Looking for part spec's

[barnakiel]

If it is for the engine then you can measure the shaft in the boat BUT the outer diameter is more difficult to get. If water is warm and clean, you can dive and see if any part of the bearing stands out. If so, measure it with calipers. If not, you may have to wait till on dry.

b.

[valerinna]

Hi,

We are blessed for all of you at the forum and as we found a new cutlass bearing hiding on the boat! Capt Rog either forgot he had it or it was here all along.

We have ran into another problem. The workers cannot get the prop off! It's always something isn't it? Anyone out there have any idea's?

Valerinna

I tried to add attachment pictures but can't find a button to do so. I will check help.

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by valerinna

Hi,

We are blessed for all of you at the forum and as we found a new cutlass bearing hiding on the boat! Capt Rog either forgot he had it or it was here all along.

We have ran into another problem. The workers cannot get the prop off! It's always something isn't it? Anyone out there have any idea's?

Valerinna

I tried to add attachment pictures but can't find a button to do so. I will check help.

Valerinna,

How wonderful you found the spare part on board... [don't forget to measure it!]

I've rarely had success with penetrating fluids. A shock load usually does the trick.

The very short version of the procedure I've had luck with for freeing a recalcitrant prop from its shaft is:

• Back the prop nuts off 1/16 to 1/8 inch [props can "fly" otherwise]
• Install prop puller and tighten until the tension is very tight
• Keep Double-checking everything is symmetrical and inline, and stays that way
• Tap on the end of the puller or prop shaft [depending upon the puller design] with a hammer. A strong tap, not a hard blow. Remember this is conducting through the prop shaft to your transmission... If stronger blows are needed, disconnect the shaft at transmission so the force isn't conducted.
• Sometimes the shock of a few taps will pop them loose
• If not, heat the prop hub evenly [not the shaft] with a torch.
• Repeat

Best wishes getting things apart.

Don't forget to grease the cleaned shaft and prop mating parts before reassembling, and remember the small nut goes on first...

RE: Photos: scroll down in the compose window and you will find 'Manage Attachments"...

Cheers!

Bill

[TrentePieds]

Bill said it all, except this [better safe than sorry:-)]: NO blows to the side of the propeller hub or the side of the nuts and shaft. ONLY blows on "the end" so the force transmits along the axis of the shaft.

It's the undulating "wave" that the blow sets up in the metal that causes the "bond" twixt the taper on the shaft and the bore in the prop to release, and it's the axial pull of the tight puller than keeps it from "grabbing" again.

Best of luck

TrentePieds

[svthreecheers]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

Valerinna,

How wonderful you found the spare part on board... [don't forget to measure it!]

I've rarely had success with penetrating fluids. A shock load usually does the trick.

The very short version of the procedure I've had luck with for freeing a recalcitrant prop from its shaft is:

• Back the prop nuts off 1/16 to 1/8 inch [props can "fly" otherwise]
• Install prop puller and tighten until the tension is very tight
• Keep Double-checking everything is symmetrical and inline, and stays that way
• Tap on the end of the puller or prop shaft [depending upon the puller design] with a hammer. A strong tap, not a hard blow. Remember this is conducting through the prop shaft to your transmission... If stronger blows are needed, disconnect the shaft at transmission so the force isn't conducted.
• Sometimes the shock of a few taps will pop them loose
• If not, heat the prop hub evenly [not the shaft] with a torch.
• Repeat

Best wishes getting things apart.

Don't forget to grease the cleaned shaft and prop mating parts before reassembling, and remember the small nut goes on first...

RE: Photos: scroll down in the compose window and you will find 'Manage Attachments"...

Cheers!

Bill

Grease the shaft taper before assembly ??
I thought it has to be grease free so that the prop won't turn on the shaft.
Don't forget,the key in the shaft is only one part,the other one is the taper
to hold the prop secure.
Cheers
Siggi

[barnakiel]

I have seen a prop pop on a conical shaft when the prop got heated up with a heatgun. That was a very small boat though and so the prop was small - easy to heat up quickly. This method will not work on a big prop IMHO.

b.

[valerinna]

Cheers Bill! And a big Thank you!

Valerie

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

Bill said it all, except this [better safe than sorry:-)]: NO blows to the side of the propeller hub or the side of the nuts and shaft. ONLY blows on "the end" so the force transmits along the axis of the shaft.

