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snakebird · 18-09-2004, 10:15

Every type of boat will have its own proponents, some more vocal than others.

What seemed to be lacking from the discussion so far, was any mention of the budget for the purchase of the boat and the physical capabilities and number of the intended crew.

If, for example, one is comfortable with the notion of spending $400 - 500,000 on a first boat while, at the same time, he is a 30-something in peak physical condition with many friends to crew, then a well-built, modern sloop with racing capabilities should be just about perfect. On the other hand, if budgets and physical capabilities are limited, then so too are the choices.

Much of what JeffH has said regarding the layup of early fiberglass boats is certainly true. However, there were many exceptions; one has only to be careful in selection and use the services of a good surveyor to be able to differentiate between the good, the bad and the ugly.

Anecdotally, I've experienced the result when hurricane forces caused my boat to collide with another, lesser one in a marina; my 1972 fiberglass ketch suffered scratches to the hull along the turn of the bilge and a broken stern rail. The other, modern, high-priced boat? It's foredeck peeled open like a sardine can and it filled with water and went to the bottom.

Other factors that may influence the selection include the size and cost of new sails. The large 400 sq. ft dacron mainsail for a sloop may cost $3-5,000. A smaller one of 290 sq ft for a ketch like mine can be had for under $3k. The larger sail will also weigh more and require more effort to raise or reef in a 'blow' or just to carry around on deck when the seasons change.
At age 61, singlehanding a 25,000 lb boat, I'm concerned about reducing sizes and weights to manageable levels.

Depending upon whether a boat is likely to be exposed to long open water trips or merely sailed in protected waters, a fin keel, spade rudder boat will produce a livelier, more responsive motion, with quicker (more tiring) rolls and surge, while a longer keel & skeg or so-called full keel will generally produce an easier motion at sea, albeit with some loss of maneuverability in tight quarters, like marinas.

Anecdotally again, my "stays'l ketch" has many more sail plan options as wind strength and sea state increase; the popular "jib & jigger" (working jib & mizzen) provides a nice easily handled motion off the wind at anything up to about 25kts apparent. At higher winds/rougher water, I can rollup the jib completely, put two reefs in the main, and sail comfortably with my heavy air stay's'l and reefed main up to 30-35 kts apparent. None of the changes in conditions require me to do foredeck sail changes or to have crew along to handle the boat.

In the final analysis, "you pays yer money and you takes yer choice" - after getting as much information in advance as is possible.

Just another opinion...

18-09-2004, 10:15	#11
snakebird Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 24	Every type of boat will have its own proponents, some more vocal than others. What seemed to be lacking from the discussion so far, was any mention of the budget for the purchase of the boat and the physical capabilities and number of the intended crew. If, for example, one is comfortable with the notion of spending $400 - 500,000 on a first boat while, at the same time, he is a 30-something in peak physical condition with many friends to crew, then a well-built, modern sloop with racing capabilities should be just about perfect. On the other hand, if budgets and physical capabilities are limited, then so too are the choices. Much of what JeffH has said regarding the layup of early fiberglass boats is certainly true. However, there were many exceptions; one has only to be careful in selection and use the services of a good surveyor to be able to differentiate between the good, the bad and the ugly. Anecdotally, I've experienced the result when hurricane forces caused my boat to collide with another, lesser one in a marina; my 1972 fiberglass ketch suffered scratches to the hull along the turn of the bilge and a broken stern rail. The other, modern, high-priced boat? It's foredeck peeled open like a sardine can and it filled with water and went to the bottom. Other factors that may influence the selection include the size and cost of new sails. The large 400 sq. ft dacron mainsail for a sloop may cost $3-5,000. A smaller one of 290 sq ft for a ketch like mine can be had for under $3k. The larger sail will also weigh more and require more effort to raise or reef in a 'blow' or just to carry around on deck when the seasons change. At age 61, singlehanding a 25,000 lb boat, I'm concerned about reducing sizes and weights to manageable levels. Depending upon whether a boat is likely to be exposed to long open water trips or merely sailed in protected waters, a fin keel, spade rudder boat will produce a livelier, more responsive motion, with quicker (more tiring) rolls and surge, while a longer keel & skeg or so-called full keel will generally produce an easier motion at sea, albeit with some loss of maneuverability in tight quarters, like marinas. Anecdotally again, my "stays'l ketch" has many more sail plan options as wind strength and sea state increase; the popular "jib & jigger" (working jib & mizzen) provides a nice easily handled motion off the wind at anything up to about 25kts apparent. At higher winds/rougher water, I can rollup the jib completely, put two reefs in the main, and sail comfortably with my heavy air stay's'l and reefed main up to 30-35 kts apparent. None of the changes in conditions require me to do foredeck sail changes or to have crew along to handle the boat. In the final analysis, "you pays yer money and you takes yer choice" - after getting as much information in advance as is possible. Just another opinion... __________________ don Allied 39