Hi folks,
I have a Goiot 312 (10) windlass ("10" apparently referring to chain size of the gipsy) on my Bene, I believe original install, and I'm trying to do some servicing on it. Googleing didn't reveal much but I found this "Goiot Technical Instructions 312 Windlass" (pdf attached) Also viewed some articles and Youtube videos about Lofrans horizontal windlasses, although not exactly same oroducts but they helped a lot in learning.
I have a few issues but will start with this one first:
On the photo I attach you may notice the SS bolt holding the SS ratchet lock pin (I really do not know the true name of this part, pardon me) is BENT.
I got the bolt moving about 20 to 30 degrees using a socket wrench but as it became apparent it didn't want to move more I quit trying to open it by force.
Seems to me the bolt is bent not only on the outside of the housing but also in the inside. So any excessive use of force might break the threads, the housing or the bolt, or all of them. I do NOT want to experience this.
I would appreciate advice on how to proceed please. I have given it wd40 a few times a week ago. Then Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil a few days ago. No progress. It is my opinion that it's the bending of the bolt that keeps it stuck. Not so much corrosion or grim. So how do I get the bolt straight without braking the casing or the threads?
My thoughts so far are to try to heat the bolt and either try to bend it back using leverage force, or heat it and try knock it straight with a rubber mallet or normal hammer. If with a hammer then maybe have a wooden twobyfour in between to make the blows a bit more gentle. Whatever way I should try avoid braking the casing, looks like aluminum.
So, does this sound like a solid plan?
I have Bosch GHG 600-3 heat gun which blows a max temp of 600ºC, is that enough heat? Or should I get a gas torch instead? Which method is better, bending back by force or smithing it with a mallet or a hammer? How much heat? How much force..?
I have googled about stuck bolts but a bent SS bolt in aluminum is harder to find. Anyone had a similar challenge and can offer good advice?
Well, I broke the bolt. So not looking for answers to questions above in post #1 anymore... I reckon there IS a whole lotta corrosion in there.. SS bolt in aluminum..
Next step is drilling and tapping I suppose. Not sure if I want to try using an extractor or easy out. May just go one size larger. Let's see..
Meanwhile, below is the the exploded view (pdf attached).
Here some info about other Goiot's windlasses at their site (scroll to about half way down the page):
Thanks guys, I took the windlass out and it's now on it's side in the anchor locker so the wd40 can sit in the bolt hole and hopefully penetrate in a bit. Also was able to find a bolt extractor set (not easy here) and will try to utilize that. Yes, I know it is of paramount importance that you get the punch hole as center as possible.
Meanwhile, anyone interested in videos about bolt extraction here was a very good one:
I was told PB Blaster was the best penetrating oil presently on the market. It is what I used to loosen up the barrel and gypsy on my Goiot. By the way, I removed that ratchet bar as I've never used the windlass manually. The same problem you have with that part has the ratchet tool permanently connected to its stainless anchoring pin, making it just an interesting heirloom.
I've taken the lass apart and its going through a refit, new seals, oil rings and oil seals, motor cleaned and motor case rust converted n painted, bearings and brushes are good and motor works good and is smooth.
Plan is not to paint the lass case it as I've read many windlass paint jobs only last a few years at best, but rather just to polish using metal polish.
So if that white stuff is aluminum oxide would it be ok to just polish over it? The oxide would act as a protecting layer against further corrosion and that would be no biggie and just ok?
If you can arrange to get a fair amount of heat on the boss surrounding the broken bolt prior to putting the juice to the "ez-out" you will increase your chance of success. Try to keep it local to the boss, but get hot enough you can not keep your hand on it. Expansion of the aluminum boss relative to the SS (?) bolt will break the galvanic corrosion between the threads.
Make sure to coat the threads of your new bolt with PTFE (teflon) gel or at the vary least a good layer of Lanocoat. Repeat anywhere you can get a barrier coat between stainless and aluminum.
Have a Goiot 309 (manual 2 speed) I am rebuilding for sale. Last problem is the eternal stuck-clutch common to these units. Same issue, aluminum capstan threaded onto 1" stainless shaft. Don't have to worry about overheating the internals, so gonna get the capstan body up to around 350-400 F, insert a short bar in one of the provided holes, and smack it good (in the correct direction) with the big-damn-hammer. Not much use without freewheel so I consider it already broke. Worth a shot...
Totally off subject but too helpful not to pass along. Had to remove the base plate to replace a busted shear pin in the counter-shaft. Of course the small stainless machine screws were cold-welded into the aluminum body. To top it off, they were straight slotted, not phillips or torx. Of course the screwdriver wants to climb out of the slot and chowder it up before breaking the screw loose. Ex airframe mechanic working on a project near by pulled a can of valve-grinding compound out of his bag and said "Watch this"... Doped up the screw slot with compound and then gave her a twist. No climb out, and the screw came loose. Seems the abrasive in the compound increases the friction in the slot enough to get the job done. Neat trick.
__________________ "It seemed like a good idea at the time"
I've taken the lass apart and its going through a refit, new seals, oil rings and oil seals, motor cleaned and motor case rust converted n painted, bearings and brushes are good and motor works good and is smooth.
Plan is not to paint the lass case it as I've read many windlass paint jobs only last a few years at best, but rather just to polish using metal polish.
So if that white stuff is aluminum oxide would it be ok to just polish over it? The oxide would act as a protecting layer against further corrosion and that would be no biggie and just ok?
If it is salt its a different matter right?
I could not brush it off with a brass brush and white vinegar, so I'm tempted to think it is indeed aluminum oxide.
What you guys reckon?
PS. not much taste either...
Thank you for kind reply CaptCoullion I'll get back to your post later but right now this white spots issue is more critical.. therefore bump.
Thanks guys. So phosphoric acid dissolves aluminum oxide I gather..
And I reckon those whitish spots are aluminum oxide, not salt as they are so hard to remove, brass brush did almost nothing, dremel does it but also removes the good al..
How about I just polish over the spots? Would that be ok?
here was a very good one:
Linear Mode
Recent Discussions