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Old 20-04-2019, 06:57   #61
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Re: Windlass replacement?.... manual or electric?

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Originally Posted by jsbartley View Post
Well, to wrap up the thread, looks like my current electric windlass is better shape than I thought, and only requires some tweaking on wiring. Sooo, the options to consider a replacement are now a moot point. Thanks anyway for the education on options. I'm sure it will come in handy some day!
Well, I had actually missed this post before I replied. Glad it worked out.
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Old 23-04-2019, 22:20   #62
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Re: Windlass replacement?.... manual or electric?

I have a Maxwell VO700SR windless.It slips when raising the anchor.Does it
have a clutch to adjust for more tension?
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Old Yesterday, 03:17   #63
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Re: Windlass replacement?.... manual or electric?

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Originally Posted by bstreep View Post
Again, sorry for the thread drift.



We did not get the band brake. We decided to wait until we install to see what we wanted to do. Our old one is unidirectional, but we think we can use the old relay, and then add the new relay near the windlass to make it bidirectional. This will happen in a few weeks. A band brake is not necessary for unidirectional use, but you have to have the handle on deck. That's my understanding talking to Maxwell.



P.S. I passed up on a NIB 2500 a few weeks ago at a nautical flea market in Houston for $1200. It would have required new holes, and I hate new holes.
Oh OK, I understand. I found it interesting that the 3500 has almost similar dimensions to the 2500.i think the gearbox was the only difference if I remember correctly. The wildcat and capstan are I believe the same size because I thought maybe I could retrofit the brake on ours if needed later on. That was a great price for the 2500! But yes more holes is not ideal.
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Old Yesterday, 05:04   #64
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Re: Windlass replacement?.... manual or electric?

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Originally Posted by ellieone View Post
I have a Maxwell VO700SR windless.It slips when raising the anchor.Does it
have a clutch to adjust for more tension?
I had a Maxwell 770. You twisted the end cap (it had a knurled edge) of the capstain part of it to lock and unlock the chain gypsy wheel from the shaft (it had no effect on the capstan which always stayed locked to the shaft) . If you didn’t tighten it up enough (and, it took a good grip to tighten it up securely) , the gypsy would slip under load. I don’t know if your model is the same.
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Old Yesterday, 11:54   #65
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Re: Windlass replacement?.... manual or electric?

I think one difference in Electric or manual is getting the anchor up in a blow. It's a reality sometimes, you drag and have to move or have to vacate the anchorage entirely.
With electric you can motor/surge forward with the bow pitching up and down, get chain up fast and continue doing that. With a manual you get a couple quick cranks only between surges which may be 1-1.5 ft of chain.
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