Hurricane Preparation in South Florida

[Dave22q]

Originally Posted by TacomaSailor

We just moved our 40' boat to SW Florida from the US West Coast. I know a lot about storm prep at anchor (we've been thru 3-named storms), and at a floating dock (many 60-knot wind events during 20-years in Puget Sound). But, I know nothing about securing the boat to fixed pilings and docks.

We are in a marina with short fixed docks and pilings. There is only one 12' long dock on one side of the boat and no dock on the other side. The boat is situated between six pilings (three on each side), none which have cleats or any other device to restrain or attach mooring lines.

The bow of the boat extends 6' past the outside most piling so there is no way to secure the bow with a line extending forward. I assume I will need to put out two anchors in V to provide a line pulling from ahead of the boat.

I've spent a lot of time working out the dock line arrangement but am stumped on one issue:

How to keep the dock lines from coming off the top of the pilings in the storm surge?

Yesterday at high tide with a strong SSW wind blowing the harbor water level was within 3" of over topping the dock. At that time the top of each piling was only 4-feet (I did measure it) above water level.

And... of much more concern to me - the boat's on deck cleats were less than 2' from the top of the pilings.

If, during a named storm, there were any storm surge coupled with a SW to W wind the boat's deck cleats would be above the top of the pilings.

1) Should I be concerned about the lines from the boat to the pilings coming off the top of the pilings in a storm surge and wave action?

2) How can I attach the dock lines to the pilings to prevent from coming off the top of the pilings?

3) Should I move the boat to a dock where the outer most pilings are forward (outside) of the bow?

You generally want to secure your boat with spring lines, the longer the better. In my marina I secure to the piles on the far side of the empty adjacent slip to get extra length. If you tied to the piles with several wraps you should be fine even if the piles are topped. The key is enough scope so the pull is far from vertical, hence spring lines. Bow and stern lines to the dock and an anchor need to be sized for maximum surge. Simple right triangle calculation will determine if the dock lines are long enough to not pull you against the dock at peak water and the lines are long enough to not be fighting each other..

[dgz3]

David, your plan is well thought out. You have covered all the basics. I have used the anchor across the canal scheme to good effect. And i wouldn't worry about emergency Services. They won't be on the water during the storm. They don't even roll the trucks once the winds hit 45 mph. Other idiots are another matter. But it's common practice to string lines across canals. Most people know that if they want to move, they have to do it early for that reason. I would not rig floats. It's an invitation to easy theft. or even someone pissed that you dared block the canal an hour before a hurricane which is when they planned to move.
Setting them in advance and then slacking them is a good idea . And i would go ahead and set them as firmly as possible with your boat engine, dinghy, or at least deck winches. The bottom is likely to be mucky and soft the first couple feet and they will drag a bit until they dig in. Maybe even rig them a day or so ahead of time. Don't forget to take into account the slope of the bottom. You may not actually want to run them all the way to shallow water on the opposite bank.
It's unlikely your cross canal neighbors will permit you to tie to their pilings. I have seen some nasty arguments about this. To the point of cops being called. Worth a try, though. Especially if they might like to run some lines of their own. And your dock owner will let them....
Your goal should be to be done before everyone else even starts. Then stay till the last possible minute, and return asap. Thats the only way to minimize the surge issue. By minimizing the time window. And you will be shocked at how many people will do nothing at all. Their boats and gear flying around will be a hazard to you. And the longer you wait, the more other people's actions will limit your options.
As for the dinghy, can you lash it onshore anywhere? Above any possible flooding levels? If not, I would take it home. That won't be much more trouble than deflating it and turning it over on your foredeck. You have a big boat. lots of windage. The last thing you need is more. Plus, that way you KNOW you have a dinghy....
Changing water levels from surge remain your biggest issue. Unfortunately the only way to manage that is to be there to adjust your lines. Otherwise, the longest lines you can rig to the farthest away pilings you can get to will help. If all you have are pilings right next to your boat, it will be just about impossible to rig lines to accommodate an 8 foot change in water level and keep your boat off the pilings at lower levels. Fenders are about impossible to keep in place against a piling. I would suggest making up fender boards in advance. A pressure treated 2x12 and a pair of good sized fenders lashed together will stay in place. And the board will survive contact with the pilings.

