Gaskets for bronze ports

[b-rad]

I have 16 beautiful bronze ports in my boat, they all leak a little, need to be rebeded and the gaskets replaced, anyone found a place to buy gasket by the size or the foot?

[Chenega]

Go to: McMaster.com
I've done that several times and have found needed gasket materials


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[Orion Jim]

What is the brand of the ports? If Spartan they sell replacement gaskets. It is not just size you need concern yourself with, durometer (yes it's spelled correctly) is very important.

[Rhapsody-NS27]

on the owners group for my boat, people have discussed replacing the gaskets to keep them from leaking. Some people have used some sort of rubber but many people have been using 1/4" by 1/4" felt and seems to be working well for others. Depending on the size of the gap in yours, of course.

something like what's found here.
Duro-Felt Products

I haven't gone with felt myself, but thought it could be an option for you to consider.

[Cheechako]

We need to know the type of gasket. Some are hollow D shaped and that is readily available.

[tkeithlu]

One of the rubber/cork combinations that McMaster-Carr sells probably would give a good water seal in this low temperature low compression situation. If you use gasket paper, it will be thinner (I don't know how much variation in gap you have) and might need to be impregnated with oil to keep it watertight. It's no big deal to make a template by using stiff paper and tapping out the outline, cutting the paper with the round end of a ball peen hammer.

[sailstax]

I used this

McMaster-Carr

for my brass portholes. 3/8 inch fit the channel in mine perfectly and no adhesive was required. Not one has leaked in the 18 months since I replaced the gaskets.

[Cheechako]

Trim Lok has a multitude of seals, all shapes etc. http://www.trimlok.com/cat/D-Profile-Sponge-Rubber-Seals/Rubber-Seals/All-Product-Categories_145.aspx

[Vengeful]

I just used this: Perko Portlight Weatherstripping
one 10-foot roll was enough for 6x 8" ports if I recall correctly. I scarfed the ends and glued them together, and glued the bottom of the strip into the channel.

[foufou]

I used rubber tubing from a local supplier. The hollow tube compresses easily and has not leaked

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

What is the brand of the ports? If Spartan they sell replacement gaskets. It is not just size you need concern yourself with, durometer (yes it's spelled correctly) is very important.

Durometer refers to the hardness of the rubber (or other material) used in the gasket. And it's important, as if the gasket is of the correct size & thickness, but it's too hard, then it won't compress properly to form a good seal. And the same is true if it's too soft. For then it can be so soft that it'll be easily displaced & thus form a poor seal. In addition to wearing poorly.

You also obviously need to know if the gasket is flat, vs. having a shape to it, such as the D-shape in one of the above posts. Or possibly some other profile shape.
This in addition to it's thickness, width, exact shape, etc. And whether it's held in place mechanically, with a flexible adhesive, or both. Plus, some gasket materials also have fiberous reinforcements built into the rubber, & sometimes UV stabilizers as well. Plus some other key features at times. Though usually for sealing up ports, more mundane rubbers & polymers are used.

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

One of the rubber/cork combinations that McMaster-Carr sells probably would give a good water seal in this low temperature low compression situation. If you use gasket paper, it will be thinner (I don't know how much variation in gap you have) and might need to be impregnated with oil to keep it watertight. It's no big deal to make a template by using stiff paper and tapping out the outline, cutting the paper with the round end of a ball peen hammer.

Are you referring to port light gaskets here, or engine gaskets? As I'm used to tapping them out of paper with a hammer for the latter, but not the former. So some clarification would be helpful please.

[dbcreed]

I recently did this. Use closed-cell material. Search for "Closed Cell Cord." Be sure to get the right shape (e.g. round or square) and diameter (e.g. 5/16", 3?8" etc.).

I saved a bunch and have had good results with this source: Closed Cell Sponge Square Cord Neoprene EPDM 5 16 x 50 ft Long | eBay

I recommend using the right adhesive to secure Neoprene to your bronze ports: 3M 19868 Scotch-Weld Rubber & Gasket Adhesive. $15 at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/3M-1300-Neopr...BAdhesive&th=1

[b-rad]

Was hoping not to glue it in, makes such a mess for the next time, but I guess the first set lasted 31 years. Just ordered a roll of the foam seal, will let us know how it works out

[Vengeful]

Originally Posted by b-rad

Was hoping not to glue it in, makes such a mess for the next time, but I guess the first set lasted 31 years. Just ordered a roll of the foam seal, will let us know how it works out

Yes, i think unfortunately the glue is necessary, otherwise the soft foam likes to hop out of the groove when opening and closing the ports..

I fount it pretty easy to clean the old glue-n-foam out with a brass brush, some sandpaper, and some lacquer thinner.

[Chenega]

Originally Posted by sailstax

I used this



McMaster-Carr



for my brass portholes. 3/8 inch fit the channel in mine perfectly and no adhesive was required. Not one has leaked in the 18 months since I replaced the gaskets.

[emoji106][emoji106] McMaster has self adhesive gasket material. I've also used on my bronze ports - 4yrs not a single leak.