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Old 06-09-2011, 16:34   #46
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

It seems like the Frugal Mariner method of doubling up on insulation types is the recommended route. Most people on this thread who have only used one thing seem to say that they have limited success. Has anyone used just the PU foam without bubble wrap/ reflectix?
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Old 06-09-2011, 17:06   #47
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

What is the reason for not insulating below the water line?

We are getting ready to install the metallic bubble wrap (with contact cement) and I had planned to open up the lockers and fit it down there as well.

Should I not do this for some reason?

I figured the water (55° most of the time) was a big contributor to the chill.

Also, Simes, could you explain why the use of the contact cement on the insulation and the spray mount on the fiberglass makes for easier removal?

Thanks!
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Old 06-09-2011, 17:06   #48
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Yes, I do all my own insulating, using high quality 1' think neoprene from an outfit out west called the Foam Factory. Very high R value and waterproof, simple to cut, fit and apply with contact cement.
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Old 06-09-2011, 19:46   #49
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

I think the reason people don't insulate below the waterline is that in the event of damage below the waterline you would be unable to get at it.
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Old 06-09-2011, 19:47   #50
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Quote:
Originally Posted by cburger View Post
Yes, I do all my own insulating, using high quality 1' think neoprene from an outfit out west called the Foam Factory. Very high R value and waterproof, simple to cut, fit and apply with contact cement.
very nice...and the results?
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:58   #51
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Hi Sara,

I am afraid that I do not know why using the combination of Contact Cement and the Spray-on contact cement makes the fix firm but removable. It was just the result of experimentation.

On a second point about insulating below the water line. I simply have not got around to it yet. In the harder to reach areas, small locker corners and the small long areas of the bilge I have been experimenting with the thin Closed Cell camping mattresses much beloved of festival goers. These are water proof (closed cell) and mould to the complex curves of the underwater shape very easily. I find them easier to work with that the Reflectix but a bit more expensive. At the present this is working very well, the one I am testing is 8mm thick. Easy to cut, easy to affix and easy to purchase.

Unbuster67,
I have used just PU foam up against the hull. With a mean thickness of around 3" we are not experiencing any cold or condensation.

Simes
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Old 07-09-2011, 08:56   #52
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Foam It Green - 602 - Polyurethane Spray Foam Insulation Kit

This Stuff?
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:20   #53
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

No, this (Everbuild Product Range - Everbuild) sort of stuff, only I cant find the fire retardant foam at the moment.

I do like the look of the PU foam you can get there though. Looks like it is probably easy to apply, may even work up-side down?

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Old 07-09-2011, 10:48   #54
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

I have seen an impressive demo of Mascoat, engine room sound insulation as well as heat insulation. They actually put it on a piece of metal and then on a hot plate. You could touch the up side..... You paint it on and it's a lot like latex paint.... i would think this would be a great alternative for metal boats, thin and not ugly like thick spray on materials.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:53   #55
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

I insulated nearly the entire boat this spring using polystyrene pink foam board from Home Depot (Foamular brand, also Styrofoam brand is the same), Liquid Nails and hard white marine plastic over oak dummy frames epoxied to the hull. In most of the cabinets, I skipped the glue altogether by cutting the foam precisely to fit and shoving it in place. It's worked marvellously. With the recent muggy weather in Annapolis, we had a sight mold problem on the boat again, but none of the insulation got moldy.

My husband did a technical post on why we chose styrofoam board and avoided reflectix -- Boat Insulation: Filtering Through the BS | Picaroon Blog

And here's my take on how I did the project: Insulating the Boat, Part One: Head Done! | Picaroon Blog
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:07   #56
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

FYI The solvents in Regular "Construction" Liquid Nails will eat styrofoam. Make sure you use the stuff rated for foam board. They make a couple different ones. The Project stuff works. Other brands have similar formulations. BOB
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:16   #57
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sand crab View Post
FYI The solvents in Regular "Construction" Liquid Nails will eat styrofoam. Make sure you use the stuff rated for foam board. They make a couple different ones. The Project stuff works. Other brands have similar formulations. BOB
Yes, I had forgotten that we switched from Liquid Nails (we did use Project for that reason) to another adhesive (LocTite?) that was both waterproof and mildew resistant. The Liquid Nails wasn't happy trying to stick to the cold, wet hull. The other adhesive worked well, though I gave up on adhesive altogether for all the cabinets.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:27   #58
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

Yes, the newer style polyurethane construction glues are styrofoam compatible and will stick to wet stuff. In fact for gluing wood to wood it is recommended that you wet the wood slightly to increase adhesion. The water makes it foam up even though it goes down like regylar liquid nails so be neat. It is almost impossible to clean up. See Gorilla Glue and others. BOB
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Old 16-10-2011, 10:35   #59
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

HI all, i am gearing up to liveaboard in the winter in toronto, and i am reading about this closed cell insulation, but i am on a 32 Carver and not sure where to put this insulation? all the walls are carpeted...is this a dumb question? it cant go over the carpet can it?
Thanks in advance
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Old 16-10-2011, 11:17   #60
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Re: Insulating Your Interior

what ever you do make sure you have lots of ventilation when running heating otherwise its going to be like living in a shower and all that carpet is gonna turn green.....
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