As aquarian says, it all depends on how much you are willing to trust assistive equipement.
If you aren't planning on any serious offshore
, getting a roller furler
for the headsail would be fine. Offshore
I am ambivilant, I would personally skip it but the admiral may have the final say. Not an issue for you.
Don't get mainsail roller furling
, too many problems still. If you are going offshore I would install lazy jacks. If you are going to stay coastal a Stack pak may be preferred. Doyle originated them, a DIY kit is available thru Sailrite
Consider adding a removable forestay, intermediate shrouds and running backs for a staysail. With a hanked on staysail, I would be more comfortable with a roller furling
headsail. The staysail allows you to break up the jib
area, a low cut staysail combined with a high cut moderate headsail give you almost the area of a really large genoa
, but handling is a lot easier. You don't need to change sails
, just drop/raise/roller furl the ones you have. In light/moderate air both are up. A bit more wind
the staysail comes down. More and the staysail goes back up and the headsail is rolled/dropped. In really heavy air you would swap out the staysail for a storm staysail. Reefing of the main also occurs at various points too. In really light air both staysail and headsail are doused in favor of a drifter or chute depending on point of sail. The staysail rigging
provides more support for the mast
and redundancy. The forestay is also slightly inboard from the bow so marginally less bouncy in heavy air and there will be more room to work.
you want to use double jibs or an asymetrical spinnaker
on a roller furler
if you have the money
to afford one. A symetrical chute is to much work short handed.
Leading halyards aft to the cockpit
almost certainly goes to the cockpit
depending on how the sail is reefed and stowed, consideration has to be given to setting and dousing the lazy jacks. Reefing lines go where the halyard
Assuming the headsail is roller furled then cockpit is fine for the halyard.
Halyard for hanked on staysail should stay on the mast
If you are using a roller furling
chute, the spin halyard in the cockpit is fine. If you don't have the money
for that and are using drifter then you want the spinnaker
halyard on the mast.
Pole lifts, forguys and preventers should go to the cockpit.
For a larger boat (over 35' or so) an electrical windlass
really needs to have an effective manual backup with better than 12-1 mechanical advantage. If the windlass only has the mechanical advantage inherent to the length of the lever used for manual operation you need to have a chest high lever, not the waist high one that comes standard for horizontal axis windlasses. Even then you may not be getting much more than 10-1 advantage. For vertical axis windlasses, if there is no gearing to increase advantage the manual option will be a joke, you can't operate a really long winch handle effectively from the operating positions you might take. In general the smaller the boat the less mechanical advantage you can get away with for the manual backup. What ever you get electric or manual install chain stoppers for any rode
with significant length of chain (say more than twice the length of the boat) and install 2 to 4 oversized cleats
on the bow. The chain stoppers do 2 things, they releive the load from the windlass which is only designed for weighing loads, not anchoring
loads, and they allow you to use a block and tackly anchored at the mast to pull the chain in if the windlass goes kaput.
In really heavy weather
, underway or at anchor
, a larger boat is much harder for a single person to handle. In one of the Pardey books
they discussed the 1982 Cabo San Lucas debacle where 28 of 45 anchored boats were driven ashore. One of the observations was that boats over 36' with only a couple on board mostly couldn't cope well. Smaller boats did better short handed.
If you are going to do some coastal cruising a boat up to 40' might be workable. If you want to go offshore, even to the caribbeam I would suggest a boat 32-34'. If you are comfortable living small places you could get down to 27 or 28' but it would involve creative stowage for any long passages.
Consider berthing. You may be solo now but you may pick up crew along the way. You want at least one good berth for each offwatch crew, and a place to sit for the on-watch that doesn't disturb sleepers. Better is one good berth per crew plus a good seat because in a bouncy anchorage you will both be in the main cabin
and wanting to sleep. An excellent would be a pilot berth, very good would be a quarter berth, good would be a settee that has to be converted every night. Berths in an aft cabin
would also be good, the motion at the end of the boat could keep it from being very good. A dinette that takes more work and equipment to convert than a settee would likely be mediocre. The v-berth will be unusable underway or in a bouncy anchorage.
If you are going to go cruising, don't get a boat with a dinette with cool radiused corners, look great, but unless the radius's can be removed they kill your neck. On a pure liveaboard
, they are fine.
Personally I like quarter berths, they offer a marginally more private space, use the minimum of space in the main cabin and if you have 2 you can sleep in the leeward one without have to set lee clothes.
CAL 34 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
RANGER 33 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
CASCADE 29 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com
The best laid out boat in the low 30's I have seen is the
ALAJUELA 33 Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com