Originally Posted by tsanni
It seems like a good deal, but I don't really have a reference point. Boat is $1200, motor $500. Does that seem in line?
I can only offer a little bit on this, as I was in a similar place (minus access to the father with such great skills) about this time last year. I have since come to realize many things, however.
First, if the vessel you find is in great shape, that is a winning strike.
If the vessel is fully inspectable and trailerable (and the PO will part with the trailer itself as part of the deal) that is another strike for the win column.
If you have a legit title to the vessel you purchase
, another positive point.
If the rigging
is in shape and mounted
, another positive note is played.
If the sails
are there, and are NEW or in very good shape, another benefit that is directly relative to the age and condition versus the cost of new sails
If the hull
is not a crazed gelcoat
shell with flakes knocked off the laminate here and there below or above the waterline and the keel
is in good shape, and the keel bolt change to stainless has been made already, you have another good thing going.
If you can go on a test sail, and EXTENSIVE ONE, with the current
owner who can assist you in learning
the ropes for that afternoon, so to speak, another good thing. You may even get a friend out of the deal, something of real value, but that cannot increase the cost of the vessel beyond it's price
to someone else, if that makes sense.
If the engine
is gas powered and there is room someplace for a fuel cell
on the deck
and it can be safely securely fastened in place without interacting with the rigging
or the sails, another win.
If the cabin
top, hatches, ports
, and chain plate
mounts don't leak into the interior
, a good thing.
post should not be bent!
should not be chopped off.
The bilge pump
should work and a demonstration IS called for, regardless of what the seller says if he/she wants to sell you this or any other vessel. It takes only a few seconds to check this.
The lights should be in proper places and should all work.
connections within the interior
must function properly and be easily located at a fused and switched distribution location.
Any lack of fulfillment of the above is grounds for a reduction in fair market value of a boat. There is also a certain school
of thought that considers lack of any wiring
or rigging whatever makes a boat more useful for them because they wanted to radically change these systems, but I doubt most people, and even more specifically, whether anyone new to this would want a boat that is in a severely rough state.
It may float, but if it is a stripped shell, or even a partially damaged one in some way, the 22 foot sailboat is easily a pain to take possession of, let alone pay for. Consider the cost of rewiring, new sails, lighting
, ventilation and hatch/port repair or replacements
issues, halyards, mast
tabernacle or step problems, rudder
issues, or other things that are detectable with even minor inspection
both in and out of the water can far exceed the $1500 you have been considering.
Likewise, the engine issue is a big deal. The problem with electric
motors is that they require electricity to function. You do not state whether there is means to generate electricity on board, so to reliably count on a trolling motor, you will need to add a deep cycle battery
(or two), a means of charging
them, and a place to mount them must be considered. Those batteries are often over $100 each, even for the Walmart versions. Solar panels
are a solution, but allow for that in your estimates.
is required, along with rode
for it, be that chain or an anchor
line that has the flexibility required for the purpose. Fortunately, Walmart carries that line with an eye thimble in it, and a couple anchor options for you if they are not already on the boat. Walmart carries fenders too. It pays to have a few, at least four. You can get them for danged near or even free too if you keep an eye out at a marina or at a marina repair yard (where they are often tossed into a rubbish pile and are free for asking or perhaps a six-pack, though the fenders may be ugly or stained - it beats scarring your hull
, does it not?)
The $1200 boat and $500 trolling motor can easily add up to far more than you expect if these other issues are a problem. The HP of the outboard is a key feature in its price
. A trolling motor for that price may not be a good deal at all, especially as it is used and therefore outside warranty to a second (or later) owner. Also, can you get parts
for that trolling motor locally, and how do you get the thing serviced if something goes wrong?
A new non-furling
plain Dacron main and jib
sail for my 27 foot Hunter
(1978) cost about $700 and $850 dollars US respectively. And that is the CHEAPEST costs I could find to date for these sails. I am forced to stick with the worn ones that came with the boat currently, and hope I can keep them patched until a better situation presents itself. On the plus side, you may be able to locate sails on eBay or Craig's List
for your boat size. I see them now and then, but not as often for mine. Get your measurements from your current
mast and rigging setup to select your sails, then you can see what those costs will be.
For cruising, the sail selection is likely along the lines of my costs (probably close to $550 and $650 respectively (best case) for new cruising sails, plus shipping
if any is required), race
sails can be far more (but you don't need them I should think, at this time). However, I have seen folks claim they used last season's racing
sails for cruising. No idea how that works out, though, averaged over lots of folks who do that.
I do know that cruising sails are often used for several years, so are pretty durable, if not the latest tech available. At least they tend to be cheaper, new for new.
in the boat have no value relative to the cost of the boat, really, because there are lots of ways to replace them, but few ways to repair them after all this time. They are a nice bonus in other words, but don't let them dictate the value of the vessel, because frankly, the people I have spoken with in the industry could care less (like carpet installation
in a selling home, the new occupants are going to want something different anyway, so the sellers may just throw something in there to have something in there, mine don't even fit!).
You can make most other things work, and use ice coolers for refrigeration
at first, and learn a ton with that vessel size with less hassle than a larger boat brings, so if all looks great and the price seems reasonable considering condition and options installed (only those that you actually want and think you will actually have use for), you may have a winner.
I have run into most of these things on my own boat, by the way, and the rest on the power boat
I used to have. The things on my current boat are pestering me greatly right now.