Water temperature fluctuations while showering - Beneteau Oceanis 40

[dlymn]

I am not guaranteeing that the accumulator is faulty, but nevertheless, here's some advice.
generic description but good detail
http://www.hydac.com.au/MessageForce...cumulators.pdf

n Australia a tank like yours might cost AU$75
Pressure Tanks - Pump Warehouse

But before you buy, check for water on the valve side of the tank or the pump cycling when the taps are off. Also turn every tap hot and cold on so that the pump is running without stopping. If it still keeps on stopping then it might be a replacement pump at a higher volume than the system is set up to cope with. This also might mean you need a bigger accumulator. If it turns out that the accumulator is faulty. (ie push in the pin in the centre of the schrader valve, if water comes out, it's kaput, then pump it up just 5-10 pumps, wait an hour and see if there's good air pressure or remove it pump it up and listen at the large hole for hissing or gurgling.)
If it's ok still take it to a house water pump supplier to have him check it. Also take the pump details so that he can assess whether the accumulator is suitable.

[AFKASAP]

Thanks for the really great replies. I thought I was going to relax this morning. Seems I now have work to do.

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[AFKASAP]

So here is the result of my pressure test. I used the tip of a ball point pen to depress the pin in the air valve. There was about 1 second of air hissing and nothing after that. Also there was no water coming out of the valve. . I ran the pump again and it still sounds and operates the same. I guess that means there was little to no air in the chamber. I will have to go an buy a pump this morning.

Any thoughts on my results?

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[GordMay]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

... The best fix would be to install a pressure balanced or thermostatic shower valve ...

I prefer the Thermostatic Anti-Scald valve.
Pressure-balance valves generally control a temp to +/-3 degrees (actually controll the ratio of hot to cold water), whilst thermostatic valves control to about +/-1 degree, regardless of supply temperature/pressure.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by AFKASAP

So here is the result of my pressure test. I used the tip of a ball point pen to depress the pin in the air valve. There was about 1 second of air hissing and nothing after that. Also there was no water coming out of the valve. . I ran the pump again and it still sounds and operates the same. I guess that means there was little to no air in the chamber. I will have to go an buy a pump this morning.

Any thoughts on my results?

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You need to find the instructions for your particular accumulator, and follow them.

If no water came out (and the pump was running and system pressurised at the time), then that probably means that you have the diaphragm type, and that your diaphragm is not ruptured. Probably all you need to do is pump it up with air. But follow the instructions! Should be easy to find and download if you find the model number on the unit.


I had the same problem last year, and just assumed (remember "assume" is "ass" out of "u" and "me") that I had a ruptured diaphragm, and would have bought a new one except I forgot my wallet. They're not that cheap. I went back to the boat, and had a look at the existing one, happened to find the instructions in my files, realized that there is no diaphragm to rupture, and saw that periodically you have to drain it to restore the air. I fixed it in about 2 minutes. Boy, did I feel stupid.

[AFKASAP]

Thanks Dockhead. I cannot find the instructions for the unit and cannot find any writing on the unit. I will have another look with a mirror in case there is something on the back.

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[GordMay]

It looks a lot like an SPX (Johnson Pump) accumulator.
➥ http://www.spxflow.com/en/assets/pdf/IB-201_Acctank.pdf

[AFKASAP]

Thank you very much GordMay. That's the one! I read the instructions and I'm off to buy a pump now.

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[AFKASAP]

So I found a bike pump in Amsterdam. Wasn't too difficult. I have added some air pressure and I will wait until shower time tonight to see if that has made a difference. In any case there was next to no air in the chamber so it needed a top up.

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[zeehag]

consider your hot water tank is only 5 gallons.
consider the accumulator holds less than that.
consider you are used to amurukun long lasting hot water showers
consider the only place for those is on land..
considering that even on land the hot water will vary in temp as you use it up,
then, when desirous of a HOT SHOWER, amurikun style, i always go to land.
boats were not designed to give these perfect non fluctuating temperature long showers.
doesnt matter how perfect your equipment is.
is why the gods invented shore showers for us ....

[dlymn]

Zeehag, the water management systems on a boat are much the same design as many non-city houses have albeit smaller. People in the rural areas enjoy water flows and pressures without suffering fluctuations unless something is wrong. On my boat, after the initial flush of cold water, I have pleasant showers considering the size of the pump. It has nothing to do with your country of origin.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by zeehag

consider your hot water tank is only 5 gallons.
consider the accumulator holds less than that.
consider you are used to amurukun long lasting hot water showers
consider the only place for those is on land..
considering that even on land the hot water will vary in temp as you use it up,
then, when desirous of a HOT SHOWER, amurikun style, i always go to land.
boats were not designed to give these perfect non fluctuating temperature long showers.
doesnt matter how perfect your equipment is.
is why the gods invented shore showers for us ....

Zee, speak for yourself, and our own equipment!

You can have a luxurious hot shower on my boat. Better than on land, because the boat rocks a little at anchor when you're under the shower! Even better is a shower under way

We only have 32 liters of hot water (I had to scrap the original 50 liter calorifier), but it's enough for a shower to beat any you have on land. I do turn it off while I'm soaping -- old habit -- but otherwise, I shower however I like.

The volume of the accumulator has nothing to do with how long your shower is. The accumulator doesn't do anything but dampen water hammer; it doesn't store water. Mine is only 2 liters and works perfectly.

Many sailors (including my Dad) think being at sea means not washing. They're even proud of their stink! I say bullocks to that! I generally take two showers a day, and refuse to change my habits at sea. We have 1000 liters (one cubic meter; one metric ton) of water in our tanks -- it's enough for whatever showers you want to take. Especially when I'm singled handed, like now!

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by GordMay

I prefer the Thermostatic Anti-Scald valve.
Pressure-balance valves generally control a temp to +/-3 degrees (actually controll the ratio of hot to cold water), whilst thermostatic valves control to about +/-1 degree, regardless of supply temperature/pressure.

I prefer the thermostatic valves too. But the pressure balanced type are readily available everywhere and work well enough.

[Stu Jackson]

Good advice. We have a shutoff in the shower head "wand" that passes just a tad of water through when closed. It keeps the temperature right once set without turning the shower off. We have a hot/cold knob setup, which is basically stupid for showers (or for saving water on a boat - we put in a water saver faucet spout, too, in the galley), those single faucet levers are much better, but the shut off works just fine for the head wand, so when you turn the shutoff back on the temperature stays pretty constant.

I agree, showering on the boat is grand.

"Boat dirty" sucks.

[Scott Berg]

I'd check the check valve going IN to the water heater. If it's stuck open you'll get fluctuations like this


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