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Old 25-10-2008, 12:11   #16
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Mind posting a picture of your setup?


it has to be rotated...sorry
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Old 25-10-2008, 12:38   #17
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Anyway there it is.
Its 10 inches by ten inches by 14 inches
welded 3/8 plate steel there is an ash box and a screen which take up the lower half of the stove.There is a circular damper on the lower left of the door handle.Behind the stove is copper covered fired board.The sides and top are aluminum covered fired board.There is a Selkirk collar to the thru deck chimney collar.Which means we fabricated a circular piece of steel in which the stove pipe runs through , a double walled chimney if you like.
the stove sits on a thin piece of Alluminum grating to disperse the heat from the legs of the stove.4 Tiles are set in front of the stove.There is a notched fiddle around the top of the stove that will hold a frypan steady to 15 degrees without spilling.
My only regret was only making the stovepipe collar 3 inches , should be 4 , it needs to be cleaned more often.On the outside is the chimney thrudeck with a fabricated circular ring of Honduran mahogany off an old Chris Craft underneath it instaed of the rubber gasket they supplied.
Total costs were
300 for the stove
60 for the 3ft section of stove pipe
110 for the chimney thrudeck
90 for the stainless cap
50 bucks in hardware
I had to travel 60 miles to find 6 - 10 inch 1024 bolts
A buddy scrounged the alluminum and fire board and I found the copper.
About 15-20 hrs to fabricate materials and install.
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Old 25-10-2008, 12:47   #18
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there will be wood heat and propane cook anyway

There will be wood heat on board (small wood heater to replace kerosene heater see:Rover08 on Flickr - Photo Sharing! and I am able to keep the two burner propane stove top and canister sea-swing for quick and warm weather cooking as wel as install the diesel (or wood) cookstove/oven.
What I am trying to decide is should/could the cookstove be converted to wood and use and unsueably short length of wood (otherwise refered to as free/scrap) though creating a certain bit of hastle and mess. Or diesel which in addition to gettign the stove functional, I'll jave to install fuel source, plumb lines, filters and possibly a low pressure pump. I will have fuel source that is easier to deal with allbeit more expensive and will plumb in cross over as extra enginge fuel.
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Old 25-10-2008, 13:13   #19
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Wow!! if you built all that including the stove in 20 hours ..I'm flying you out here to work on my boat...That's amazing

Very nice job.

Many Years ago when I was sort of a free spirit in the hay day of my youth..I purchased an old home built camper to put on the back of my 3/4 ton 52 Chevy PU..I bought a very thin walled non air tight stove and mounted it in it...I'm telling you all I had to do was start a bit of newspaper and some cedar kindling in that thing and it would burn you out of there...I don't think I ever had a real wood stove type fire in it as it would have just cooked the place...I have looked online for that cheap type of stove but haven't found what I had yet..The nice thing about the thin metal stoves is the heat transfer is almost immediate and thus so is the cool down if you snuff the fire...but they definitely would not last as long...I think I paid 35.00 for it brand new in 1976.

I realize this is not the safest thing in regards to fire brick lining and all that jazz but were not talking about burning cord wood here..just small bits and chunks gathered hither and yon...That old stove I had had a 6" flue but I'm sure it would work just fine with 3 or 4.

On another note all the Dickerson stoves have a double walled flue to draw in outside air for their operation and a sealed firebox so their propane models are as dry as wood would be......we just like to smell a little wood smokey that's all...albeit maybe not very yachtingly correct.

Wolf...if it were me and this was just for cooking and not heating Id go with diesel or propane...much easier to control the heat and its basically instant on or off done deal.
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Old 25-10-2008, 13:41   #20
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Personally, I would not try to convert the diesel stove to wood-burning. I don't think there is enough safety margin. I would either see about getting the diesel up and running to specs, or sell it and get a Navigator Halibut for cooking with wood or coal:

HALIBUT COOKSTOVE INFO & SPECS.

They are not particularly large and look very good from the ones I have seen when I visited the foundary where they are made.
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Old 25-10-2008, 14:14   #21
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Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
Wow!! if you built all that including the stove in 20 hours ..I'm flying you out here to work on my boat...That's amazing

Very nice job.

Many Years ago when I was sort of a free spirit in the hay day of my youth..I purchased an old home built camper to put on the back of my 3/4 ton 52 Chevy PU..I bought a very thin walled non air tight stove and mounted it in it...I'm telling you all I had to do was start a bit of newspaper and some cedar kindling in that thing and it would burn you out of there...I don't think I ever had a real wood stove type fire in it as it would have just cooked the place...I have looked online for that cheap type of stove but haven't found what I had yet..The nice thing about the thin metal stoves is the heat transfer is almost immediate and thus so is the cool down if you snuff the fire...but they definitely would not last as long...I think I paid 35.00 for it brand new in 1976.

