Fire Hose as Chafe Guard

[imagine2frolic]

I use firehose on the bollards, and cleats on the pier. I was able to run the line between the rubber, and outside material. This leaves 3 layers laying on the concrete, and one layer above the line to allow water to come in.......i2f

[s/v 'Faith']

Originally Posted by GordMay

.... Accordingly, where practical, I recommend locating cleats as close to fairleads as will allow comfortable line work - or better yet, replacing fairleads with cleats (when possible).....

Me too Gord;

[s/v Jedi]

Faith: done 100% correct. Also, the line is done right: one full wrap around the base, one cross wrap (half a figure eight only) plus a second locking cross wrap to complete the number eight. Out of every 10 cleats I see, less than one have it correct.

ciao!
Nick.

[barnakiel]

That picture - where did you get it from ??? Indeed - this is the way to do it. For a long time I thought I was the only one to do it korrekt ...

Yeah - the way you can see it being done can be a tru shokker - esp some marina staff tries and reinvents the wheel ;-))

b.

[cabo_sailor]

One of my pet peeves. I just hate it when I see someone has macramayed their boat to the dock.

Rich

[Jmolan]

I will try to find the source. Came from a hurricane symposium. Any chafe gear that did not breath would be subject to heat and accelerated breakage. Maybe in here

http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/sym...WhitePaper.pdf

[bstreep]

I posed the firehose question to Practical Sailor a year ago. It was their feeling that using the rubber would contribute to heating of the line.

For our regular use, the Admiral makes sleeves out of scrap sunbrella, doubled. We burn a hole in it, and then use a small piece of line to secure it between the strands. They last about 6 months on the heavily strained docklines, and are now over a year old on those that get little strain.

[KJThomas]

Best is to site your cleats, wherever possible, so the lines do not go through fairleads and have a direct pull without anything to chafe on.

[thinwater]

The problem with hose in extreme conditions (huricane) is that the rubber liner prevents water from reaching the hose and cooling it. This is a problem with hose in general.

You can get fire hose material without the liner, which is great stuff. (amazon)

You can also get tough stuff from Chafepro. Very similar, but better. It is all about the weave.

And don't forget tubular climbing webbing. I've been using it for over 30 years. Easier to handle than heavy guards (more flexible to fit the chocks more easily) and available in more manageable sizes to fit smaller chocks. The 1" fits very nicely over 7/16-inch line, even extending on the cleat.

[jo_sail]

Application with tubular climbing webbing, polyamid, e.g. X-TUBE 25 mm Tubular Webbings, on 22 m of anchor snubber made from 12 mm 3-strand polyamid. The webbing is quite snug and it has cost some time to fit or slowly milk the webbing down the 3-strand. But at the same time, it will nicely stay in place without a lot of additional fix needed. I used 2.5 m of tubular webbing to provide chafe protection on the line at the bow on one end, leaving 1.5 m without webbing for the very end and a cleat knot. Because the tubular webbing sleve is both long and snug, the final position of the knot is quite flexible. Make sure the location of chafe will still sit well inside the 2.5 m of webbing.

The other end has a figure 9 knot and about 0.3 m of webbing to protect the tip of the eye and increase its diameter a bit, so that it can safely be fixed with a clove hitched long soft shackle to the anchor chain.