Lipari 41: Rig and Sails

[Toys_with_time]

Hi all

I have been rigging a simple preventer for the main using a line through a block attached to the port centre mooring cleat and back to the winch at the helm but I am getting a lot of gelcoat wear on the cabin top. Ditto when running a barber hauler for the genoa on port side am also getting a lot of wear.

Anybody got any good solutions?


Also I find the FP supplied furler for the gennaker a nightmare - the furling line seems to want to jump out of the furler, coil around the furler or anything else it can get near and generally make furling a hazardous pastime, usually when it has just started blowing. Have thought about replacing it with a continuous line furler but they are expensive. I added a small block attached to the seagull striker cable to direct the line onto the furler but this has not completely solved the problem. Anyone got any ideas?

Toys_with_Time

PS why is it that the Mahe owners are so damn good about posting such great information? Come on Lipari owners - we can do it too!

[Takamoana]

Have you seen the thin, adhesive backed, stainless sheets? I think they are called wearandtearpads and they will conform to simple curves. As for the furler, we splashed out on a continuous line furler and could not be happier. Used the factory fitted screecher / furler on a Salina last year and am glad we got the continuous line.
Gary

[ggray]

We had problem #2 on our last cat, and it was mitigated when I replaced the stiff hi tech furling line with a more limber one of Regatta braid. More stretch though.

[Toys_with_time]

Originally Posted by ggray

We had problem #2 on our last cat, and it was mitigated when I replaced the stiff hi tech furling line with a more limber one of Regatta braid. More stretch though.

Nothing hi tech about the lines that FP supply as std (basically cheap and nasty ) but the furler line does seem to have a mind of its own

TwT

[ggray]

Not surprising, but I'll bet it's not as limber as the Regatta braid. And if yours is really cheap, the Regatta might even stretch less.

This may not help, but it could be worth a shot.

[DtM]

TwT,

Sorry but the solution is a contiuous line furler.

We tried various solutions on our Mahe before giving in.

The factory now (I think) provides countinuous line furlers.

[Gordon]

Hi TWT, As you would have seen when you visited or boat 'La Rochelle' you would have seen we fitted a Profurl-NEC 4T endless line furler, one of the easiest setups to use.We have that on our genaker.
Gordon.

[tnelson101]

Hello TWT,

Got my boat this past in Jan 2013, haven't had a problem with the furler yet.

I am concerned about my gelcoat and I am looking for solutions also. I am attempting to rig a parasailor and run the lines across the salon deck. I am doing my best to keep the lines up off the deck, but still a little leary. I will watch for wear. I am finding our set up is great for single handing, but trying to rig this other sail and still running the lines to the cockpit is trouble some.

Any ideas,

Thad
She's No Lady

[morsail]

Hey
You might try removing the core of the double braid line for about 20 or so feet starting at the drum end of the furling line. This allows the line to spool up on the drum tighter and make more room for the rest of the furling line. Only use this technique for furling sails that are NOT REEFED. Be sure the line is running out of the drum at a 90 degree angle and that you keep a little bit of tension on the furling line as you roll the sail out. This will keep the line tight on the drum and help prevent jams when you need to furl the sail. Reachers have a tendency to change the drum angle as the sail is rolled out. Be sure you have good halyard tension before rolling the sail out.
Hope this helps, been using furling for 40 years, there are some rules.
Tony

[monte]

we have a facnor continuous line furler on our L380 Gennaker. Total pain in the ass. I resolved the line pulling off the drum by directing it around the pullpit staunchion so its a 90 degree pull, but its still a dodgy setup. After the Gennaker unwraping itself in 20 knots I only ever hoist it when we use it and pull it down when we finish with it (around 15-20 knots max.) A single line system would be much better I think.
I was experimenting with a preventer the other day, I just looped a line around the boom near the end and made it off to the rear cleat. I dont know if yours would work better like that.

[Dod42]

Anyone fitted intermediate cars on their main? I saw it done on "Whiskers" and thought it a good idea. Gave the sail a better shape if not pulled down really hard.

They also had a clever attachment arrangement at the head of the main that meant you didn't have to attach the square top to the top car before raising the sail. It meant you could just raise it (subject to lazy jacks) from the helm. I will certainly go with with that option but interested in the intermediate cars.

[Dod42]

Some photos of places you usually only see when things go badly.

These where taken during the commissioning of my new Lipari

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Dod42

They also had a clever attachment arrangement at the head of the main that meant you didn't have to attach the square top to the top car before raising the sail. It meant you could just raise it (subject to lazy jacks) from the helm. I will certainly go with with that option but interested in the intermediate cars.

You must be talking about these two arrangements.
The Best Way to Raise and Lower a Square Top Mainsail

Doyle Anomaly Headboard

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1305931

Incidence Sails method

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1306050

[Dod42]

Yes the guys are finishing putting her back together and will be rigging as per the Incidence method. Seems to work well. Photos to follow when we take delivery in 10 days

[Dod42]

The Evolution now has different boom fittings. The goose neck is different