Desolation Sound Cruising

[A la carte]

I'm planning a two week trip, departing from and returning to northern Washington, with my one and only 1st mate to Desolation Sound in mid June of this year. We're newly relocated to the region and have never been to DS and I'm requesting the scuttlebutt from those who have explored the area. Adjacent areas could be added to the route. Quiet anchorages, kayaking spots, and occasional fun restaurants that just can't be missed would be super.

We'll be in our 44' Pacific Seacraft with full keel (6').

Thank you

[smith8273]

A guy has a good YouTube series on that area, look up ‘Life is Like Sailing.’

[Stu Jackson]

I just relocated here three years ago, too. I haven't planned DS yet, had an enjoyable first two seasons here in the Gulf Islands and visiting the San Juans. I just "did" Dodd Narrows for the first time Monday returning yesterday. Lots to see and do.


You may well get anecdotal input from others here as you requested, but I've also found that the local guides are quite good at most of the things you NEED to know, and I'm not sure how many folks are gonna share their own "hideaway super secret spots." It's like asking :"Hey, all you racers, what are your techniques for winning?"


Good luck, can't go wrong. I'm sure you know all about weather, weather and wind websites, the Canadian tide & current tables on the internet that don't include PDT (free, while Ports & Passes does correct for PDT but give you the same info for $26!), stuff like that, right?

[A la carte]

Thank you Stu and Smith. Stu; Yes, have the guides and weather/tides/current info. Just trying to cap off my pre-trip with some local knowledge if possible.

[rbk]

Wagoneers is a good place to start. Problem with DS in the summer is that everyone else from Washington and BC all have the same goal in mind. Get to anchorages early and expect company. The further you get from Vancouver the quieter it will be. If you head for the Broughtons or further north to Calvert you’ll lose the crowds.

[teaguy]

Desolation Sound is a wonderful destination and yes it is popular. We are from Vancouver and travel between Desolation and Seattle frequently. The realities are there is much to see and do but two weeks will ensure you will need to travel fairly quickly, but our schedules are what they are. I will let you know the most popular stops and routes and then others can elaborate on optional stops. Keep in mind popular stops are popular for a reason. They are either safe or provide good provisions and sometimes both! The typical route is via South Pender where you can clear customs by phone. After that Montague Harbour on southern Galiano island is really popular. Then you head north, again depending how quickly you need to travel to Nanaimo via Dodd narrows which is really fun, totally safe if you simply follow the tide and current tables which is a must. After Nanaimo you have two options, stay on the west side of Texada up the coast of Vancouver Island, and crossing near Comox. The other option is cutting across the Straight of Georgia and staying on the inside or east side of Texada, which still can be open on windy days, which are fairly rare in the summer but usually breezier in the afternoons. Smugglers is really neat to visit but too busy unless you are there REALLY early, next is Secret Cove, fuel, water, provisions. We like to stop in Van Anda on the northern tip of Texada, at the Texada boat club. You step off your boat into 1962, a really friendly group always. There are couple of good spots for provisioning fuel, water etc. on the way at Lund or right in Desolation at Refuge Cove on West Redonda. The usual stops in Desolation are Laura and Melanie Cove which are technically part of the Desolation Marine Park, which can sometimes be a suburb of Seattle mega yachts (not complaining, just an observation) or just north at Roscoe Bay, which is really great (busy). The entry in to Roscoe gets really shallow (sometimes dries on really low tides) but fill in a couple of times a day. We have a 6 foot draft and we get in. Let me qualify my comments that I am not suggesting you follow this route but instead have given you the most popular routes and a couple of stops. I have barely touched on what to do and see but I have given you the typical routes and a couple of stops that are the most popular, now others can give their favorites and off the beaten path stops. You will not be sorry for location, although the crowds can be a little taxing. Again it is popular for a reason.

[A la carte]

Thank you RBK and teaguy... very helpful and what I needed. Yes, I expect crowds, but for our first trip we should probably at least locate the popular spots and see why they ARE popular. The routing is helpful teaguy. RBK, I understand and like your thinking about how to lose the crowds and expect to do so on this and/or future trips.

[Cheechako]

I forget actual names, but from anchorages in Desolation and nearby, you can day hike into a couple lakes. Great freshwater swim and we caught a couple big trout readily in a short time with a small backpack rod. The lakes show on your charts.

Sometime make the trip out the Straight to Barkley Sound. It's everything Desolation isnt; Remote, wild, few other boats and a multitude of things and anchorages to explore. One of my favorite places in the world.

