Pearson 36 Sloop - Opinions?

[BigNickMontana]

I've been looking at some 1970's model Pearson 36'es fir my first sailboat, this will be a live aboard.

I was wondering if any of you have first hand experience with this boat.

[Don C L]

Are you referring to this one?
The Pearson 36 Cutter Sailboat : Bluewaterboats.org
Very nice first boat but I say this with no personal experience sailing one, just admiring from afar. I'd say you are swinging for the fence with this one. I'd get a Laser to learn how to sail on along with it, if you are just learning.

[Island Time O25]

Not exactly P36s but I sailed P33s and P34s when I first started out at a sailing club. Great boats and very strongly built. Of course as with any 40 year old boat condition will vary from pristine to junk so you'd want to have either a survey done (if the price justifies it) or have a knowledgeable friend/buddy/naval engineer look at it.

Also have to figure out if are you getting it as a short term or long term solution to your sailing needs. If long term - have to figure out first your eventual sailing area and/or expected destinations as they will determine the draft and the type of vessel. Out in PNW and Northeast you can get away with a 6'-7' draft. Down in and around Florida and Bahamas not so much.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Are you referring to this one?
The Pearson 36 Cutter Sailboat : Bluewaterboats.org
Very nice first boat but I say this with no personal experience sailing one, just admiring from afar. I'd say you are swinging for the fence with this one. I'd get a Laser to learn how to sail on first if you are just learning.

I did my small boat sailing about 10 years ago, I've driven a 35' powerboat pretty regular so I am fairly familiar with a craft this size. I also plan on taking lessons to learn how to run her properly.

But yes, that is what I am looking at for the most part, although finding one cutter rigged seems to be more rare, although if I can find one at a reasonable price later this summer I'll snatch it up.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Not exactly P36s but I sailed P33s and P34s when I first started out at a sailing club. Great boats and very strongly built. Of course as with any 40 year old boat condition will vary from pristine to junk so you'd want to have either a survey done (if the price justifies it) or have a knowledgeable friend/buddy/naval engineer look at it.

Also have to figure out if are you getting it as a short term or long term solution to your sailing needs. If long term - have to figure out first your eventual sailing area and/or expected destinations as they will determine the draft and the type of vessel. Out in PNW and Northeast you can get away with a 6'-7' draft. Down in and around Florida and Bahamas not so much.

Eventually id like to go all the way around, although not sure id be doing it on this boat. I'm gonna start in the Pacific running up and down the coast, then not sure if I will head east or west from there.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

Eventually id like to go all the way around, although not sure id be doing it on this boat. I'm gonna start in the Pacific running up and down the coast, then not sure if I will head east or west from there.

P36 should be fine for the Pacific.

[BigNickMontana]

What I am really curious about is are there any issues that this boat specifically is likely to have?

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

What I am really curious about is are there any issues that this boat specifically is likely to have?

Given it's age the issues could be many. Plus even if it had inherent build issues most likely in 40 years one or more of the owners fixed those and many new ones cropped up simply due to age and/or neglect.

I know that some (many?) of them had the V-drives, not the best technical solution and prone to failures, according to my marine pro buddies.

Just our of curiosity - what is the asking price?

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Given it's age the issues could be many. Plus even if it had inherent build issues most likely in 40 years one or more of the owners fixed those and many new ones cropped up simply due to age and/or neglect.

I know that some (many?) of them had the V-drives, not the best technical solution and prone to failures, according to my marine pro buddies.

Just our of curiosity - what is the asking price?

I have found several between 7,000.00 and 40,000.00 pretty wide range.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

I have found several between 7,000.00 and 40,000.00 pretty wide range.

Exactly my point as the price range probably (though not always) reflects the range of conditions. Chose the one which is in the best shape and easiest to transport to where it'll be kept and haggle it down to a price which you can afford. Bring cash or bank cashier check with your best offer and be prepared to walk away if the owner balks. In my own past searches several times I received a call back from a previously reticent seller agreeing to my offer only having to tell him I was all set.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

Exactly my point as the price range probably (though not always) reflects the range of conditions. Chose the one which is in the best shape and easiest to transport to where it'll be kept and haggle it down to a price which you can afford. Bring cash or bank cashier check with your best offer and be prepared to walk away if the owner balks. In my own past searches several times I received a call back from a previously reticent seller agreeing to my offer only having to tell him I was all set.

You're right about that, there is nothing like cash on the barrel head to get a deal done.

I am planning on having about 40 grand in cash to start with by the end of the summer if all goes well, I am actually hoping to find a boat for about 20 where the hull and engine are in good shape, but it needs to have the rigging replaced so I can nip that in the butt from the get go and start with a boat that is fresh.

[skipmac]

Hi Nick

Finishing a total overhaul on a 1984 Pearson so can offer some insights on the brand in general.

Pearsons, especially the older ones, are generally solid boats, but with any boat that age you can have serious issues that could make the boat more work and cost than it's worth. The big ones.

- Wet core in the deck.
- Bulkheads well tabbed to hull and deck
- damage to almost everything if the boat has ever been wet inside
- Hull/deck joint.

These are potential deal killers even if the boat was free.

Others that are fixable or replaceable but you should factor in to the purchase price.

- engine
- sails
- rig
- cosmetics
- wiring
- plumbing, pumps, etc
- electronics

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Hi Nick

Finishing a total overhaul on a 1984 Pearson so can offer some insights on the brand in general.

Pearsons, especially the older ones, are generally solid boats, but with any boat that age you can have serious issues that could make the boat more work and cost than it's worth. The big ones.

- Wet core in the deck.
- Bulkheads well tabbed to hull and deck
- damage to almost everything if the boat has ever been wet inside
- Hull/deck joint.

These are potential deal killers even if the boat was free.

Others that are fixable or replaceable but you should factor in to the purchase price.

- engine
- sails
- rig
- cosmetics
- wiring
- plumbing, pumps, etc
- electronics

What do you mean by Tabbed bulkheads?

I have seen videos of replacing coring in decks and you are absolutely right about that, it is not a job I have any desire to get involved in!

[four winds]

Be sure to carefully inspect the keel step in the bilge. And the base of the mast as well. Steel on aluminum here and subject to corrosion. This is often repaired by trimming the mast base and building a new step taller to compensate, using aluminum or a composite. If the standing rigging is loose, note the turnbuckle threaded position then take a look at the step.

If a vdrive, don't let it be a deal breaker. Most criticism revolves around access to the stuffing box underneath and not reliability in my opinion. Access to mine is not that big a deal, though I'm more patient than many.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

What do you mean by Tabbed bulkheads?

I have seen videos of replacing coring in decks and you are absolutely right about that, it is not a job I have any desire to get involved in!

Tabbing refers to how the bulkheads are attached to the boat. The bulkheads are plywood (usually with a finished teak veneer) that not only divide the cabins in the boat but also are a significant structural element.

Around the outer edges of the bulkheads the builder applies layers of fiberglass strips typically a few inches wide. The other side of the strips are bonded to the hull and deck. If the plywood bulkhead has been wet or damaged, the hull hit or stressed at the area around the bulkhead, or just the bond not done properly the bulkheads can lose their attachment to the boat, either on the bulkhead or on the hull/deck side.

Regarding core. It's a pretty common and not too difficult or expensive to dig out and patch small to moderate sized areas around stanchions and other deck fittings that over time leaked into the core. Once it gets beyond a few inches it becomes a problem.