A useful exercise is to just look at your boat, and try to visualize what is going to happen to it and your lines as it goes up 3, 5, 8 feet or more. And that surge may hang around for a day or even several. Flooding of low lying streets may impede your return access, as well.
Idea: is there a boat ramp or even a canal bank near your home that you can launch and recover your dinghy from to get to and from your boat without having to use the roads or bridges? Will there be an evacuation order? If so, the cops may not let you in for days, depending on the damage. But if you have your dinghy, and you know the canals...

There are few anti chafing systems I have seen that will work in hurricane conditions for eight or nine hours. So be sure to carefully evaluate your line routings. Most fairleads, especially where lines make sharp bends around them to the cleats, will simply eat up lines in short order. You may want to bypass them and run directly to the cleats. Don't forget the base of your mast, cockpit winches, and windlass as strong points you can tie to. And don't overlook trees, telephone poles, guard rails, etc, as places to run longer lines to. The ideal situation is to have a spider web of 8 lines or more run to strong points at all angles at least 20 feet away. Longer lines minimize the change in angle as the boat moves up and down and provide more shock absorption. Of course, ideal is seldom achievable, so you do the best you can.
Now might be a good time to evaluate your cleat/fairlead situation. Most cleats are woefully undersized for hurricane duty. They just aren't big enough to accommodate the multiple lines (and thicker lines) that you will want to put on them. Oversized backing plates and bolts will help. This is a project you can undertake a cleat or two at a time in advance. You'll never hear yourself saying as the first 50 mph bands come in, "Damn, those massive cleats I installed are just too big! I wish I had some little ones secured through a 1/4 inch of fiberglass with some dinky 1/4-20 hardware store bolts. "

Tacomasailor; you need to move. Your boat would be better anchored out or tied off up a canal somewhere. Unfortunately, there are just too many boats and not enough space for that down there. So your best option is to sign up now for a hurricane haul out service, And then make sure you get there at the earliest possible moment. It's the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy. Otherwise, consider permanently relocating your boat to a safer slip.
Another plan I'm surprised more people don't opt for is to simply sail away! Most of the time, if forecast conditions are good, we have five days notice. Three days of reasonable accuracy. You could be 500 miles away by then...

Whats most difficult to predict is that 20 to 30 mile accuracy window that just can't be predicted until a couple hours before impact. That 30 miles can mean the difference between 70 mph gusts and 120 mph sustained. Unfortunately, you're out of time by then. So you have to rig for the worst early and hope for the best.

And don't forget to check with your dock owner/manager. Many places will not even let you remain after a warning goes up. Some insist you leave when the watch is announced. It may be in your contract if you have one.

[powsmias]

Originally Posted by Davidhoy

So hurricane season starts soon, and those of us living in affected areas need to be ready for it. I think I have a fairly decent idea of what to do, and went through 3 hurricanes with my previous boat, a Hunter 30. Now I have a bigger boat, in a different location, so want to be sure I am ready.

Obvious things are already planned. Doubling/tripling the dock lines, chafe protection, removing sails, dodger, dinghy and anything else to reduce windage, etc. Ensure batteries are fully charged, bilge pumps are working, disconnect shore power. Seal hatches, portlights and vents with duct tape.

My boat is docked on the south fork of the New River in Fort Lauderdale, quite far upriver from the ocean, so generally a good location from a storm protection perspective. My boat is on the river itself, rather than one of the side canals. That means I will have to wait until the bridges get locked down before I can complete my prep. I plan to put two anchors on almost the opposite side of the river - an oversize Rocna, and a Fortress FX-55. The rodes will be left slack and lying on the bottom to allow traffic to go by, and then pulled up once the bridges lock down and there's no more boat traffic on the river. The plan is to keep the boat as far away from the dock as is reasonably possible. The extra length of dock lines will also help to accommodate any storm surge. Obviously I will need to be quick to recover the anchors after the storm passes, due to the high traffic location right on the river. Anyone know what the river bottom is like in that area?

