

Dave

[DougR]

When you replace the seals you should have on hand:
- a new zinc anode
- two new oil seals
- two new bearing carrier O rings
- liquid or gel oil sealant (permetex, etc.)
- waterproof grease
- drive oil
- oil drain plug O ring

After removing the prop, the procedure is roughly as follows:
- drain the drive oil
- remove the thrust sleeve on the propshaft just ahead of the prop (slides off)
- remove the old zinc
- remove the two Allen head screws holding the bearing carrier to the main drive leg casting
- removing the shaft and bearing carrier is easiest with a slide hammer threaded onto the prop shaft threads ( Volvo special tool or other)
- press the two seals out of the bearing carrier in a forward direction, and remove the two large O rings from the outside of the carrier
- install the first new seal in its seat with the spring side of the seal facing the sea water
- install the second seal with the spring side of the seal facing the oil
- install the new O rings
- put a thin layer of sealant on the machined surface of the bearing carrier where it butts against the drive leg casting. This is to keep water from entering this gap and causing corrosion. Waterproof grease can be used in a pinch.
- Put a bit of oil on the O rings and reinstall everything in the reverse order of disassembly
- Put a layer of the waterproof grease on the prop shaft and install the prop thrust sleeve
- Put on the new zinc
- Replace the oil drain plug using a new O ring and fill the oil in the drive
- Grease the splines on the shaft and reinstall the prop

You're good to go! ( I think I got it all)

DougR

[belizesailor]

Good procedure list. Its actually an easy quick job.

One thing I would add is to check the surface of the shaft where it mates to the seals. If it is scored or damaged in anyway it may not seal. A Speed Seal or similar should resolve the issue. A new shaft is stoopid expensive.

Note that sometimes, rarely, you may get a little water in the oil as the new seals seat. This is normally self resolving unless you got a seal crooked or something. Typically you can just pump out most of the oil with a vaccum pump and refill. The problem usually disappears after a few hours of run time.

You can also pump out and fill as a temporary solution until you can swap the seals.

Letting the water come out of emulsion with the drive unused is the worst option. Keep it churned up until you can pump it out or replace the seals.

[Grottie Yachtie]

Thanks a lot for that information. It will certainly save me a lot of time, knowing the right procedure. Much appreciate the information. Thanks again.

Dave

[Adrenaline]

Not sure if you're Drive are like mine, but one thing to check once you remove the prop is to try and move the shaft to see if there is any play. If you get even a small amount of play, there is a barring in the back that might need to be replaced. I have SD20's. Not many people in past threads bring that up but it's another cause if seals keep failing. Good Luck

[ggray]

This sounds complete! I would hope the OP has enough tide to give him the time to do all this! I'd hate to be in the middle of this job when the tide comes rolling in.

Unless there is a catastrophic leak, I'd consider just changing the oil and pressurizing it with a header tank. Hopefully, the job could be put off until a scheduled haul out.

Originally Posted by DougR

When you replace the seals you should have on hand:
- a new zinc anode
- two new oil seals
- two new bearing carrier O rings
- liquid or gel oil sealant (permetex, etc.)
- waterproof grease
- drive oil
- oil drain plug O ring

After removing the prop, the procedure is roughly as follows:
- drain the drive oil
- remove the thrust sleeve on the propshaft just ahead of the prop (slides off)
- remove the old zinc
- remove the two Allen head screws holding the bearing carrier to the main drive leg casting
- removing the shaft and bearing carrier is easiest with a slide hammer threaded onto the prop shaft threads ( Volvo special tool or other)
- press the two seals out of the bearing carrier in a forward direction, and remove the two large O rings from the outside of the carrier
- install the first new seal in its seat with the spring side of the seal facing the sea water
- install the second seal with the spring side of the seal facing the oil
- install the new O rings
- put a thin layer of sealant on the machined surface of the bearing carrier where it butts against the drive leg casting. This is to keep water from entering this gap and causing corrosion. Waterproof grease can be used in a pinch.
- Put a bit of oil on the O rings and reinstall everything in the reverse order of disassembly
- Put a layer of the waterproof grease on the prop shaft and install the prop thrust sleeve
- Put on the new zinc
- Replace the oil drain plug using a new O ring and fill the oil in the drive
- Grease the splines on the shaft and reinstall the prop

You're good to go! ( I think I got it all)

DougR

[Dulcesuenos]

If the prop shaft has grooves worn into which is common, I have successfully used some Emory cloth to smooth the edges of the grooves

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ggray

This sounds complete! I would hope the OP has enough tide to give him the time to do all this! I'd hate to be in the middle of this job when the tide comes rolling in.

Unless there is a catastrophic leak, I'd consider just changing the oil and pressurizing it with a header tank. Hopefully, the job could be put off until a scheduled haul out.

The list is detailed so seems long, its actually a quick process if no problems. About 30 minutes per drive if you have experience doing it (my guesstimate, never actually thought to time it)...so lets say an hour per drive for the uninitiated, but mechanically inclined. With two or more working you could do both legs concurrently.

Like any job, up front prep will make it go quicker and smoother...gather correct tools, fluids, etc first. And, checking tide tables of course! Set an anchor away from shore just in case the tide does catch you.

[dlockhart]

They can be done on a normal low tide on the right beach.
Myself and a friend beached on some nice sand at Panther Cay just south of Naples and changed both sail drives and boots on the same tide as that's where the lightening decided to seek earth and blew the cases apart.
Good luck and don't be hesitant.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by dlockhart

They can be done on a normal low tide on the right beach.
Myself and a friend beached on some nice sand at Panther Cay just south of Naples and changed both sail drives and boots on the same tide as that's where the lightening decided to seek earth and blew the cases apart.
Good luck and don't be hesitant.

Wow, full sail drive swap x 2 during low tide!

See, just doing seals will be piece of cake.

[Grottie Yachtie]

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the information on changing the oil seals in my saildrives. Took the boat up on the beach yesterday and changed the seals and o' rings, had new annodes but the one's I took off were about 95%, so put them back on again. Got it all done with about an hour to spare. Couldn't get a C spanner for the Gori prop, so made one up myself, which worked perfectly.

Grottie Yachtie

[Cloroxbottle]

Originally Posted by DougR

When you replace the seals you should have on hand:

- press the two seals out of the bearing carrier in a forward direction, and remove the two large O rings from the outside of the carrierr

The two large O rings should be easy enough, but for the life of me I can't get the two seals to budge.

Any recommendations? Just rip them out with a needlenose or?