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Old 29-11-2010, 16:25   #61
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wick units - not sure they generate much heat. pressure units and evaporation cup - indeed you will be sweating and toasty in no time! good luck!
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Old 30-11-2010, 04:48   #62
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This Fab-All keeps the boat very warm down to about 35F, could go colder if I insulated the boat. I run it on kerosene, however it will work on diesel as well.

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Old 01-12-2010, 08:02   #63
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Hey Skylark - I have that exact same heater. Do you know where I could grab a manual for it?

To add to this thread, we did some rough and tumble passages over the last two weeks and here's how the diesel heater performed:

- don't use liquid parrafin ("lamp oil") as a primer. it stinks, smokes, flames, and isn't hot enough.

- it doesn't work all that well underway in a lot of wind, or when tacking / gybing. There's something happening with the air flow dynamics that can cause, occasionally, the wind to be forced down the "out" hole, which kills the flame, and produces *a lot* of smoke, a decent amount of which ends up in the cabin. That's with the door shot tight and properly. Obviously the vast majority of the smoke goes out the vent pipes, but just enough get squeezed out into the cabin to cause the portholes needing to be opened to vent, which of course is the last thing you want to do when it's cold enough to need to run the heater.

Big wind anchored, no problem. We even had big wind underway for a good ten hours with no problems. But then we tacked, the staysail swung across and I think caused a bit of a vacuum on deck, just enough to cause suction on the intake, and poof, flame out.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:25   #64
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Hey Skylark - I have that exact same heater. Do you know where I could grab a manual for it? ...
I believe that Fab-All is now called SIG MARINE PRODUCTS LTD. (Richmond, BC)

SigMarine Manuals Welcome to SigMarine.com - Manuals & Specs
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:46   #65
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Just to add to the mix, as a late comer to the discussion, I installed a Force 10 pressurised kerosene cabin heater on my Newport 33. The boat was used offshore and required a heater that would operate at wild heel angles, so a drip-cup style heater was out. This particular heater was essentially a stove-top burner mounted in a rather nice can.

Fuel source was kerosene stored in a small (1-2 gallon) tank that I pressurised with a bicycle pump. The stove had a flue out the cabin-top (big hole to drill!), and the heater would keep the boat nice and toasty.

The downside to a pressurised heater is the hissing noise the burner makes, so it wasn't silent, unlike the drip-cup type heaters my friends had (only they couldn't use their heater while sailing).

Great heater for a smaller boat.

One value of venting the heater thru the chimney (other than minimizing the risk of carbon monoxide death) is the heater dries out the boat out by a) removing water resulting from heater fuel combustion, and b) removing water that evaporates into the warmer air from interior cushions, woodwork, books, bedding, etc.

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Old 01-12-2010, 08:54   #66
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All very nice. Be aware the manufacturer docs all recommend a lift pump into a gravity tank, or an electric pump directly into the units. But, we will have none of that,

I'd like to know what the pressurized tanks are made of, and how you solved that problem with these units. The Taylors I had came with its own steel tank.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:10   #67
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All very nice. Be aware the manufacturer docs all recommend a lift pump into a gravity tank, or an electric pump directly into the units. But, we will have none of that,

I'd like to know what the pressurized tanks are made of, and how you solved that problem with these units. The Taylors I had came with its own steel tank.
If you're asking after the Force 10 unit:

The pressure tank was a small grey-painted steel cylinder mounted vertically, with a Schrader valve on the top to attach the bike pump to. To fill the tank the valve was opened to relieve pressure, a second screw-top port on the top was opened and I'd add fuel using a funnel. The heater was purchased in the early 1990's, and the burner mechanism required pressurised fuel to atomize it - so a gravity tank or electric pump was not mentioned.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:31   #68
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yes the new ones are - perhaps for some "standard" or maybe someone got hurt by hooking it up to a tire pressure center ( omg) and now they are paranoid. Did you purchase the tank yourself or was it already there? Difficult to find sometimes
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Old 01-12-2010, 14:14   #69
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Did you purchase the tank yourself or was it already there? Difficult to find sometimes
The tank came with the heater when I purchased it from Force 10, all I did was install them.
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Old 01-12-2010, 14:57   #70
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The tank came with the heater when I purchased it from Force 10, all I did was install them.
I too have the force 10 heater and used the tank for a couple of years after first installing the heater. I had orginally planned to use diesel, but then decided that kerosene would be cleaner burning so I filled the small tank you speak of with that fuel. Even with the cleaner burning kerosene there was that annoying smell and the hassel of pre heating the burner. I then converted the heater to propane and the issue of pre heat went away as did the smell. One of the best decisions about equipment modification that I've ever made. Plus the hole to cut in the deck with the force 10 unit is smaller than some of the other stoves out there even though the btu output is less.
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Old 01-12-2010, 16:24   #71
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might as well go for the propane version right away!
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Old 01-12-2010, 17:07   #72
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i have one of those dickinson newport ones-- found the manual online for a friend--but mine came with papers .
i also have one of those propane force 10 ones. no manual. i dont use either.
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Old 01-12-2010, 17:25   #73
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Hey Skylark - I have that exact same heater. Do you know where I could grab a manual for it?
I have a Fab-All manual on the boat, when I get a chance to bust through the snowdrifts I will get it and scan it in.

I use a shot of alcohol to prime the thing, let it burn for 3 or 5 minutes, then turn on the kerosene.
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Old 01-12-2010, 18:17   #74
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If you use a kerosene heater buy and use a CO monitor. Years ago i had a friend killed by the type of heater you are talking about. I still can picture them taking him off the boat in a body bag. If you are using non vented fossil fuels you NEED to have a CO monitor. That include stove lights and heater. Get one at the big box hardware store for 30 bucks.
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Old 01-12-2010, 18:19   #75
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I have a small wood stove but if I find one cheap I might also install a Dickinson Newport diesel heater as well.
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