What is the best way to store the dinghy? I have a 10ft RIB, and clearly keeping it on the davits is *NOT* a good idea. Lashed upside down on the foredeck? Or lug it home in the back of my truck and store in my garage? I will need the dinghy to deploy and recover the anchors, so taking it home may not be the best idea.

Any other advice would be much appreciated. I am putting my whole plan in writing, and want to be comprehensive. Obviously no plan will be perfect, and no amount of preparation can account for a storm of sufficient strength. I just want to do everything reasonably possible to protect my boat and others around me.

Regards,
David.

Not an authority on this, not even close but read somewhere that some sink the dinghy and weigh it down to keep it on bottom. good luck

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by dgz3

Now might be a good time to evaluate your cleat/fairlead situation. Most cleats are woefully undersized for hurricane duty. They just aren't big enough to accommodate the multiple lines (and thicker lines) that you will want to put on them. Oversized backing plates and bolts will help. This is a project you can undertake a cleat or two at a time in advance. You'll never hear yourself saying as the first 50 mph bands come in, "Damn, those massive cleats I installed are just too big! I wish I had some little ones secured through a 1/4 inch of fiberglass with some dinky 1/4-20 hardware store bolts. "

Do you think these cleats are big enough? ;-) One of the previous owners installed massive cleats bow, midships and stern. I think you could probably lift the boat with lines attached to these things...

-David

[hellosailor]

David-
If you take your dink home, you may not be able to get it (or yourself) back to the boat for two to seven days. Look up Hurricane Andrew, this is what you can expect. Look up Wilma, a much weaker storm. Look up Matthew, last year it hit up the coast as a Cat4 and it missed Fort Liquordale only because it zigged east instead of making landfall a day prior. It was expected as a Cat4 in your area.
FLL only has a hurricane construction standard to Cat3, I think. As does Broward and Miami-Dade. One it hits Cat4, you can expect roofs and walls and trees and rolled-over vehicles on the streets, they will be impassible until heavy equipment has been able to arrive and at work for at least 48 hours. So if the dink goes home, expect it to stay home.
On intentionally obstructing a navigable waterway...to traffic and rescue craft? Forget the marine patrol, the USCG will pick a hefty number for the summons. Or, someone will come down the river anyway, foul in your lines, tear them and your boat lose, and sue you for the damage to their boat as well. Not a good concept.

I think the alternative is to get some heavy fenders, or perhaps build a marge "fender mat" out of cargo netting and old tires, and then place that padding between your boat and your seawall, and strap your boat in tight to your seawall. Whatever chafe or damage you take from motion, you'll have to deal with.

The alternative would be to book a spot at one of the marinas further in, that offer hurricane storage, or some other more secure spot.

[zboss]

Originally Posted by s/v Moondancer

David,

You will be very unpopular with the emergency service boats if you block the river with your anchor lines.

In Coral Gables waterway during hurricane Andrew the police boat was unable to get to an emergency because of lines across a canal. Blocking the New River would be very antisocial. Locking the bridges down does not stop power boats!

The railroad bridge does... its only 3 or 4 feet or so above the waterline at low tide

[UNCIVILIZED]

- Survival kit in backpack, both on boat, & in truck, in case you get stuck in either.
- Rapid deployment kits of spare long lines.
- Short chain pieces along with lines with thimbles & shackles for use on rough or moving surfaces, like pilings.
- Post list of emergency info on Navsta, including contact phone #'s, actions etc. Also list of locations of all though hulls, cockpit drains, & bilge pumps.
- Bolt cutters, just in case, for chain or cables. Though in a pinch some types of flares work.

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by s/v Moondancer

David,

You will be very unpopular with the emergency service boats if you block the river with your anchor lines.

