Greg;
To answer your question, the Coleman box draws a max of 48 watts at it's highest setting, which is as a freezer. If you are using it as a refer, it can be drawing as low as 8 watts. I think in real world use, you are looking at 2 amps draw as a nice refer unit, but remember, it is only .9cuft of interior space. Perhaps Jedwards can cofirm or adjust these expectations?
Having said that, since you already have a nice, VIP insulated box, why not go straight for an icebox conversion kit this time around?
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delezynski  OK Guys,
Please help out a simple guy here. I am looking to replace our refer unit in our Nor'Sea 27. I built in a Norcold unit more than a few years ago, (story and photos on my web site). I put in some super insulation and it has all been working well. BUT, it is now very old and I think I hear some strange sounds coming out of it. When I first put in the Norcold unit and connected it up, the running draw was a bit under 4 Amps (12 volt). It is now gone up to about 4.5+/-.
As of now, I think I am going to just put in a shelf and mount a portable box. That way, when it goes toes up, I can easily replace it. I MAY get two units, 1 to freeze, 1 to ref.
When I look at the stated power requirement for the Coleman unit, it states about 4 Amps, (40 to 48 Watts). When I look at a similar sized unit by Engel, it draws about 2.3 Amps (27~28 Watts). Also, the Engel unit automatically switches to the 110 Volt when it's connected. I LIKE that feature.
Our boat is small and I do NOT have a lot of real estate to fly solar panels. So, that small difference (1.7 Amp) is a BIG one for me.
Why would I select an item that draws 4 Amps over one that draws 2.3 Amps?
Greg
PS... I am NOT trying to start a food fight here! |