Which refer is best?

[Richard Kollmann]

Serpa4, As you can see from the responses so far about the best refrigeration for your boat, 98% will like the system they have. You need to remember there are no two boats the same and refrigeration desired temperatures for each persons boat are different. Also be careful about quoted amp-hrs per day no one can quantify a figure of amp-hrs for your boat. It is true that the new variable speed Danfoss BD compressors are more efficient in small boxes if they can be operated at slow Coefficient Of Performance speeds.

Before you can select a refrigeration brand you need to determine the right size Danfoss BD compressor and the desired temperature you would like to maintain inside the box. Chesapeake waters in summer are warm for that latitude and box’s insulation dry R value on production boats is always in question. I would gamble on a Danfoss BD 35 compressor with its speed set to run at a speed that matches evaporator’s Btu capacity.
A chamber evaporator 10x 11x 5 or 6 inches would be a good unit if it will fit through lid opening.

I would go for price avoiding all gadgets that do not improve a systems performance in your application like: electrical thermostats, automatic speed controls, or even holding plates unless boat is equipped with alternative energy solar or wind.

The condensing unit should have a shroud around fan to insure all air from fan is moved through condenser coil. Air flow after condenser coil should pass over compressor to supplement compressor cooling, this is one reason why water cooled condensers are a bad idea on BD compressors.

With maybe 100 icebox conversion options to choose from take tine to find one that fits your boating needs. The suggested post to look at Nova Kool might be what you are looking for without the negatives of; Adler Barbour, Frigoboat, Technautics, Isotherm and maybe SeaFrost in your design concept application.

[exMaggieDrum]

I replaced my old system with a Technautics Cool Blue and really liked it. It was efficient and reliable. Much easier to install than some others since the lines are all precharged and have aircraft type connectors from the lines to the holding plate in the refer. Otherwise you will need a tech to come out and vacuum your lines and then charge them with refrigerant. There may be some other systems available that install like the Cool Blue but DK.

I do know people have been very happy with Adler-Barbour systems over the years and in general with Danfoss compressors. But I don't have any experience or hearsay about Chinese made Danfoss compressors. Sad if true.

[serpa4]

Have to research, don't know what an Engel conversion is.

[serpa4]

If there is an option, I've read that the DF 35 is more efficient than the 50 since it's smaller. I have a small ice box. Any reason to go with a 50 over 35?

[first wind]

i take it you are sailing to Jamaica or Amsterdam and are looking for recommendations?

[a64pilot]

I'd say Cool blue, Why?

Cause I am right now having an issue with mine and have been on the phone yesterday and today with Rich.
This is Memorial Day weekend. Nothing ever made by man doesn't ever have problems, but a tech support call and answer on Memorial Day weekend is priceless. It is an excellent machine but truth be told just a little is everybody buys parts and assemblies a fridge. Like buying a computer for example. Dell doesn't actually build the hard drive.
But tech support on a holiday weekend just doesn't usually exist.


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[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I'd say Cool blue, Why?

Cause I am right now having an issue with mine ..............

Gee, whad'd ya break today, a64?!?

[Boatguy30]

Care to share any actual data supporting the claim the engel conversion is worthy of usage for anything but a weekender? (Btu/ watt efficiency, etc)

I was once to smitten with them, but there's a reason why they are uncommon

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

Care to share any actual data supporting the claim the engel conversion is worthy of usage for anything but a weekender? (Btu/ watt efficiency, etc)

I was once to smitten with them, but there's a reason why they are uncommon

In my experience the Engel is although fairly efficient they don't seem to work well in systems with much over a total of about 4cf ( freezer and spill over fridge combined)

[CarinaPDX]

My icebox, now reefer, is very similar in size and shape as the OP's. I use a BD35F to cool it, and freeze a small evaporator box. Even in the tropics it has had a low duty cycle at the lowest speed (2000 rpm) - I have never had a reason to crank up the speed to its top 3500 rpm. Admittedly my insulation (4") is likely a lot better than factory stock, but if that is a problem then fix the insulation instead of buying a much larger compressor than needed - which is to say you don't need a BD50 for your application.

My evaporator box is horizontal, located above the shelf and with insulation between the shelf and box. If you want the freezer to really freeze, and not freeze food in the reefer, you need to insulate between the two. Definitely read Kohlmann's site to understand.

As others have said, you should be looking at a very basic conversion package, which will likely have a Danfoss BD35F compressor with Danfoss 12v controller attached, air-cooled condenser, aluminum evaporator plate (possibly shaped in a box), and a simple thermostat. These are usually sold pre-charged with quick-connect fittings, which you will want because it is really hard to find someone to come to the boat and vacuum/charge the reefer, and the pump and gauges are not worth buying for a single use. Beyond that, the trade name is quite irrelevant with such a simple system - just go for what works at the lowest price. Search the web! BTW this is a fairly easy DIY project.

Greg

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Gee, whad'd ya break today, a64?!?

It may be a controller, but it may be owner induced as well. Seems to over amp at start up which I guess could be slugging due to too much refrigerant or maybe even some non condensible gas in the system

Either way though I was sort of in panic mode as Wife came back from Commissary with a few hundred dollars of steaks etc to freeze for our up coming trip and I defrosted it and had it quit on me.
Called Rich and he got me going again, but as I said having someone answer on a weekend especially a major holiday weekend and talk you through getting something fixed, you just don't get that anywhere.
Sure you can save money buying a conversion off of the Internet, but who you going to call when meats thawing and your trip is hanging in the balance?


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[01kiwijohn]

I've had an Adler Barbour CU100 for some 14 years and it has done very well. Pot all the electrical connections with dielectric grease, should be good. Draws about 6 1/2 amps at start up, settles down to about 3 after that. Good insulation will reduce your run time and extend its life.

[Mikeiso1192]

Here is my experience.
This spring I have installed an Isotherm 2501.
This was a straight forward install.
We are based in the Mediteranean and now have ample cooling and ice for the evening drinks.
Would emphasise though not to forget to fit plenty of good quality insulation to the base and sides of your box and also good ventilation around the compressor.
Mike

[Drumroll30]

I have a Nova Kool in my C&C 30-2, 28 years old with the original never been topped up R-12 refridgerant. A bit of a pig on batteries but not so much so that I would replace it. I cruise on weekends, 3 group 31 house batteries gets me through a 2 day weekend including the rest of the house load. When and if it dies I'll surely go with Nova Kool again. It would be embarrasing to say how many cold beers have come out that fridge but I'm sure you get the picture.

[iseadreamer]

We have used an Isotherm 5700 with coldplate in Mexico 18 years now. VERY efficient with dual amp control under 12volt and auto switch to 120 at dock. Only issue followed hurricane damage so not unit's fault, but Great Water was/is best for service always.