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#16 | |
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why it is hard.....
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everyone else in the marina is parked bow in, so I believe that with a combination of throttle and rudder it must not be too hard to get out. I just don't have the right combination! jc |
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#17 |
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Boat: Prout Manta 38' Catamaran - Sunspot Baby
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Is there room to do a 180 after you clear the slip? That might be the low hassle way.
George
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She took my address and my name Put my credit to shame Sunspot Baby, sure had a real good time Bob Seger |
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#18 | |
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Quote:
the problem is my driving skills. it is fairly narrow between the docks. everyone has suggested lines and backing in, however everyone else is bow in, which tells me it couldn't be too hard to get out. can you suggest a good site or book which concentrates on sailboats under power? thanks jc |
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#19 |
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Ok, my boat is a CCA style full keeler that backs horribly. I was having issues with backing and turning into the channel when the wind was across my finger. I found that by getting everything ready to go, checking for traffic and going full throttle for about two seconds to get her to run back, going to neutral with the rudder hard over, I can force the bow into the wind enough that when I'm halfway out the slip and go to forward, she'll swing right into the wind. While your boat's different, getting the burst and going to neutral as ya drift back will eliminate the prop walk.
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1961 Knutson K-35 Yawl Oh Joy |
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#20 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Chapman's has a good section on it. The physics is actually more complicated than you would think. Rudder placement and engine kick have different effects depending on whether or not you have way on.
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Fair Winds, Charlie Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness Joseph Conrad |
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#21 | |
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Quote:
thanks jc |
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#22 |
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Administrator
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Location: Nevis, West Indies
Boat: Island Packet 380 "The Belle of Virginia"
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Based on your diagram, what would work best for me is to have the rudder amidships or slightly to port while revving in reverse for a couple of seconds, as CharlieCobra suggested, then put it in neutral and smoothly put it over to port. The idea is to begin making way and getting some water flowing smoothly over the rudder, so it can do it's work when you turn the wheel to bring the stern toward the wind. If you "bang" the rudder over, it will act like a big brake and slow the boat way down.
Once you're in the fairway, the wind should begin bringing the bow down more than the stern. The boat should be slowing down, since you're in neutral. When the stern is almost to the other side of the fairway, turn the rudder all the way to starboard, and gun the engine in short bursts. That will force water into the prop, kicking the stern to port, but not so much as to gain any significant forward speed. You can "back and fill" like that several times if you need to, and the bow should finally work it's way downwind. Anyway, that's what works for my full-keel, fixed blade prop boat.
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Hud s/y The Belle of Virginia, IP 380 Nevis, West Indies |
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#23 |
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Park any way you can. Then, if you find bow first more convenient, turn the boat around by hand when it falls flat calm, in the middle of the night if neccessary.
Brent
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Brent Swain |
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#24 |
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Location: Aliso Viejo, CA
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First off, I don't think what everyone else does should determine whether you dock bow in or stern in. If it's your boat and slip, you can do what works for you. I sail out of Dana Point, CA and 90% are bow in, but some folks like to dock stern in. I charter and have to follow their rules, so I dock bow in.
I've been working on boat control under power and at low speeds for almost a year now. I have a down wind exit like what you illustrated. What I've found to work is using more power coming out of the slip in reverse so you can steer the boat once it's in the channel. I power out with the rudder slightly to port and gradually turn more to port and cut power back to idle once the bow is exiting the end of the slip and shift to neutral. This gets the stern up the channel a little bit and the bow starts to blow downwind. I then shift to forward, turn the wheel all the way to starboard, and apply power. If there's an instructor available or a sailing school, I would suggest going through this drill a number of times with someone aboard to help (or even better, on a school's boat or charter boat). It will make a lot more sense having it demonstrated versus reading about it. |
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#25 |
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Boat: 1914 Fantail M.Y. "Strathbelle"
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You can not always rely on what other boats are doing, they probably prop walk to port (more common than stbd).
I would imagine that tiller hard to stbd (rudder to port) and reverse should get you at least straight out of the slip. You will probably need to use a bit more speed than you are currently using (I know, it's scary). Then, at the last second and at the same time, tiller hard to port (rudder to stbd) and a blast of forward throttle (while you still have sternway) would start your spin clockwise. Normally the bow falls off faster than the stern so with the spin already started the wind should help you. If that works but doesn't quite turn you enough to head out... then after the sharp blast of forward power and full rudder (this should stop your sternway and start your clockwise spin) don't allow the boat to make headway. Instead you have to feel when the sternway stops and before headway begins, then hit reverse again for a second but don't actually go anywhere (just check your motion and maybe get a touch of sterway). Then do the blast forward again with full rudder. In fact after your initial run back out of the slip and your first blast with full rudder to port you should not need to move the rudder anymore because the last forward and reverse thrusts should be while sitting in place without head or sternway. Hope all that makes sense. Maybe practice this in a safer part of the marina. Good luck.
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Gene :^) 1914 Fantail Motor Yacht of Riveted Iron & Steel http://www.Strathbelle.com |
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#26 | |
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Quote:
how can I mark the wheel to know that the rudder is amidships? the wheel seems to go round more than one full turn. thanks jc |
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#27 | |
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great...
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jc |
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#28 |
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Registered User
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Boat: 1914 Fantail M.Y. "Strathbelle"
Posts: 78
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HUD3 and AVSKIPPER posted while I was typing. The idea of starting with less rudder when backing is good to help you gain sternway at first.
I learn something new everyday! I have a powerboat with similar handling of a sailboat. She's deep keeled, single prop, really long, and doesn't like to turn.
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Gene :^) 1914 Fantail Motor Yacht of Riveted Iron & Steel http://www.Strathbelle.com |
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#29 | |
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Administrator
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Location: Nevis, West Indies
Boat: Island Packet 380 "The Belle of Virginia"
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Quote:
The "easy" thing is to center the rudder (visually check it) and wrap a piece of electrical tape around the "King Spoke", the one pointing straight up. The "elegant" thing to do is to weave a Turk's Head knot around the wheel at the intersection with the King Spoke.
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Hud s/y The Belle of Virginia, IP 380 Nevis, West Indies |
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#30 |
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Location: Long Beach, CA
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Come on Baby, Let's Do the Twist
Alameda,
If Hud is correct, and your prop is offset to port, this explains the tendency of the stern to want to pull to the right as you back under power at low speed, which is the opposite phenomenon most of us experience. This design diference is likely to explain the confusion among the responses you are receiving in this thread. I am going to assume this is the case, and my advice is based on that assumption. You can confirm an offset prop position with a visual inspection. Understanding the physics is fundamental to arriving at a satisfactory solution. Here's my step-by-step:
You want to build reverse speed quickly, then manuever without power: the rudder must initially be positioned amidships, not causing drag, or you'll just plow back, & the prop will pull the stern to starboard. How far to back out under power is the real question: you must build enough momentum so that you can shift the transmission into neutral and manuever without prop-effect. Your only limit is the brightwork on the boats opposite you in the fairway. As long as you don't touch them, you can use an extra second or two to power back. If you over-power and are going to hit them, you can always shift into forward to check your reverse momentum and avoid a call to your insurance agent. Good luck. Practice makes more nearly perfect.
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s/y Eagle's Wings— Catalina 30 MkII Last edited by CaptainJeff; 02-07-2008 at 14:15.. Reason: dangling modifier: what's it to you? |
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