It's the undulating "wave" that the blow sets up in the metal that causes the "bond" twixt the taper on the shaft and the bore in the prop to release, and it's the axial pull of the tight puller than keeps it from "grabbing" again.

Best of luck

TrentePieds

Thanks, TrentePieds.

You are right, it never hurts to describe critical aspects of a procedure from multiple perspectives- something I skipped in my brief overview.

Thanks for that worthwhile addition.

Cheers!

Bill

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by svthreecheers

Grease the shaft taper before assembly ??
I thought it has to be grease free so that the prop won't turn on the shaft.
Don't forget,the key in the shaft is only one part,the other one is the taper
to hold the prop secure.
Cheers
Siggi

Hi Siggi,

You are right. I should have taken the time to be more explicit with my quick reply yesterday. By generically writing 'grease' when I intended to imply 'lubricate' I could give the wrong impression. Thanks for pointing this out.

A light, thin coating of liquid lubricant on both shaft taper and prop bore to prevent gauling during final assembly of the prop on the shaft [after final lapping...] is what I understand is needed.

This is done to assure a tight final fit by preventing gauling during assembly; not to make future removal easier...

A heavy grease, as could be inferred from my original outline, is not warranted nor desirable in this case as the wrong grease could prevent proper final fitment of the tapered surfaces if not sufficiently tightened and retightened after some use.

Regarding the taper as a torque transfer coupling: It is my understanding that with props of the sizes found on 'our' recreational vessels, the taper is primarily for precise concentric, radial, and axial alignment, and secondary provides friction to assist with conveying torsional forces [like a Morse Taper does on machinery.] However, the taper alone is not adequate in these cases; a rotation prevention device- a key in the case of 'our' propellers- is still required due to the size [torque] ratio of the prop vs. shaft diameters. [i.e., it would take a much larger shaft diameter to provide adequate friction to reduce the need for a key or pin. e.g., our prop is 22 inches in diameter on a hefty 1.75 inch shaft (larger and stronger than the factory original 40mm) and that absolutely still requires a key to prevent the prop form rotating on the shaft..]

Thanks again for pointing out why I shouldn't attempt to be too brief- especially with something so important. [Beware others may hold you in contempt for reminding me I should include even more detail on occasion...]

Cheers!

Bill

[mitiempo]

This may help:

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Sleeve Bearing) Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Lap Fitting A Propeller To A Shaft Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Lubricant is not needed or desired.

[TrentePieds]

"[Beware others may hold you in contempt for reminding me I should include even more detail on occasion...]"

Nah :-)! Surely it's a collaborative effort and, within reason, more heads are better than one.

Some of us can no longer remember how confused and uncertain we were as newbs :-0)!

TrentePieds

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

"[Beware others may hold you in contempt for reminding me I should include even more detail on occasion...]"

Nah :-)! Surely it's a collaborative effort and, within reason, more heads are better than one.

Some of us can no longer remember how confused and uncertain we were as newbs :-0)!

TrentePieds

Amen to qualified collaboration, TrentePieds.


After playing with boats for so long, I've had enough lessons in humility that I remember full well what it was like when I was just getting started- and thought I knew so much more than I do now...

For me forum requests are opportunities to confirm what I think I already know.

This approach helps me avoid becoming stuck in my ways through assuming what I learned is still valid, and invites fresh perspective for issues I will need to tackle myself again at some point in the future.

Enter collaboration and the generosity of all of you who contribute.

Its selfish of me really; after working through someone else's issue, I'm ready to tackle it on my boat without having to re-validate my approach first! [And frankly, something I many not take or have the time to do in the moment...]

This is just my way of remembering that the more I learn, the more I discover what I don't know...

Cheers, and thanks!

Bill

[TrentePieds]

:-) Two axioms apply: 1) "You don't really know a subject until you've taught it", and 2) "It's amazing how much smarter my old man got as I grew older"

TrentePieds

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

:-) Two axioms apply: 1) "You don't really know a subject until you've taught it", and 2) "It's amazing how much smarter my old man got as I grew older"

TrentePieds

Isn't that the truth!

I also like: I was so much older then; I'm younger than that now...

Cheers!

Bill