Drinking Water Strange Residue

[Icarus]

I am currently in Brisbane, Australia, occupying a berth using townwater to fill my tanks. I recently noticed an oily, clear residue in my stainless steel water tanks, it's water soluble and tasteless...anyone else come across anything like that?
The way I found out was because the flick faucet started getting tight, the ceramic cartridge became sticky with this residue..strange. Some sort of bacteria?
Otherwise the tanks are clean and the water is clear.


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[oldragbaggers]

Spit it out.

[Icarus]

Excellent comment...wouldn't have thought of it...thanks

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[Hudson Force]

I would think it's time for a chlorine shock and rinse. With no smell or color it's less likely one of the bacteria using an iron or sulfur nutrient source. You may have a pseudomonas bloom in your filter.

[Cadence]

Have you tried contacting the municipal water supplier?

[velero]

Most likely minerals (calcium, Magnesium) from hard water, minerals tend to precipitate when they reach saturation. Ask your townwater to provide a copy of the chemical analysis to confirm hardness. you may also want to check your water heater where it becomes rock solid, minimizes heat transfer and the net volume of the tank.

[skipmac]

Have you tried filling a glass or gallon jug or something straight from the town water source to see if you get the same residue there? That might help you isolate the problem to the town supply vs something growing in your tanks.

[Hudson Force]

Slime coat cell walls are common among bacteria. Mineral deposits would more likely result in an opaque sediment. I think it's microbial.

[Snore]

Originally Posted by Icarus

I am currently in Brisbane, Australia, occupying a berth using townwater to fill my tanks. I recently noticed an oily, clear residue in my stainless steel water tanks, it's water soluble and tasteless...anyone else come across anything like that?
The way I found out was because the flick faucet started getting tight, the ceramic cartridge became sticky with this residue..strange. Some sort of bacteria?
Otherwise the tanks are clean and the water is clear.


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There are a zillion possibilities. It could be normally occurring bio that most utilities clear with thier normal flushing program or since you are on the docks (assumably) far from the point of service it could be back low from another boat or shop in the marina. My bet would be as others have indicated - hit the tanks with 50ppm of CL. Let it "cook" for 24 hours, drain , fill and rock -on.

[weavis]

Originally Posted by Hudson Force

Slime coat cell walls are common among bacteria. Mineral deposits would more likely result in an opaque sediment. I think it's microbial.

Ive had this.
clean through with chlorine, clean everything and start again.
microbial/bacterial...

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Icarus

The way I found out was because the flick faucet started getting tight, the ceramic cartridge became sticky with this residue..strange. Some sort of bacteria?
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That is exactly what it is, I would call it more slimy than oily, but hey opinions differ.

I want to try to sterilize my tanks with hydrogen peroxide, but can't find any info as to how to do it

[MarkJ]

Klingons in the Starboard Tank, Starboard Tank...


Bleach.

Empty the tanks, whack in a gallon or two of bleach. Shake. Rinse out and refill.

Bliss.

If that doesnt work put hops and malt in, wait a week and invite your mates...

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

That is exactly what it is, I would call it more slimy than oily, but hey opinions differ.



I want to try to sterilize my tanks with hydrogen peroxide, but can't find any info as to how to do it

I've recommended peroxide for years here, but unless you aluminum tanks it really isn't worth it far just doing a disinfection.

But if you do want to it I would recommend getting a 5 ppm hydrogen peroxide level on the tank for at least an hour. There drain fill and drain again. The problem is that for most it is hard to get peroxide Ina high enough concentration and to find a test kit for it.

So for disinfection for even aluminum it is just less trouble to use bleach as long as you flush the tanks after


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[a64pilot]

My tanks are aluminum, hence the desire to avoid chlorine if possible.
So far I ensure we are water wasters, thereby turning the tanks often, and haven't had to add anything, yet.
But for lay-up, like this winter when she is in the yard getting a bottom job, best to have the tanks as empty as possible, or completely full? I'll be out of the water for a couple of months.
I measured my tank, I have 140 gls usable, leaving 17 gls in it when it's as empty as I can get it.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

My tanks are aluminum, hence the desire to avoid chlorine if possible....

The problem with peroxide as a sanitizing agent is 2 fold: no regulatory authority (EPA, WHO, ANSI) will givce guidance because it is not an effective agent at any level that is safe to drink unless combined with some other method; the required level for sanitizing is 3% (drug store concentration, not coincidentally), which is completely impractical. Yes, it is non-corrosive to aluminum, but any claims that pouring a single bottle in the tank are effective are without support.

So no, peroxide will not work. As Sailorboy said, bleach used with great restraint (measure, don't just dump some) is safe and effective. Physical cleaning also goes a LONG ways toward reducing growth. You can't sanitize a dirty tank.