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Old 18-11-2014, 18:34   #16
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

Hi,
I would try first to change the knob. Inside the knob there is a little spring which get rusty and brake after a while.
Yvon
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Old 18-11-2014, 19:11   #17
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

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Originally Posted by jstevens View Post
Off the subject, but I just replaced my Force 10 with a new 3-burner unit.

I was faced with having to replace all 3 stove top burners and got a good price on a new unit so I went with it. Force 10 has fixed several of the problems with the old stove - including the oven door latch. It is now a positive latch. They also moved the large burner from the back of the stove top to the front, which I consider an improvement as I do most of my one-pot cooking on this burner. The burner ignition is now activated by a separate button rather than by just pressing in the burner knob. Now it takes two hands to light a burner - one to depress the burner knob and the other to depress the ignition button. The good thing is that during the 10 - 20 seconds you need hold the knob in until the thermcouple heats up the ignition is not continuing to spark on all three burners.

There were a few issues - all do to the fact that I got a good price on this stove because it was an open box excess inventory from Hunter Marine. Turns out it is a standard Euro stove which is 1-1/2" narrower than the standard NA stove - so it wasn't a drop-in replacement for my old stove, had to add some offsets for the gimball mounts. Also they changed the rail around the stove top. It is taller and thicker. That means I have to drop the gimball mounts about 1/2" so that my stove cover will still fit, and my old pot holders don't fit on the rail. Because it was an open box unit and cost about 3/5 the WM and Defender prices no pot holders were included. I think the NA stove also has the same rail change.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/...4_135325_6.jpg


John

Edited to add: Also the gimball lock is now on the bottom of the stove not near the top.
My stove is a little different....I twist the knob, then push it in, and light the burner. There is a non functioning toggle on the far right of the knob bar before the oven thermometer which I assume was once the sparker...if that makes sense.

I probably won't get back to the stove until Thursday, I did have time today to remove and clean the end of the thermocoupler which sits in the burner, but then ran into some other issues I had to deal with right away, and should be able to complete tomorrow. So, Thursday I should be able to "report back in" with what is going on with my old stove.

gunk
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Old 18-11-2014, 19:13   #18
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

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Originally Posted by sailing mike View Post
I had the same problem with my three burner stove..... Have a look at this Force 10 tech note, before even thinking about replacing the thermocouple. It could save you the money.


http://www.force10.com/files/documen...ech%20Note.pdf


best regards
Mike on s/v Captain O'Brien
Hey Mike, I can't get the link posted above to open, can you check it and repost it for me please?

Thanks!

gunk
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Old 19-11-2014, 07:30   #19
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Yvon.

Force 10 Tech Note

THERMOCOUPLE GROUNDING ISSUE
Scope:
Force 10 Ranges built between the years of 2001 and 2003

SYMPTOM:

The top burner on a Force 10 Galley Range does not stay on when the control valve is turned to the low setting or will not stay lit when the control knob is released.

THEORY OF OPERATION:

The Thermocouple relies on the connection between the thermocouple body and the burner cup to create a complete circuit.

CAUSE:

In some cases the connection point is not solid enough (due to corrosion or grease build up) to transmit current.

SOLUTION:

This can be fixed by cleaning up the connection. In addition a stainless steel star washer can be added to the connection point which helps bite into the burner body and the thermocouple to create a better connection.
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Old 19-11-2014, 11:32   #20
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

Granted the top burners are not the oven burner.


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Old 19-11-2014, 13:24   #21
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

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Originally Posted by Boatguy30 View Post
Huh, how much do the thermocouples cost? I am just curious since one went out on a top burner and I just bypassed it. Should maybe get a new one.
The thermocouple is there for a reason. An important reason, your life! DO NOT use that burner until you replace the thermocouple and undo whatever you did to bypass it.

The thermocouple is there to stop the gas flow if the flame goes out. Without it,, your boat could fill with gas and either smother you or explode and burn!

I agree with the others, the OP's thermocouple is likely defective. It needs to be replaced. Cost cannot be an issue; safety is the issue.

You can probably find a replacement at a shop that does appliance repair. Or, contact the manufacturer of the oven/stove.
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Old 19-11-2014, 13:31   #22
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

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Originally Posted by gunkylump View Post
My stove is a little different....I twist the knob, then push it in, and light the burner. There is a non functioning toggle on the far right of the knob bar before the oven thermometer which I assume was once the sparker........................
Have you checked the battery that works the spark ignition? It's not on all models but on mine the battery is on the lower right side on the inside of the case.
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Old 19-11-2014, 14:44   #23
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

The solenoid shut off breaker is right next to the stove and I have no ignition sources at all in that hull including no water pumps or motors of any kind. I do accept that thermocouples are an important safety feature, but they are also a major pain and I've had a couple of other older stoves that didn't have them.

Personal responsibility and all that I guess.
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Old 21-11-2014, 00:43   #24
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Re: Force 10 oven issue

Check the knob is depressing fully. Twice I've seen this problem.
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