YANMAR 2GM20 maintenance and Vetus waterlock

[sxsilver]

Hello,

On Saturday I went out and had a few issues when I turned my engine on to anchor. What happened was one of the hose clamps on the water cooling hose broke off so instead of cooling my engine the water was pumping into the bilge.

So Obviously I fixed that fairly easy with a new hose clamp. However it looks like a hole was blown through my Vetus waterlock exhaust. I ordered a replacement waterlock that should be here tomorrow.

A couple questions. How often should you replace hose clamps? Since one broke should I just replace all of them now? Also once I turn it back on or before I turn it back on is there anything else I should be looking for that may have possibly overheated? I would like to try to keep the damages to a minimum but I don't know what to look for.

Thanks.

[Shoalcove]

That's bad luck for sure! I don't tend to replace hose clamps as regular maintenance but I do try to check them over for proper tightness and condition from time to time. Also, I prefer to have two hose clamps at each connection to ensure a good secure seal. Particularly at critical spots like through-hulls or engine connections. I hope you're back sailing soon!

[four winds]

Condition of clamps will be noticed as it evolves by a tinkerer.

If a planner type, a skipper would determine an inspection schedule, I suppose.

It's unlikely all clamps need r&r at once. Doin so would be more costly in the long run, and possibly raise confidence in the boat.

Look for rust/corrosion. If it's more than a mere tint on the metal, check the spares (you got spares) for one.

Think about it...Will it sink us.....will I sink us trying to fix it.

Then take action with a phone or a wrench.

[a64pilot]

Usually two clamps are installed on anything critical, the reason is a clamp will look fine today, with no corrosion and break tomorrow.
I used to hate the wire clamps that took a pair of pliers to remove, but they were more reliable, I wonder why I do not see them in Marine use?

[sxsilver]

I think I'm definitely going to do major preventive maintenance. I was literally holding the hose in until we could anchor to fix it. I've noticed many only have one clamp. Possibly new hoses new clamps. I've only had it for two months and the guy before me had it for years and never had a problem so time for things to break....for me.

Now when I turn it on I notice a loud squeaking noise with a little smoke. Getting some help today so I can look at it. Hard to turn it on and look at it....makes me nervous if I need to cut it really quick.

Thanks for the responses.

[boatbod]

Ideal clamps are 304 S.S. whereas Scandvik are 316 S.S. I've found the cheap Ideal clamps corrode through the strap in fairly short order if allowed to get wet. The Scandvik's do not.

[JOHNMARDALL]

The hole in your water lock probably indicates that your exhaust system ran dry. Before you start up with new exhaust components, please check that the intake scoop is not blocked, that the raw water strainer is clear and that the impeller is in good condition. Also be aware that the exhaust hose from the mixing elbow down to the waterlock is almost certainly burned
Let me know if you need help
John Mardall
Vetus Maxwell Group

[Cheechako]

Buy good clamps, inspect them whenever you are in the vicinity. That's what people who don't want trouble do. BTW, many clamps sold and labeled as SS rust on the critical part, the screw that holds the clamp. You want a clamp that is "all ss".

[Uffemand]

Don't forget to check the hoses too. They should be flexible without cracks. With time they will either dry out and become stiff with cracks, or become like jelly if soaked in oil.

[Acushla]

As others have commented all clamps are not equal, you need good quality clamps in the first place. All raw water cooling hoses should be double clamped and all the exhaust lines double clamped. If as you say you lost the cooling water supply and burnt a hole in the trap then you also overheated the hose from the exhaust bend to the trap and possibly the after hose as well. You need to check for hardness/cracking in the hoses and replace as necessary.

[double u]

1. use only good stainless (316 if possible) hcs
2. before installation open hc all the way, smear a glob of waterresistant grease into the "worm"
3. always use two hcs, put each one on the opposite way from the other

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by boatbod

Ideal clamps are 304 S.S. whereas Scandvik are 316 S.S. I've found the cheap Ideal clamps corrode through the strap in fairly short order if allowed to get wet. The Scandvik's do not.

Indeed.

AWAB /ABA/ Scandvik, hose clamps are 100% stainless steel, with Non-perforated band & Rolled/rounded edges.

[sailalibi]

I recommend you check your waterlock for internal damage. I had a similar issue which melted the internal baffles of the waterlock which created too much exhaust back pressure.

[boatbod]

Originally Posted by sailalibi

I recommend you check your waterlock for internal damage. I had a similar issue which melted the internal baffles of the waterlock which created too much exhaust back pressure.

Yes, a Vetus muffler will melt if you run the engine with no water throughput.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by sailalibi

I recommend you check your waterlock for internal damage. I had a similar issue which melted the internal baffles of the waterlock which created too much exhaust back pressure.

He already stated he burned a hole in the waterlock and ordered a new one.