1983 Catalina 30 Lifelines

[windlass79]

Hi All, I'm new. I can't find the search function. So I'm going to assume this question has never been asked (unlikely).

One of the turnbuckles for the lifelines on my Catalina 30 broke. I was able to replace it with a little guidance from the girls and the tools available at West Marine. But I'm concerned about the state of the rest of the system.

There's a plastic coating on the existing lifelines. I've been told that the coating contributes to the corrosion and eventual failure of the lifelines. And that the new lifelines don't have a plastic coating. So I'm thinking of removing the plastic. Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Rob

[psk125]

Removing the plastic will allow you to see places that might be worn, corroded, or otherwise weakened, which is probably a good thing. The plastic jacket can serve to hold water next to the wire, which can cause crevice corrosion in the metal. That's why boats that race can no longer have coated lifelines, and why the "new" lifelines aren't coated. If you don't race, you can still use coated lifelines, but, now knowing what you know, you probably won't want to. It is quite simple to get new lifelines. You take your lifelines off, give them to the rigger or chandlery of your choice and they will copy them. Some people make their own, but finding appropriate end fittings that are owner-friendly without specialized tools can be an adventure. Once you have your new lifelines, you can use the old ones to set up ziplines in the back yard.

[Jim Cate]

Or you can change to Dyneema lifelines. We did so some years ago and are still happy with the change. They are easily fitted by the owner, no expensive terminals are needed nor any swaging, and they IMO offer a nicer feel when in use as a guide whilst walking on deck.

For a while they were allowed by the racing rules, but I believe are no longer approved. Reason was concern about longevity and susceptibility to chafe and accidental severing. In a cruising venue, we've not had much worry about either factor. We do use a size above the minimum required... something racers might not want to do! Works for us...

Jim

[psk125]

While dyneema can be tied off or spliced, wire doesn't tend to chafe much. On the other hand, the line can be cut more easily. This could be a good thing in the case of a dismasting, with the spar getting snagged on the lifelines and banging into the hull; cutting the line could end the damaging pounding. Cutting a lifeline might allow easier retrieval of a MOB, too. For this reason, our wire lifelines have lashings at the ends so that we can cut them if need be.

[Tetepare]

Use the easy button catalinadirect. Com

[OS2Dude]

West Marine has a rigging service. When I worked for them we had a customer come in with his old standing rigging and I was surprised at how cheap it was for him to get them copied with new wire and fittings.

[JimsCAL]

I also switched to dyneema when my coated lifelines needed replacement. Cost was about half what having new wire (coated or uncoated) would have been. I went with 1/4 inch single braid which has double or more that of wire, and is a VERY easy to splice. I used splice fittings from Defender and reused the turnbuckles and gate fittings. I would absolutely do it again this way.

[goat]

What Jim said. Dyneema makes life easier. You do everything yourself.

I'm quite abusive to mine as a test for future replacement of standing rigging. The stuff takes a beating. I wouldn't go back to steel lifelines.

The only downsides I've found so far are; laundry hanging to dry tends to slide, and the dark colour is harder to see at night.

goat

[thinwater]

1. Many (most?) people like the feel of plastic much better than bare wire, which can cut. That is sufficient reason for them. Change them every 10 years and corrosion won't matter. Just sayin'.

2. Bare wire will burr the station holes. If you switch to Dyneema, you will need to polish them (you need to polish them either way).
3. Dyneema is cheaper and won't last as long as bare wire.
4. How long they last is dependent on whether you hang rail meat.



Any of these can be fine. I don't much care and I've had all three.

[billdre]

I second Thinwater's attitude. I sail a 1979 O'Day that had coated wire lifelines when I bought it. A couple years ago I replaced them with the same coated wire system because I figured they lasted over 30 years with only signs of rusty corrosion. Also I waited until West Marine had one of their sales and got them for something around 30% off. It fit easily in my annual maintenance budget.

[Ambler]

I replaced my lifelines myself with 5mm 1x19 stainless. I used Sta-lok eye terminals, shackled to the pulpit and shackled to adjustable pelican hooks at the pushpit. I can release the pelican hooks to allow the lifelines to drop away where needed when lifting or hoisting something aboard.

Plastic coated lifelines are bloody dangerous having very nearly lost my life when one failed while solo offshore in the 80's before they were officially banned.

Please let anyone you see or know still using them to get rid of them or even offer to help them replace their lifelines.