Lewmar window leak

[Caleb C]

Hi Sailors,
Did a search on leaking Lewmar window (portholes), but found mostly weather routing results. Fortunately it rarely rains on our boat, but when it happens the Lewmar windows drip. I've tried new seals, tightening the compression block screws, and even shaving an 1/8" off the blocks to try and stop the leak. I'm wondering if the water is somehow getting thru the post that extends thru the window glass? Sorry, no pics to share, but hope someone with similar experience has conquered this problem. Our closer is the type that applies more pressure as you rotate the thumb knob to close the window. There are 4 knobs on the long windows and 2 on the short ones.

Thanks,

[lifgun]

Where the water is dropping?

[Caleb C]

Originally Posted by lifgun

Where the water is dropping?

If the pic from the link below loads, the leak would be at the lower left corner where the grey compression block with 2 screws is located. The water appears to drip from the compression block.

https://www.lewmar.com/cms-assets/oldstd~2.jpg

[umi]

Did you already try to replace the o ring (second item bottom up on the left)?

Pretty big chance that will solve the problem. While you are at, it clean the rubber seal around the portlight with a handy wipe and put on some vaseline.

[belizesailor]

Lewmar...some of the worst designed hatches and portholes on the planet.

[Chardonnay]

Look at the frame from the outside. It looks like you have the old style with a 2 piece frame. They used some kind of grey rubbery gasket material to seal the gap. That material gets old and fails. The water comes in the gap and flows down to the bottom of the frame and drips out near the locking toggles. Makes you think its the lock or the gasket but I've replaced the o-rings and the seals with no luck.

Using a small blade, dig as much of the old material out as you can, clean everything well and fill the gap with 4200 or similar and work in as well as you can. This may last a year or two. Or just replace them now, that's my next solution.

[Caleb C]

Originally Posted by umi

Did you already try to replace the o ring (second item bottom up on the left)?

Pretty big chance that will solve the problem. While you are at, it clean the rubber seal around the portlight with a handy wipe and put on some vaseline. Attachment 163995

Thank you for this suggestion. I haven't tried this yet. I will replace the o-rings next trip to the boat.

[Jim Cate]

If replacing the o-rings on the knobs does not cure the leak, and the big seal that the glazing seats against is not perished, it is likely the seal between the upper and lower halves of the exterior frame. These tend to perish after a few years, and despite appearing ok, will admit water.

The cure is to take a fine tipped blade ( a scalpel works well) and dig out the rubber seal in the jjoint. Working carefully, get all the bits tht stay attached off, and then clean with acetone on a bit of rag. When good and clean, mask off around the gap and force sealant into the gap, leaving no holidays behind. If you carefully pull the masking at this time, you will be left with a tidy joint, looking much like it still had the gasket in place.

I use Sikaflex 291, but any of the polyurethane goops would work. I'd avoid 5200 just in case you should need to do it again in a few years.

Jim

[Caleb C]

Originally Posted by Chardonnay

Look at the frame from the outside. It looks like you have the old style with a 2 piece frame. They used some kind of grey rubbery gasket material to seal the gap. That material gets old and fails. The water comes in the gap and flows down to the bottom of the frame and drips out near the locking toggles. Makes you think its the lock or the gasket but I've replaced the o-rings and the seals with no luck.

Using a small blade, dig as much of the old material out as you can, clean everything well and fill the gap with 4200 or similar and work in as well as you can. This may last a year or two. Or just replace them now, that's my next solution.

Thank you. I'll try both the o-rings and this suggestion next boat visit.

[Caleb C]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

If replacing the o-rings on the knobs does not cure the leak, and the big seal that the glazing seats against is not perished, it is likely the seal between the upper and lower halves of the exterior frame. These tend to perish after a few years, and despite appearing ok, will admit water.

The cure is to take a fine tipped blade ( a scalpel works well) and dig out the rubber seal in the jjoint. Working carefully, get all the bits tht stay attached off, and then clean with acetone on a bit of rag. When good and clean, mask off around the gap and force sealant into the gap, leaving no holidays behind. If you carefully pull the masking at this time, you will be left with a tidy joint, looking much like it still had the gasket in place.

I use Sikaflex 291, but any of the polyurethane goops would work. I'd avoid 5200 just in case you should need to do it again in a few years.

Jim

Thank you Jim, so glad to get these tips. Next boat visit has this on the to-do list.

[Caleb C]

Thank you for the replies. Going to try these tips next trip to boat. Will let you know how it works.

[Plangstraat]

I have the old style two part outer frame Lewmar portholes. I used a steel pick to pull out the old grey sealant. With careful picking I was able to pull out the old material in one piece leaving a clean gap.
I then resealed with 4200, taping the frame and working in the material with a putty knife. The boat has been dry ever since.

[Caleb C]

Originally Posted by Plangstraat

I have the old style two part outer frame Lewmar portholes. I used a steel pick to pull out the old grey sealant. With careful picking I was able to pull out the old material in one piece leaving a clean gap.
I then resealed with 4200, taping the frame and working in the material with a putty knife. The boat has been dry ever since.

Dry boat sounds like music to my ears. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Caleb C

Thank you Jim, so glad to get these tips. Next boat visit has this on the to-do list.

[Eric50]

On these hatches, the black rubber sealant around the plastic glass is ageing and leaking / disbonding over the time as a common problem.

in addition to the o-ring areas and also the base frame bolted on the deck's side.

For the black seal around the glass, Sika is selling a kit for refit and the operation is quite easy to do.

Roughly, you have to remove the plastic glass just by pushing or pulling on it, or by removing the black sealant, either way, both are easy.

Once you have removed the glass, clean all the sealant remains that stayed on the frame, degrease the bearing edges where the glass will be put back on.

Then applied the Sika primer included in the kit, make sure it is well spread on the surfaces, it is very important for the future bonding of sealant and glass.

Then lay a bead of the black sealant all around the frame, on the horizontal bearing surface, place the plastic glass and make sure it is well centered and leveled. Once this step done, fill the gap around the plastic glass and the frame with the same black sealant, level it with appropriate profile wedge supplied in the kit or wet fingers, make sure all entrapped air in the beads of sealant are removed if any, then let it dry for 12 hours or so.

Once all the assembly is dry, use the last part of the kit, which is a black masking adhesive tape including straight and corner section, stick it all over the black sealant area, around the glass, outside, in order to have it acting as a UV screen to protect the sealant which is sensitive to UV.

Of course, prior the primer and sealant application, you'll have to use masking tape everywhere necessary to protect the frame and surrounding from any primer and sealant unwanted projection.

All include, it tooks me 1 to 2 days to perform the first 700 x 700 mm hatch, and 1 day maximum for the 2 others (excluding curing time), once I get used to it. The kit is including all necessary materials, tools for forming the wet sealant capping and instructions, enough for the said size of hatch (700 x 700 mm or roughly 27" x 27" size).

Hope this will help.

[Caleb C]

Hi CF friends,
Update on the portlight window leaks.
Your o-ring and sealant suggestions were key to stopping the leaks... Finally!
First the many o-rings were replaced, which fixed a couple portlights. Then I dug out the old sealant from between the two halves. That completely stopped the leaks. Last week we encountered several rainy days and nights while sailing the southern California coast and enjoyed having a dry boat.
Attached is a pic of a torn o-ring.
Thank all of you who gave helpful advice.