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Old 14-09-2009, 07:22   #16
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I use firehose on the bollards, and cleats on the pier. I was able to run the line between the rubber, and outside material. This leaves 3 layers laying on the concrete, and one layer above the line to allow water to come in.......i2f
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Old 14-09-2009, 09:16   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
.... Accordingly, where practical, I recommend locating cleats as close to fairleads as will allow comfortable line work - or better yet, replacing fairleads with cleats (when possible).....
Me too Gord;

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Old 14-09-2009, 09:38   #18
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Faith: done 100% correct. Also, the line is done right: one full wrap around the base, one cross wrap (half a figure eight only) plus a second locking cross wrap to complete the number eight. Out of every 10 cleats I see, less than one have it correct.

ciao!
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Old 14-09-2009, 13:04   #19
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That picture - where did you get it from ??? Indeed - this is the way to do it. For a long time I thought I was the only one to do it korrekt ...

Yeah - the way you can see it being done can be a tru shokker - esp some marina staff tries and reinvents the wheel ;-))

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Old 14-09-2009, 13:32   #20
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One of my pet peeves. I just hate it when I see someone has macramayed their boat to the dock.

Rich
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Old 14-09-2009, 15:20   #21
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Info somewhere

I will try to find the source. Came from a hurricane symposium. Any chafe gear that did not breath would be subject to heat and accelerated breakage. Maybe in here

http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/sym...WhitePaper.pdf
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Old 14-09-2009, 17:25   #22
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I posed the firehose question to Practical Sailor a year ago. It was their feeling that using the rubber would contribute to heating of the line.

For our regular use, the Admiral makes sleeves out of scrap sunbrella, doubled. We burn a hole in it, and then use a small piece of line to secure it between the strands. They last about 6 months on the heavily strained docklines, and are now over a year old on those that get little strain.
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