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Old 02-10-2015, 23:14   #1
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Living aboard in the med

Hi
I'm new to the forum so please be nice to me!
My husband and I are looking to take a few years out and spend it on our boat in the med, we did this about ten years ago and spent the time around the Balearic Islands, Tunisia, Morrocco, Scillily and Sardinia. We didn't get the chance to go to Croatia, Greece or Turkey.
We would really like to sail around the Greek Islands, my husband has cancer so we need to fly home every six weeks for treatment, has anyone got any ideas, recommendations of good anchorages, places to stay in the winter etc.
We love to sail, we like mixing with people but hate crowds and hate very touristy places but love to mix with the locals and meet other liveaboards.
Look forward to hearing from you
Christine
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Old 03-10-2015, 00:58   #2
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Most of Greek sailing is to tourist resorts but they are very low key. Keep away from the blue and white buildings. However there are plenty of very cute villages and excellent anchorages. Many small ports will let you stay indefinitely for no charge although you might not have electricity or water on tap. You can rent an apartment for 300-400 euros a month. The sailing is better than most places in the Med. most of the people you will come across speak English. Greece is not a very sophisticated place and you might be disappointed with some aspects of community infrastructure but the kindness and support of the locals more than outweighs this. Cost of living is less than 80% of most other developed nations BUT the coffee is expensive. They should control the price like Italy does; Greece does this for drinking water.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:09   #3
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Search the forum for VAT and Schengen requirements.


If you have to fly back regularly (assuming you are a non-EU citizen/resident), there are some rules to play by.
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:08   #4
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Christine.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:44   #5
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cchatters View Post
Hi
I'm new to the forum so please be nice to me!
My husband and I are looking to take a few years out and spend it on our boat in the med, we did this about ten years ago and spent the time around the Balearic Islands, Tunisia, Morrocco, Scillily and Sardinia. We didn't get the chance to go to Croatia, Greece or Turkey.
We would really like to sail around the Greek Islands, my husband has cancer so we need to fly home every six weeks for treatment, has anyone got any ideas, recommendations of good anchorages, places to stay in the winter etc.
We love to sail, we like mixing with people but hate crowds and hate very touristy places but love to mix with the locals and meet other liveaboards.
Look forward to hearing from you
Christine
Christine,
I hope you and your husband have a wonderful time in the Med and that his cancer treatments go well. We've been here in the Med all summer and loved it so much that we're going to spend next summer here too
Beware of Schengen if you're not an EU resident. The 90 days within 6 months is strict. However when you fly home for the treatments that will stop the clock for the days you're gone.
Turkey and Criatia are still outside Schengen so yiur travel there won't count either. Croatia is trying to get in Schengen so track that. So far it doesn't seem they will be in during 2016, but it's best to keep watch
You will need visas for Turkey but it's very easy to get them online and they're not expensive.
We preferred the more remote, low-key Greek islands too. Some of our favorites: Paxos in the Ionian Islands, Milos in the western Cyclades and the Little Cyclades southwest of Naxos, but everywhere off the beaten path has been great.
I'm attaching a picture of our track through the Greek islands. If you want to know about anywhere we went, PM me or write me through our blog
In terms of where to stay for the winter, look at Cleopatra in Preveza or Yacht Marine in Marmaris Greece if you want to leave the boat on the hard while you go home. To stay on your boat in the water, Schengen presents a problem so look at Montenegro Marina.
We are in Turkey now and it's still summer here through October. Once you get south and east of Bodrum, it's really lovely.
Best wishes to you both
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:47   #6
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Re: Living aboard in the med

If you sail around the Ionian, there are a hundreds of anchorages and with lots of socializing. You can fly in and out of Preveza in the summer on cheap fights anywhere to Europe. There are three big boatyards in Preveza which are pretty efficient getting you in and out. Call Jenny at Karyatis Travel in Preveza she will get you the best prices guaranteed to all destinations. If you head to Corfu or Zante, Easyjet flys in on a regular basis. If you fly in to Athens you can get a bus up to Preveza too, but is a solid 6 hour trip odd. The bus is seldom full.

