Partial skeg mounted rudder removal

[mobern]

I don't know the correct name for the bronze cap on the bottom of my partial skeg but it needs to be removed so I can replace the rudder bearing. It appears that there are 6 bronze dowels that hold the cap in place (see attached photos). Does anyone have any experience/knowledge with this type of attachment system ? It's a 22 year old boat built in the Ta Shing yard in Taiwan. I have tried to reach them by email with no response.

[chowdan]

Have you tried taking a punch to the bronze pins to see if you can just drive them out?

[Orion Jim]

It’s just bronze rod peened on both sides. Grind the head off flush and drive the rod out with a suitable punch. Easy job.

[mobern]

Tried a punch with a 2 lb. hammer, not moving.
The rods are currently flush but they may still be peened over. Maybe drill with the same diameter bit as the surface size to see if they are peened over ?

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by mobern

I don't know the correct name for the bronze cap on the bottom of my partial skeg but it needs to be removed so I can replace the rudder bearing. It appears that there are 6 bronze dowels that hold the cap in place (see attached photos). Does anyone have any experience/knowledge with this type of attachment system ? It's a 22 year old boat built in the Ta Shing yard in Taiwan. I have tried to reach them by email with no response.

After grinding or cutting those pin heads off, you can then use a same diameter drill bit to remove the ends of the pins to allow the bushing plate to slide down and away from the rudder stock and skeg.

You'll then be left with the job of removing those pins to finish the removal.
If there's enough metal there you might try heating the pin and twisting it out with Visegrips.
If not you may end up drilling them out completely.

Hopefully you've left room under the rudder to slide it out if your removing the entire rudder.
SV Cloud Duster

[mobern]

Many thanks Boatyarddog, that all sounds like a logical approach.

[jimbunyard]

They could also be bolts that someone has sawn off in a perhaps somewhat misguided attempt at 'streamlining', though this is not evident in the perfectly round perimeter of the pin/fastener in the upper right. The threads could however be on the other side...

If you clean up the other side and find an uneven perimeter, then the fastener is threaded, and you'll have to drill out at least the threaded side.

If I were attempting this, I'd drill both sides with a bit that matches the diameter of the pin, and then try again with a steel drift that also matches that diameter (to avoid mushrooming the end of the pin, thereby locking it even better in the hole), leaving the gudgeon/shoe in place as both a guide and support for the structure it is mounted on whilst pounding the pin out...

[jimbunyard]

Also, if you can get some help, holding the biggest hammer (10-12 lbs) you can find firmly against the opposite side while pounding sometimes works wonders...