Volvo Penta 130S-B Sail Drive Lower Seal Replacement

[Cotemar]

I am trying to replace the two lower seals on my VP 130S-B Sail Drives.
I am having a problem removing Ref. # 23, part number 3582887, Spacer .
See the attached parts pdf.
The spacer moves for and aft on the prop shaft about 1/8 inch and rotates freely, but will not slide off the shaft.
The workshop manual does not mention anything special to remove this bushing.
Should this slide off the prop shaft by hand or is their a special process or tool to remove this bushing?

Mark

[svcattales]

Mark,

I have the 120S-D drive and yours is a little different. Question: do you need to remove that bushing?

When I remove the shaft, I use a puller tool (like a car dent puller) to pull out the shaft with the outer bearing housing still attached (after removing top and bottom bolt). I don't know if the seals will slide over the bushing after you get it out, but if they do, you shouldn't have to remove the bushing.

If you do need to remove the bushing, I don't see anything in the diagram that would keep it from coming off. You might try using a puller with jaws and try to increase pressure gradually to see if you can get it free. If it doesn't come off fairly easy, it maybe time to call a dealer or parts store for some expertise.

Good luck.

[Cotemar]

svcattales,

The seals are just behind the bushing and will not slide over the bushing.
I tried prying the bushing off with a couple of screw drivers from behind but still no luck. VP was not helpful. They told me to call my local VP service mechanic.

Do you have a bushing like this? Does bushing slide off?

Mark

[svcattales]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

svcattales,

The seals are just behind the bushing and will not slide over the bushing.
I tried prying the bushing off with a couple of screw drivers from behind but still no luck. VP was not helpful. They told me to call my local VP service mechanic.

Do you have a bushing like this? Does bushing slide off?

Mark

Mark,

No, I don't have that bushing and I don't know the purpose of it. If it spins and there is no visible circlip holding it in, I can't figure out what could be holding it in. Is there any clearance between the bushing and shaft that you could put like a very thin feeler gauge to see if there is some kind ridge or internal circlip holding the bushing on?

[RJW]

Mark

After looking for articles about replacing the seal I understand the procedure is remove the bolt in the end of the cone, remove the cone and then remove the bearing housing, remove the shaft from the bearing housing to replace the seals.

So far I cannot get as far as you did.

On one the bolt in the cone is resisting a lot of pressure to turn it. I will continue to try and soak with penetrating oil and possibly heat near the tip of the cone. Hopefully it will give up.

On the other leg the bolt is out but the cone is proving a challenge. I can turn the cone 3mm to 4mm but when I release the pressure it springs back to the original position. The cone appears to be turning with the shaft visible between the prop and the bearing housing. Do you have any clues from when you removed the cones.

Lastly, what was the result of your original query re the bushing.

Roger

[Cotemar]

RJW,

I ended up prying the bushings off with 2 screwdrivers. It appears that they just had a burr on the Inside diameter. Once I filed the burr off the bushings would slide on and off with no issues.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post795839

I was told by a few VP mechanics that you do not have to chance the shaft seals for a long time, like ten years. You only need to change the seals if the gear box oil gets milky.

[RJW]

Mark

I eventually got the bolts and cones off. They had been assembled using a hard light green thread sealer. The bushes were free.

A VP mechanic who inspected prior to purchase in Sydney told me to replace the seals next time I had the boat out. The oil was not milky but I found that evidence that water had got past the first of each pair of seals. Engines are 900 and 800 hours

I saw in http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...e-77049-2.html that making sure the props don't fall off is pretty important. I will use blue loctite to re-assemble.
Are you able to help with the torque settings for the cone and the bolt through the cone?

Thanks Roger

[Cotemar]

RJW,

Here is the torque spec from the VP SD130s-Workshop_Manual.
Just PM (private message) your e-mail address if you need a copy of the manual.

[fer]

hello sir


I read that you a manual off the VP saildrive 130S


it is possible to get a coppie



fer_clerc@hotmail.com

yours sincerely

Fer from zeilersforum Holland

[rmaher]

Because the zinc was not tightened properly, I have a damaged bearing carrier on a 130s-b saildrive. In a perfect world, I would pull off & replace the old bearing carrier without dealing with the seals, bearings, etc but I am fairly certain this is not possible. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks - Rob

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by rmaher

Because the zinc was not tightened properly, I have a damaged bearing carrier on a 130s-b saildrive. In a perfect world, I would pull off & replace the old bearing carrier without dealing with the seals, bearings, etc but I am fairly certain this is not possible. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks - Rob

The zinc tightness should have nothing to do with the bearing carrier.
The bearing carrier has its own bolts to tighten.

You can replace the bearing carrier separately from the 2 seals the bearing and the shims

[rmaher]

The loose zinc wore away its attachment points on the exterior of the bearing carrier. If the bearing carrier will come off with out all the other mess, it makes for an easier job (yeah right!) though I assume the shaft comes out with the bearing carrier.

Thanks for the quick reply!

[Cotemar]

The bearing carrier pops off separate from the shaft

[rmaher]

Anyone know the torque spec for the prop cone bolt on a 2 blade prop for the 130s saildrive? I found the bearing carrier, zincs but not the prop cone nut

[rmaher]

Originally Posted by rmaher

Anyone know the torque spec for the prop cone bolt on a 2 blade prop for the 130s saildrive? I found the bearing carrier, zincs but not the prop cone nut

Of course, had I only read the complete thread ...