The Ionian has gentle winds, blue seas and is more Venetian in architecture, no blue domes around here! We spent 2 seasons there and would do it all again! If you require flights in and out regularly this is the area I would suggest as there are hundreds of awesome anchorages a few hours sail from the airport.

In the Aegean there are not many marinas, you find more town keys than you do marinas. With the are a busy charter hub, I would not chance leaving my boat unattended for too long, due to poor seamanship. If you want more info I am happy to help out.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:57   #7
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Can highly recommend sailing out of Gocek, Turkey. Have done Croatia and both sides of Greece and then discovered Southern Turkey - all the way from Bodrum to Antigua.
It truly answers all your needs . And airports not too far away ( Dalaman only 25min from
Gocek )
Email me if you would like further info.
Best wishes Bruce
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:01   #8
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Thanks for the information, we are currently UK residents and I must say last time we sailed we weren't aware of the schenzen zones, how do liveaboards manage with this? Do you have to keep renewing the visa and are the countries strict about it?
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:08   #9
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Re: Living aboard in the med

You didn't mention kind of boat and sailing experience. Like you, we love the Med. But the world is a different place than even 5 years ago. We spent 10 years in the Med from Gib to Turkey to Tunisia and points in between. Croatia is at the top of my list, with Turkey close behind: great cruising, good anchorages and marinas, reliable services, when needed ... And generally inexpensive. We stopped in many Aegean islands but enjoyed the Ionian coast more. If you are double-handing, I think you want less challenging passages. I would suggest Croatia and then skip down to the Ionian. If the Aegean "bug" persists, enjoy the Corinth canal and head to the many islands there. For live aboard, I recommend Kremik Marina about 30 mins from Split Airport. There are. other marinas between airport and Kremik, too, but Kremik has it all. The Ionian coast is beautiful, easy navigation and many nice anchorages and marinas, without the cruise ship and ferry traffic found in the Aegean. The Turkish coast, from Marmaris south is very nice cruising. Our Turkish base was Finike in southwest Turkey. Very nice marina, good facilities and small town vibes. Right now, though, Turkey seems to be struggling with other Mideast pressures. I'd keep an eye on news ... Or defer for awhile. That's another reason to focus on Croatia and Ionian Coast. Travel safe and enjoy your time in the Med!
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:46   #10
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Hi

In my opinion, you can't beat the Balearics. And considering your husband's situation, Palma de Mallorca has first rate medical facilities (some better than available in many parts of the USA - I should know, I'm a doctor and have had a home in Deia, Mallorca for 27 years!). Palma is a cosmopolitan city, excellent restaurants, history, nightlife and the boating facilities are first rate with well-run marinas and a number of excellent shipyards in competition with each other. Cruising is great with many calas, harbors and cruising destinations around Mallorca, Ibiza, Minorca, Cabrera and easy reach to southern Spain, France and and within a 2 day sail to Sardinia, Corsica and the Italian ports. Palma Mallorca has the busiest airport in Europe in he summer- with excellent connections to just about anywhere.

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Old 03-10-2015, 08:58   #11
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Hi, I have spent the last few years in Croatia and love it. My favourite is Preko
Marina which is on an Island but only 20 minutes and a couple of Euros to get to the
Mainland City of Zadar by ferry. The weather is fantastic in summer and good in winter except for Jan and Feb. The Marina will give you a good winter rate and there are hundreds of places within a few hours sailing . I came in 2013 to take my new boat home to New Zealand and have been here since. I will leave this year but will visit ona regular basis. Ask for Helena , Anita , jakov or Alan and tell them Glenn from NZ told you. If they look after you like they did me you will never want to go home . The restaurants are top class and supermarkets are great but it is like a small fishing village. I wish your husband good luck with the cancer treatment and many more years of sailing.
keep smiling Glenn
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:37   #12
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Re: Living aboard in the med

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Originally Posted by Cchatters View Post
Thanks for the information, we are currently UK residents and I must say last time we sailed we weren't aware of the schenzen zones, how do liveaboards manage with this? Do you have to keep renewing the visa and are the countries strict about it?
In that case, the visa rules are much more relaxed. UK isn't part of the Schengen but as part of the EU, you can stay longer.