In Coral Gables waterway during hurricane Andrew the police boat was unable to get to an emergency because of lines across a canal. Blocking the New River would be very antisocial. Locking the bridges down does not stop power boats!

I spoke with a sergeant with the Fort Lauderdale Marine Unit and he confirmed what you said, Phil. No lines across, or anchors in, the river. Anything obstructing traffic on the river, even after the bridges are locked down, may be removed.

Now I need plan B - fortunately I have a pair of pilings on the river side of my boat, they just won't spring me very far from the dock. Perhaps a pair of rolling strops around the pilings with a relatively short nylon line to the boat? I already have the strops - basically a piece of wire rope with rollers on it that will slide up and down the pilings - and the pilings are pretty tall.

-David

[lesterbutch]

Originally Posted by hobopacket

I think your plan is good David. Hate to loose those anchors, be sure to get quickly after storm.

I think take the dink home. Safe in garage.

You on a floating dock?

Air show was great by the way, perfect conditions. Sorry you couldn't make it!

What makes you think your garage is safe in a hurricane? It is not unusual to find nothing but trash remaining after a high category storm! That means houses and garages, GONE!

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by lesterbutch

What makes you think your garage is safe in a hurricane? It is not unusual to find nothing but trash remaining after a high category storm! That means houses and garages, GONE!

You're exaggerating a bit, most homes is South Florida have impacts doors and windows, and specially strengthened garage doors. Mine certainly does. But, Safety is relative in a hurricane. Anything over a cat 3 and it's a crap-shoot. Still arguably safer for the dink in the garage than in a flood zone.

[Snore]

Sorry guys--- unless you either live there (and can prove it) or have a relevant government ID, the odds of you getting to most canal areas is slim. They will be locked down to prevent looters from entering an abandoned area that will likely be littered with down trees and power lines.

Double your lines, strip off the canvas shut all seacocks and make sure the insurance is paid. Do not plan on seeing the boat for 4-5 days after the storm.

My boat has been through MANY storms doing just as I said and even though I had access to the boat, it was fine. Biggest fear was the coconuts on the trees!

[lesterbutch]

Originally Posted by Davidhoy

You're exaggerating a bit, most homes is South Florida have impacts doors and windows, and specially strengthened garage doors. Mine certainly does. But, Safety is relative in a hurricane. Anything over a cat 3 and it's a crap-shoot. Still arguably safer for the dink in the garage than in a flood zone.

Did you happen to go to South Florida following Andrew? I think not, there was miles of debris fields with occasional surviving houses! The detestation was mind boggling. Cat fives are rare but you can't discount their awesome power! Err on the safe side when one of these storms threatens. I was involved in hurricane research for several years and you underestimate them at your peril!

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by lesterbutch

Did you happen to go to South Florida following Andrew? I think not, there was miles of debris fields with occasional surviving houses! The detestation was mind boggling. Cat fives are rare but you can't discount their awesome power! Err on the safe side when one of these storms threatens. I was involved in hurricane research for several years and you underestimate them at your peril!

Did you actually read what I wrote? I specially stated that anything over a cat 3 is a crap-shoot. But if you just throw in the towel without even trying to secure your boat or home, then you have nobody but yourself to blame.

[lesterbutch]

Originally Posted by Davidhoy

Did you actually read what I wrote? I specially stated that anything over a cat 3 is a crap-shoot. But if you just throw in the towel without even trying to secure your boat or home, then you have nobody but yourself to blame.

Yes, I did read what you wrote, you talk about "impact resistance" and hurricane "resistant" products! They only mean something if your house survives! In many storms, you can go retrieve your impact resistant windows from the debris field!

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by lesterbutch

Yes, I did read what you wrote, you talk about "impact resistance" and hurricane "resistant" products! They only mean something if your house survives! In many storms, you can go retrieve your impact resistant windows from the debris field!

Clearly not! And nothing you have written has actually contributed to this thread, just you expressing unrelated opinions. Of course nothing is ever hurricane proof. But, as I said before, if you take the attitude that you're not going to prepare because it's pointless, then you will get what you deserve. Now please go away...