Catalina 30 Rat's Nest

[Tillsbury]

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned yet is that I like to separate critical and non-critical systems. Wiring for everything that is necessary to operate the boat (nav lights, bilge pumps, instruments etc) runs to one side of my panel, and all the “comforts” that I can survive without are on the other side. That way, if I have to go delving into the panel at sea I know where I’m looking and there are only a small number of wires to be dealing with.

[De.windhoos]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned yet is that I like to separate critical and non-critical systems. Wiring for everything that is necessary to operate the boat (nav lights, bilge pumps, instruments etc) runs to one side of my panel, and all the “comforts” that I can survive without are on the other side. That way, if I have to go delving into the panel at sea I know where I’m looking and there are only a small number of wires to be dealing with.

I'm in the process of rewiring and designing a new panel. My panel will have 2 rows, one called "Ops" and the other one called "House". "Ops" will contain, nav lights, instruments, bilge pump, etc.
I'm still thinking about under what group the fridge will go

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by De.windhoos

I'm in the process of rewiring and designing a new panel. My panel will have 2 rows, one called "Ops" and the other one called "House". "Ops" will contain, nav lights, instruments, bilge pump, etc.
I'm still thinking about under what group the fridge will go

It depends whats in the fridge. Beer and it will be Ops, veggies will be house. [emoji1]

[OldGreyB]

"SO, does anyone have some well arranged panels to serve as inspiration? The fabled TO-BE as compared to my AS-IS? In IT I've seen network panels running the gamut from rat's nest to work of art..."

For some rework and layout inspiration plus workmanship you should watch Winded Voyage Season 2 Episode 8 [Spaghetti Wires and Hoses]. Specifically at time mark 12.24 onwards and then Episode 9 [Hi Ho, Hi Ho & Off to Work We Go] at time mark 10:25 onwards.

Pausing the video at those time marks and dragging the cursor will let you see the work in better detail

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[mitiempo]

Not my boat but a good example of excellent wiring. Much easier to understand and troubleshoot.

[iyamwhatiyam]

Wow. Thank you all for the terrific responses, quite a bit here to digest but all of it is good if not great! And a lot more fun and educational than the climate change dogfight going on elsewhere, sheesh. I hope others are enjoying it as much as me.

Today I am meeting the detailer to work out a plan to wash away the remnants of the P.O. and will be checking the AO which I suspect is wired through the A/B switch.

Assuming that ends up being the case, (at least I don't have an ammeter like earlier models), is it as simple as getting a LONG cable of the same specs and run it to the positive post on battery #1? What could possibly go wrong? I think the due diligence here is to analyze the current routing, (literally!), and work, (backwards, forwards?), from that. My alternator has the internal voltage regulator, is that the mechanism which will prevent an excessive charge rate? Since I have a battery charger that is fed by shore power, do I need anything else similar for the circuit from the AO to the positive battery terminal?

I'll be back with photos of the paper diagram stuffed behind the panel and also the battery bank which has its own sharpie diagram.

FYI - my resource materials are "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" by Casey and "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" by Calder.

I would say "finally" here, but I know it isn't. I have the digital multimeter, but across long distances, (e.g. I have 12V power at the PANEL for the bow nav light, but not at the BOW. I think this is where the tone generator would come in handy? Never used one obviously, this is where I thank everyone for their patience! https://www.amazon.com/electrical-to...trical%20toner

[sailormed]

I use an app (iPhone) called wire sizer to calculate ..... wire size! If you use longer wires, check that you do not need to increase in size, giving the extra length. Do not forget to include the negatif wire length in the total length.

[iyamwhatiyam]

There has been more than one call to wire the Alternator Output (AO) directly to the positive pole of the battery, and hopefully I am regurgitating that spec correctly. What I found is that the AO is wired to the Universal M25XP starter motor. If I'm interpreting THAT correctly, it is because of the heavy duty current, (amps?), that that circuit is beefy enough to handle to either run heavy amps TO the starter motor from the battery OR the opposite direction for charging purposes. I apologize to qualified electricians anywhere that might read this for the lack of knowledge exposed while writing this!

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by iyamwhatiyam

There has been more than one call to wire the Alternator Output (AO) directly to the positive pole of the battery, and hopefully I am regurgitating that spec correctly. What I found is that the AO is wired to the Universal M25XP starter motor. If I'm interpreting THAT correctly, it is because of the heavy duty current, (amps?), that that circuit is beefy enough to handle to either run heavy amps TO the starter motor from the battery OR the opposite direction for charging purposes. I apologize to qualified electricians anywhere that might read this for the lack of knowledge exposed while writing this!

Engines are shipped with the connection from the alt to the starter. That way any wire from a switch to the starter completes the connection for charging.

But it is not the best way. The best - in both my and many others opinion including Mainesail - is to wire the alt output directly to the house bank positive. House is the bank always most in need. The start battery is charged by an ACR, Echo Charge, Duo Charge or similar product.

This makes the switch - typically a 1/2/both one - a use switch and it has nothing to do with charging. Both banks automatically get charged from any source.

Any other charge sources - solar, shore power charger, etc - should be wired to the house bank only.

[iyamwhatiyam]

jharding, I am responding to your post from some time ago. I just learned about tone generators in my IT class, but I thought you needed to plug an RJ-11 into the wire to send a signal to trace? Do you mind clarifying, I would love for this to work!
Regards,
Bob

[iyamwhatiyam]

Connectors, connectors, connectors. While working on the mystery of the open shore power circuit, I became brave enough to start really digging into the many and mysterious wires behind the panel. I finally noticed the bare connectors behind the panel. Other connectors have been pointed out to me as well suited for Winnebagos. These are almost beyond belief. I've attached a couple of photos for your consideration.



Am I correct to assume that the best source for exactly which connectors to replace these with can be found in Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual? Or?



Where are the best places to procure marine electrical components?? Thanks!

[Westcliffe01]

If you keep an eye out on Ebay, there are times when there are sales on mill spec wire with teflon insulation and silver plated multi strand core. I bought probably more than I ever need for very little spent, (wouldn't cover heavy gauge needs) so I think I'm set.


If you just run to the automotive store every time you need a bit of wire, well that is expensive...

Originally Posted by hpeer

Yes I splice. Horror of horrors I’d DO NOT use heat shrink splices. I do coat with liquid electrical tape.

All this BS about tinned wire being required? Then how come my 2006 Yanmar MARINE engine harness is not tinned?

Good/Better/Best. Pick your choice based on wallet and priorities. I don’t look to resell this beast. I do what I think is right. Not the right answer for all.

But do do an adequate job. As a minimum.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by iyamwhatiyam

Connectors, connectors, connectors. While working on the mystery of the open shore power circuit, I became brave enough to start really digging into the many and mysterious wires behind the panel. I finally noticed the bare connectors behind the panel. Other connectors have been pointed out to me as well suited for Winnebagos. These are almost beyond belief. I've attached a couple of photos for your consideration.



Am I correct to assume that the best source for exactly which connectors to replace these with can be found in Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual? Or?



Where are the best places to procure marine electrical components?? Thanks!

Any good marine store will have Ancor or Vertex heat shrink connectors and Ancor tinned boat cable in different gauges.

In addition to Calder the book by Charlie Wing is very good and easy to understand.

https://www.amazon.ca/Boatowners-Ill...3815371&sr=8-7