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Old 20-09-2010, 08:04   #16
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I wonder if the folks that don't have a condensation problem are the ones with insulated or cored hulls. Certainly Pyxis's Tartan 3700 is cored and also uses fresh air vents to the heat exchanger. A very sensible approach.

St. Elsewhere, does your boat have a cored hull or is it otherwise insulated?

This may be a little off topic but could have a bearing on what type of heater one might choose. I know that I would hate to live in a house without insulation or a well insulated/sealed house without fresh air ventilation.

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Old 20-09-2010, 08:39   #17
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Our boat does have a cored hull. There is a lot of heat loss through the glass though, and we do not get condensation forming on the windows except when boiling water in a closed cabin. I am wondering if those with humidity problems are using all radiant heaters and do not have any ventilation. Our system uses fan heaters (small radiators with a fan) which heat the air in the boat. Hydronic simply means that liquid is used to transfer energy from the heater to the spaces to be heated. Fan heaters, radiators, or loops of tubing below the floors are the various means of delivering the heat energy to the desired locations. In any event it seems the hunidity issue is a function related directly to lack of adequate ventilation rather than heating method. It might also be worsened if the heat system is undersized, making one reluctant to ventilate adequately.

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Old 20-09-2010, 08:46   #18
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the hydronic system on my former boat did not vent in outside air, and humidity was such a problem that I ultimately plumbed in a permanent dehumidifier. We were living on the boat--cooking and showering on the boat.

the forced air system on my current boat heats air from the outside. it keeps the boat far dryer than did the hydronic system.

cruising is entirely about showing up--in boat shoes.
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cabin, cabin heating

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