I realize this is not the safest thing in regards to fire brick lining and all that jazz but were not talking about burning cord wood here..just small bits and chunks gathered hither and yon...That old stove I had had a 6" flue but I'm sure it would work just fine with 3 or 4.

On another note all the Dickerson stoves have a double walled flue to draw in outside air for their operation and a sealed firebox so their propane models are as dry as wood would be......we just like to smell a little wood smokey that's all...albeit maybe not very yachtingly correct.

Wolf...if it were me and this was just for cooking and not heating Id go with diesel or propane...much easier to control the heat and its basically instant on or off done deal.

sorry about that it was 20 hrs to install and at least another ten to weld the stove
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Old 25-10-2008, 14:28   #22
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Personally, I would not try to convert the diesel stove to wood-burning. I don't think there is enough safety margin. I would either see about getting the diesel up and running to specs, or sell it and get a Navigator Halibut for cooking with wood or coal:

HALIBUT COOKSTOVE INFO & SPECS.

They are not particularly large and look very good from the ones I have seen when I visited the foundary where they are made.

My diesl cookstove looks very similar to the Halibut, top and rails are almost dentical, but has stainless sides.
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Old 25-10-2008, 14:28   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astrid View Post
Personally, I would not try to convert the diesel stove to wood-burning. I don't think there is enough safety margin. I would either see about getting the diesel up and running to specs, or sell it and get a Navigator Halibut for cooking with wood or coal:

HALIBUT COOKSTOVE INFO & SPECS.

They are not particularly large and look very good from the ones I have seen when I visited the foundary where they are made.

My diesel cookstove looks very similar to the Halibut, top and rails are almost identical, but has stainless sides.
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Old 25-10-2008, 16:58   #24
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What make is your diesel stove?
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Old 25-10-2008, 20:19   #25
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I am not really that comfortable with propane on board espescially with an oven, what I have now is a 2-burner propane cook top (no oven). I have made room for it so I can install a diesel cook stove w/oven (which I traded a bunch of otherwise useless stuff for) and not loose any counter space (I'll actually be gaining space). I will probably continue with my original plan and install the cook stove as a diesel. I have a 3 gallon tank, place to put it with deck fill, space in my engine room for filters and what not, and enough room in my lazzarette along with everything else) for 4 Gerry cans of bio-diesel.
I will still have a small wood heater between the main cabin and forward cabin. 1gal. shop-vac works great for removing *cold* ashes & there are otherwise unuseble spaces that can be used for wood storage.

The termites and powder post beetles will love you!
Stick with propane and a sniffer.
Steve B. (ten miles to your Southeast)
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Old 25-10-2008, 20:38   #26
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Bugs and such are certainly a problem if you plan on using scrap wood. All kinds of hitchhikers can come aboard. The other thing you need to think about is using only seasoned hardwood for fuel. Pine and teak for instance create a lot of soot and creosote which will need need the attention of a chimney sweep on a regular basis. Otherwise you could wind up with a chimney fire.

One thought though, if you get a Navigator halibut stove, it can burn coal as well as wood, getting around the bug problem, and you can get a drop in two burner alcohol unit for summers when you don't need the extra heat.

I have thought about a wood stove but for the time being I will stick with my diesel fuel stove for now for serious cooking and baking and microwave for quick meals..
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Old 06-11-2008, 14:58   #27
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give up wood heat?

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Best argument against I have heard so far...were still hashing it out ourselves...wife loves wood heat..me to..our boat might just be to small for the mess of it all though..still its a hard idea to let go of.
I keep a good supply of coal on board (.22 cents a pound if you buy over 500 Lbs. @ Star ice & fuel) for when my back is too blown to cut fire wood. I have an Avalon E.P.A. certified airtight woodstove in the saloon (aft down) and an Olympic diesel oven in the pilothouse/galley (midship up) that I converted to wood/coal. I love the drying heat. I cook in the summers on a two burner propane I put on top of the Olympic or out side on the big BarB. CAUTION! Do Not burn coal in a stove that is not designed for it unless you have made appropriate modifications. I wont give details because I do not want anyones modifications on my hands, suffice it to say it's not that hard and was worth it. Keep your pipes clean and safe passages,
capt. Russ
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Old 06-11-2008, 15:21   #28
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OK...Ignorant question

... not the same thing as a stupid one cuz as soon as you have the answer your not ignorant any more...if I ask you the same one again tomarrow that will be a stupid one...

How do you light the stuff?
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Old 06-11-2008, 17:04   #29
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OK...Ignorant question

... not the same thing as a stupid one cuz as soon as you have the answer your not ignorant any more...if I ask you the same one again tomarrow that will be a stupid one...

How do you light the stuff?
The difference between ignorance and stupidity is that one is permanent and the other we can fix.
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Old 06-11-2008, 17:10   #30
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How do you light the stuff.........................is it tomorrow yet.
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