Also, VAT is much simpler. It's already paid or you pay it immediately (with some exceptions if you are moving back from abroad).
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:42   #13
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Hi
We have a very similar idea once we can find a home for our last child who hasn't flown yet.
We have sailed around the Ionian and Saronic areas on charter boats for the last four years and have nothing but good experiences.
I had planned on a fairly large boat to live on year round, but having seen the cost of Greek property we reckon we could afford a flat and a smaller (30-36ft) boat for the same cost as a large boat.
Most head for Corfu or Lefkas or the Athens side of Greece.
However there's a place called Kalamata which sits between both areas.
It's a 24 hour sail to the Ionian and the Saronic but it's off the flotillas route and is very quiet.
There's an airport 20 mins from the town and Easyjet fly there over the summer months.
For more info type sailing kalamata into Google for a blog and info.
Have fun!
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:03   #14
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Re: Living aboard in the med

We spent a whole season in Turkey, from the Dardenells down to Gocek and farther south, then the next season in Greek waters, and a 3rd season going from Cleopatra Marina north to the Adriatic and Venice, then back south thru Croatia again and over to Italy. Croatia and Montenegro are absolutely at the top of our list, followed very closely by Turkey(the whole country!!!), with Greece being a definite third. And for my money, the western end of the Medd is not even a mention! While the Ionian is quiet and things are close, it is also VERY crowded, mostly with rental boats and people who may (or may not!) know what they are doing. Also, the Greeks have some confusing rules about non-EUs being there for extended periods, lots of added taxes/expenses, and they do pay attention to the Shengen 90-day thing....a real pain in the AZZ! The Turks, on the other hand, were very accommodating and easy to deal with....we ended up buying a 2-year "residence" Visa and had no issues whatever! And there's no 90-day concerns at all, the ruins/things to see are the best, and the towns are fun. We spent about half our time in anchorages and about half backed into a town key(inexpensive, and with water and power usually avail). Medical and Dental help was easy, very inexpensive, and top-drawer (from our experience). The Turks are exceedingly helpful and friendly, and Marmaris, Turkey (Yacht Marin) is a great place to base out of/winter over etc. We're now in the Caribb, but Croatia and Turkey are very fond memories.....highly recommended!
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Old 03-10-2015, 15:46   #15
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Re: Living aboard in the med

Hi Christine and Hubby, I only spent several weeks in Greek waters. Sailed on 50 foot Cat with 4 couples. We had a blast. We sailed the Sporades Islands out of Volos. I was in heaven. We sailed in late May and the water was still pretty chilly for swimming. A week later the temperature, after we flew home, was over 110 degrees. They had huge fires. The winds can be heavy at night which caught us by surprise....like a Chinese fire drill type of surprise when everyone started dragging and fouling anchor lines at 1 am in the morning.


One thing I would like to add...do not miss visiting the national museum at the base of the Coliseum. If you are a museum buff...I would put it up as one of the best I ever been to...anywhere and anytime..it is that good. The sculpture, metal work, jewelry, historical artifacts, and countless other things are directly related to western and middle eastern lore. I thought the Hermitage in St Petersburg was hard to beat...I thought the National Museum in Beijing was hard to beat..or the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xian...but I have to say IMO no one can match the National Museum in Athens


The other thing about sailing in the Aegean especially when you get down near Mikonos...the wind is channeled through the gaps between the different island. It heavy wind that you can barely walk in ....I said something to a hotel clerk and he laughed and said back to me, "welcome to my world!"
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