Pearson 36 Sloop - Opinions?

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

Boat I used to spend a lot of time on had a combined shower/head, the TP was behind this plastic flip over cover, if you weren't careful water running off your body would flood behind the cover and turn the roll into a wet gooey mess not to be discovered until it was needed.

And after the first time???:sm ile:

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

And after the first time???:sm ile:

Wasn't my boat, if it was there were a lot of those little annoyances on board that would have found themselves deep sixed right quick and in a hurry.

I've spent a lot of time on boats (mostly power) this summer I'll finally be buying my own.

[hamburking]

I don't know about the P36, but I recently sold my 1972 Pearson 30, which I sailed for 5 years, mostly singlehanded.

No complaints about the boat at all. Well built. rugged, strong, easy to sail, simple, forgiving, yet fast. I like fast!

It looked great on deck, and looked great sailing.
However, being from the 70's, it was "dated" below. Plastic wood and melamine everywhere. No fancy teak. Very basic carpentry and joinery. As a sailor, I couldn't care less about how it looked...so long as it sailed well, which it did. But it was off-putting to my family and guests, and finally led to selling.

Trouble is, I had a Hunter Legend 35.5 once upon a time, so they know just how sweet it can be below.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by hamburking

I don't know about the P36, but I recently sold my 1972 Pearson 30, which I sailed for 5 years, mostly singlehanded.

No complaints about the boat at all. Well built. rugged, strong, easy to sail, simple, forgiving, yet fast. I like fast!

It looked great on deck, and looked great sailing.
However, being from the 70's, it was "dated" below. Plastic wood and melamine everywhere. No fancy teak. Very basic carpentry and joinery. As a sailor, I couldn't care less about how it looked...so long as it sailed well, which it did. But it was off-putting to my family and guests, and finally led to selling.

Trouble is, I had a Hunter Legend 35.5 once upon a time, so they know just how sweet it can be below.

Oh you're absolutely right about that the interiors on them is what I would call "Glit" that is a combination of Glue and $H!T!!!

For me though that is a positive because I plan on yanking the interior and doing it up custom. Many surfaces will just get recovered in a veneer of some kind, some replaced, but you won't recognize the interior when I am done, and no one is going to be mad at me for "Destroying a classic boat interior" when I am done!

Not ready to let what I have planned out of the bag yet, but I will say this, it is not going to be a whole lot of wood and its really going to turn heads!

[captjcook]

Forgot to mention...FL boat has wood grain Formica cabinetry and white Formica bulkheads/countertops. Chicago boat has a very, very nice original mahogany interior including nav table and saloon table, only white Formica on the fridge and sink areas (came with a full bolt of original seating fabric also). Both have wood soles.


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[GordMay]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

... "paying VAT and having the boat CE marked with an RCD rating "A"." What does this mean? ...

Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) Definitions of Boat Design Categories.

‘A’ OCEAN: Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force 8 (Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4 m and above but excluding abnormal conditions, and vessels largely self-sufficient.

‘B’ OFFSHORE: Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to, and including, wind force 8 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 4 m may be experienced.

‘C’ INSHORE: Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to, and including, wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 2 m may be experienced.

‘D’ SHELTERED WATERS: Designed for voyages on sheltered coastal waters, small bays, small lakes, rivers and canals when conditions up to, and including, wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 0.3 m may be experienced, with occasional waves of 0.5 m maximum height, for example from passing vessels.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) Definitions of Boat Design Categories.

‘A’ OCEAN: Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force 8 (Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4 m and above but excluding abnormal conditions, and vessels largely self-sufficient.

‘B’ OFFSHORE: Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to, and including, wind force 8 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 4 m may be experienced.

‘C’ INSHORE: Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to, and including, wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 2 m may be experienced.

‘D’ SHELTERED WATERS: Designed for voyages on sheltered coastal waters, small bays, small lakes, rivers and canals when conditions up to, and including, wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 0.3 m may be experienced, with occasional waves of 0.5 m maximum height, for example from passing vessels.

Cool, Thanks! Makes perfect sense now.

[TomLewis]

I too am looking for a Pearson 36, and know that they are solidly built hull wise, but to skipmac and others, is softness around the stanchions deal breakers? A boat I am looking at is seasonally used and put on the hard during the winter.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by TomLewis

I too am looking for a Pearson 36, and know that they are solidly built hull wise, but to skipmac and others, is softness around the stanchions deal breakers? A boat I am looking at is seasonally used and put on the hard during the winter.

Hi Tom,

I had wet core around most of my stanchion bases. The worst area had rotted balsa for 2-3" radius from the bolt holes and wet for another 2-3". I opened them all up, used various poking tools to route out the rot. Many recommend an allen wrench in a drill but I found coat hangers bent to various shapes and lengths worked best for me. Leave it open for as long as you can to dry as much as possible. A buddy poured acetone in his holes to absorb the moisture. I taped a vacuum cleaner hose to the worst spots, drilled a few vent holes outside the wet area and let it suck for a hour or so a few times. The holes were also good to take a small sample to check the state of the core at various distances from the leaks.

When I felt it was dry enough I filled the void with thickened epoxy, redrilled the holes and remounted the stanchions, bedded with butyl tape and adding a 4X6" SS backing plate for good measure.

Bottom line, how far does the wetness, rot and softness extend and is the price low enough to compensate for your time to do the repairs?

[BigNickMontana]

I was looking around and found this one, new diesel in 2011, seems to be in really nice shape.

If I had the cash right now id be going after it.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973...s#.VtnfNOaumYD

It will probably be long gone by the end of the summer though.

[TomLewis]

Thanks Skipmac, I don't have any core repair experience, sounds like time more than expense. I could get a quote to fix and apply that to the offer. Sounds like your repair would actually hold someone on board a pitching deck. Thanks again.

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

I was looking around and found this one, new diesel in 2011, seems to be in really nice shape.

If I had the cash right now id be going after it.

1973 Pearson 36 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

It will probably be long gone by the end of the summer though.

That is a sweet ride, loaded and done up right.
The price keeps dropping...already more than reasonable.
I guess most people want a new boat. Hard to spend serious bucks on a boat over 40 years old.

I give it two thumbs up.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by hamburking

That is a sweet ride, loaded and done up right.
The price keeps dropping...already more than reasonable.
I guess most people want a new boat. Hard to spend serious bucks on a boat over 40 years old.

I give it two thumbs up.

Like I said if I had the cash on hand id be headed down to Florida, maybe I will get lucky and she will still be available come the end of summer when I am ready but I doubt it.

[TomLewis]

Originally Posted by hamburking

That is a sweet ride, loaded and done up right.
The price keeps dropping...already more than reasonable.
I guess most people want a new boat. Hard to spend serious bucks on a boat over 40 years old.

I give it two thumbs up.

They have done a nice job with this boat, the only thing that discourages me is the traveler across the hatch opening. I have never been able to warm up to that feature. I'm sure it could be moved to the cabin top, just not sure how easy (or hard) that would be.

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by TomLewis

They have done a nice job with this boat, the only thing that discourages me is the traveler across the hatch opening. I have never been able to warm up to that feature. I'm sure it could be moved to the cabin top, just not sure how easy (or hard) that would be.

I agree...I always felt the traveler on the bridge deck was dangerous when sailing with my kids. I'd prefer "forward sheeting" as well, but an aft sheet, right on the stern is ok too. Anyplace but the bridge deck. Also, it makes the most comfy spot on the boat (leaning back on the coach house) hard on your bum.