Rudder post and packing nut corroded/blue

[chowdan]

Hey everyone,

I have finally gained access to my rudder post and stuffing box. The hose clamps are in dire need of replacement. Before I remove them and replace them, I had been thinking about possibly replacing the hose for the stuffing box as it seems it is quite old. I'm trying to figure out if i can replace the tubing in the water or not.

The question I have for everyone is, my rudder post and the packing glad/nut area is highly corroded(blue/turquoise) and the rudder post has a build up of stuff. Should I scrub the rudder post down and coat it in grease/oil, or should I leave it be until spring time when we do a haul out?

Attached is a photo of the area, however, its hard, if not impossible to see. I recently removed the diesel tank and engine which has gained me access to this area. Soon she shall be scrubbed and painted.

Thanks!

[fstbttms]

No pic.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

No pic.

You are quite right. Added photo to this post.

[SVTatia]

Chowdan, looks like your stern is above the water or just at the water level, very little water will come in.
Make sure your bilge pump is is in good condition before you start.
Apologies, but I digress - to me the priority should be your cockpit drains, you need to install proper seacocks and thru hulls, they are a disaster waiting to happen.

[Cheechako]

It appears the top is above waterline, so not too big a deal. But that's a very old boat. With the access you have, I personally would drop the rudder out of the boat, inspect the shaft well, clean and rebuild everything as necessary. Quite possible the rudder is waterlogged inside too. Just a good time to make it 100%.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

It appears the top is above waterline, so not too big a deal. But that's a very old boat. With the access you have, I personally would drop the rudder out of the boat, inspect the shaft well, clean and rebuild everything as necessary. Quite possible the rudder is waterlogged inside too. Just a good time to make it 100%.

I wouldn't doubt that the rudder is definitely waterlogged. I am planning to haul out in spring time to do some work on all sea-cocks, new paintjob below water line and possibly above water line, dropping the rig to do a full inspection and also pull the drive shaft and plug the hole. I am also suspecting i'd need to rebuild the entire rudder as well(which will be prioritized based on condition when we haul out).

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Chowdan, looks like your stern is above the water or just at the water level, very little water will come in.
Make sure your bilge pump is is in good condition before you start.
Apologies, but I digress - to me the priority should be your cockpit drains, you need to install proper seacocks and thru hulls, they are a disaster waiting to happen.

I have also been quite concerned with this design. Surprisingly this is completely original design. I have talked to many bristol owners who have never had problems with their drains. I figured as long as I keep them in good condition, and inspect regularly, I can get away with it for now. Theres a lot of other projects that need work - like fixing all the other seacocks.


I have been thinking about sticking a 55gallon drum on the bow and filling with water to raise the stern. I could also pull the outboard off and stick it on the bow for extra weight. Though maybe it'd be easiest to just replace the dead hose clamps and wait for 4ish months till i haul out to do any sort of "major" work like this

[Djarraluda]

Originally Posted by chowdan

I wouldn't doubt that the rudder is definitely waterlogged. I am planning to haul out in spring time to do some work on all sea-cocks, new paintjob below water line and possibly above water line, dropping the rig to do a full inspection and also pull the drive shaft and plug the hole. I am also suspecting i'd need to rebuild the entire rudder as well(which will be prioritized based on condition when we haul out).




I have also been quite concerned with this design. Surprisingly this is completely original design. I have talked to many bristol owners who have never had problems with their drains. I figured as long as I keep them in good condition, and inspect regularly, I can get away with it for now. Theres a lot of other projects that need work - like fixing all the other seacocks.


I have been thinking about sticking a 55gallon drum on the bow and filling with water to raise the stern. I could also pull the outboard off and stick it on the bow for extra weight. Though maybe it'd be easiest to just replace the dead hose clamps and wait for 4ish months till i haul out to do any sort of "major" work like this

Big issue with attempting to do the rudder post now is....How to get anything on or off the post. Typically, it means dropping the rudder. Not something you want to do in the water unless you like diving for the rudder. Is it a spade, or does it sit in a gudgeon and pintle?

[Don C L]

Funny Bristol did it that way. I'm not sure that gland is above the waterline. Mine (almost identical set-up) is just glassed in all the way up, no packing gland. Maybe you could do that with yours. You can see a shot of mine in my album (Columbia 29.) Personally I'd wait till you haul it to clean it all up. I'm more interested in the cockpit drains with no seacocks on them...

[capt-couillon]

As stated by others, I would probably wait for the haul out. No need to tempt the fates unless absolutely required. That being said, a trick I have found useful for corroded bronze fittings (packing glands, turnbuckles, hanks etc) is to soak them down with boiling vinegar while rapping on them with a small hammer. Works way better than most penetrating oils on salt corroded bronze.

Good Lucki

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by chowdan

I have also been quite concerned with this design. Surprisingly this is completely original design. I have talked to many bristol owners who have never had problems with their drains. I figured as long as I keep them in good condition, and inspect regularly, I can get away with it for now. Theres a lot of other projects that need work - like fixing all the other seacocks.

Yeah actually you could leave them till haul-out...but be careful there is nothing back there that might fall against them and crack them... good thing the engine is not in there! I definitely have seen that before in some other make of boat... can't recall right now... kind of odd...

[Chenega]

Originally Posted by chowdan

You are quite right. Added photo to this post.

Wow, get seacocks / ball valves on those hoses for drains and double clamp um.
I think this all should be an out of water repair.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Chenega

Wow, get seacocks / ball valves on those hoses for drains and double clamp um.
I think this all should be an out of water repair.

I used to have a 1963 Pearson vanguard with the same fiberglass standpipe setup for the cockpit drains. To the best of my knowledge to this day that boat still has the standpipes and hasn't sunk yet.

Our present boat has proper tapered cone seacocks on the cockpit drains.......I think I would prefer the fiberglass standpipes. They don't need maintenance and don't give you a false sense of security. Besides I can't think of a single time I've closed cockpit drains.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I used to have a 1963 Pearson vanguard with the same fiberglass standpipe setup for the cockpit drains. To the best of my knowledge to this day that boat still has the standpipes and hasn't sunk yet.

Our present boat has proper tapered cone seacocks on the cockpit drains.......I think I would prefer the fiberglass standpipes. They don't need maintenance and don't give you a false sense of security. Besides I can't think of a single time I've closed cockpit drains.

Yeah, while having seacocks and closing them is "best". I doubt I have ever closed any myself. There are high risks and there are acceptable risks.