Installing and rigging an outhual

[svsonora]

Follow up to my Boom Vang question here. Thank you all so much for the responses.

I'm installing a 4:1 purchase outhaul on my Bristol 30. I was going to use two fiddle blocks at the portside of my boom ending with a cam cleat on the boom. If that isn't enough, I will add a cascade block. Boom is nothing special, another original old school roller reefing (external) boom.

Mainsail is a standard mainsail with a shelf foot on barrel slides (not pictured).

My question - should I put the blocks on a track? Is it okay with the blocks just hanging there, only supported by rope tension?

Would love to see photos of your external outhaul setups, especially on similar sized boats.

[roverhi]

Running the outhaul from a padeye on one side to the clew of the sail and back to a cheek block on the there side and then forward forward to a cleat will give you 2-1 purchase which should be adequate force multiplier for an outhaul on your sized boat. Adding a block to the sail clew would reduce friction even more. If you needed more power, a cascade block on the outhaul tail would do it. Install a couple of strap eyes to contain the outhaul line igoing forward if any droop bothers you. The PO on my Sabre added another cheek block to turn the outhaul line back with a clam cleat over the companionway so outhaul tension could be adjusted from the cockpit.

From the pictures doesn't look like you are set up for jiffy/slab reefing even though you have reefing cringles on the sail. For the cost of one or two cheek blocks and a couple of cleats, it would make a world of difference reefing the sail. Wouldn't even try to use the roller reefing. It can ruin a sail with one reef attempt.

[svsonora]

Thank you. all my reef hardware is on the stbd side. I hve a very simple setup. Stbd side cleat holds reefling line at one end, goes up and through the cringle, back down to a block that is on a track, then forward to the mast to another block and a cleat. Forward cringle is manually hooked tot he gooseneck as the mainsail comes down.

I need to add another one since my new sail is coming with 3 reef points. For bay work (chesapeake) I was going to run the lines on 1 and 2 or 1 and 3. For offshore work (first one is coming up later this year, DMV penninsula circumnav, probably solo) I would run 2 and 3.

is 2:1 purchase really enough? Buying less blocks (just a few cheek blocks) is appealing since it'll save me money.

[Down East]

I’d say, do a simple test. If you have some bullet blocks laying around, rig up a 2:1 and a 4:1 to see what works best.
Keep in mind that the more purchase, the longer the tail that you’ll need to need keep from coming loose and getting tangled.
On my racing boats we always used a lot more purchase to be able to adjust under load. On my cruiser, I don’t adjust outhaul that often and when I do, I flog the main to take off the load.
I’d be more concerned with keeping my boom as snag free as possible - cleats and higher profile cheek blocks have a habit of snagging other lines at the worst time when sailing alone - just my opinion.

[TrentePieds]

A counter-question: What you perceive the function of the outhaul to be? I'm not being snarky- just trying to guide your thoughts into a useful channel, both in regard to your outhaul, and in regard to other aspects of your rigging.

ALWAYS ask this question: "What is the PURPOSE (of this piece of gear)". It is by following the infinite regression of questions and answers that will flow from the first question that you get real understanding.

As RoverHi, who knows what he is talking about, tells you, a multiplier of 2/1 is enuff. For a Bristol 30 in the cruising trade it is, IMO, MORE than enuff. On this boat, in this trade, you don't need a force multiplier at all. However, using one, set up as RoverHi tells you, is the easy way to place the falls of the outhaul readily to hand at the foot of the mast.

TP

[stormalong]

Why not put your outhaul inside the boom. That's the way mine is. In nearly 30 years of ownership I've restrung it twice. Lots of sea miles too.

[Boatguy30]

I would say a lashing is adequate for the way most people sail. If you still want a 4:1 do a cascade setup with the 2:1 to claw as suggested then a single block on the working end of that first piece

[Snore]

Originally Posted by svsonora

Sorry I have to ask why!?!

This is not a loose footed main. Therefore, once the outhaul is set, and the foot of the sail is tightened, easing it will have nominal affect on sail shape.

Simply take some dyneema and lash it- 2 turns and you will get a 4-1 advantage. There are many other ways to spend this money.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Snore

Sorry I have to ask why!?!

This is not a loose footed main. Therefore, once the outhaul is set, and the foot of the sail is tightened, easing it will have nominal affect on sail shape.

Simply take some dyneema and lash it- 2 turns and you will get a 4-1 advantage. There are many other ways to spend this money.

Agreed! Don't overcomplicate the issue. Snore's suggestion of slippery dyneema and a two part lashing will serve quite well.

Jim

[svsonora]

Thank you. New mainsail is going to be on bolt slides, making it easier to tune. but at the same time I fail to see why i shouldn't just go with the dyneema idea, even if I had a loose footed sail.