[yalla]

mid june should not be too bad, crowds reallly start in July.


almost everybody makes a stop smewhere around half way up, somewhere between halfmoon bay and jervis inlet. It seems most prefer the route on the east side of Texada, there are much much more in the way of services and anchorages:
halfmoon bay is quite open but has a dock you can tie to and a store above that dock.
smugglers and secret coves are very popular, smugglers is great but small and you should be prepared to stern tie. thornmanby islands has a great anchorage but very popular as well.
next is pender harbor, tons of services, a government dock anchorages and marinas. also busy but alot of capacity. If you can push further my favorite half-way stops are just inside jervis inlet. only anchorages, no services.


coming up the west side of Texada is slim pickings - tribune bay on Hornby island, Gillies bay on texada, lasqueti island has several anchorages, and there are some small islands just south of comox with anchorage. There is of course comox itself especially if you want to provision - they have Costco


the guides are all pretty good from wolferstan (old) to the newer dreamspeaker and probably newest is Salish Sea Pilot.

[yalla]

Most people power through to Desolation and miss some awesome spots along the way...

I highly recommend checking out the islands just south of desolation - the copeland islands just north of Lund are fantastic for paddling and have a few nice anchorages - if you have a good dinghy you can motor into lund for brekkie at the bakery. savary island has great beaches and a great local feel, spillsbury point on Hernando has a great beach and a wonderful view of the whole strait though the anchorage is open to all winds (great lunch stop) and my so far personal favorite is Mitlenatch Island - largest seabird colony in the Strait of Georgia, you'll be passing by with the wildflowers in bloom and shortly before the arrival of the big birds of prey that have their annual feed around start of july. you can paddle around with dozens of curious seals constantly popping up all around you - magical. there are also resident sea lions. it's only good for a day stop, the island is low, so not much protection.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I forget actual names, but from anchorages in Desolation and nearby, you can day hike into a couple lakes. Great freshwater swim and we caught a couple big trout readily in a short time with a small backpack rod. The lakes show on your charts.

Sometime make the trip out the Straight to Barkley Sound. It's everything Desolation isnt; Remote, wild, few other boats and a multitude of things and anchorages to explore. One of my favorite places in the world.

I think one was Unwin Lake. Yes June should be good.

[yalla]

And there is Cortes Island which is fantastic and not only because I live here


The south east corner of Cortes (Mary point) is the entrance to Desolation.



Gorge harbor is cute and has a great little marina/resort and places to anchor and tie up a dinghy. very welcoming to cruisers, good little store, diesel/propane/gas and nice kayaking between the gorge and whaletown. They have live music al fresco, a pool and hot tub, good wifi, a weekly market.

there are 5 (!) government docks (whaletown, gorge harbor, mansons landing, cortes bay, squirrel cove) and the price to tie up is ridiculous cheap (day rate i think 50-60 cents / foot / day, 15 amps for 7$ per day - I pay $450 for 6 months for my 28 footer!) and they do rafting so you should get a spot.

[yalla]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I forget actual names, but from anchorages in Desolation and nearby, you can day hike into a couple lakes. Great freshwater swim and we caught a couple big trout readily in a short time with a small backpack rod. The lakes show on your charts.

Sometime make the trip out the Straight to Barkley Sound. It's everything Desolation isnt; Remote, wild, few other boats and a multitude of things and anchorages to explore. One of my favorite places in the world.

many bays up here (most?) have tidal lagoons and/or actual lakes close to the head of the bay. Roscoe Bay with Black Lake is great - it is a short level hike to the lake and the shallows can be like a bath. easy enough to carry a kayak or paddleboard. those tidal lagoons can get bath warm in the summer with the right tides.


Anywhere you go will be beautiful, some with better views of the mountains than others. I think the popular spots are popular mainly because they are popular and have alot of room. prideaux haven is large and can accomodate (and does!!!) a hundred yachts - google satellite images. also popular are places with easy lake hikes or falls (Roscoe bay, Tenedos bay, Teakerne arm), or places with provisions (gorge harbour, refuge cove).


bio-luminescence is fantastic here, make sure you go for some "cosmic" night paddling.

[jackdale]

Get a copy of the Dreamspeaker Guide to Desolation Sound. Good information and nice to look at.

You will need about 300 feet of floating line for tying stern-to shore.

[Tugwit]

Originally Posted by A la carte

....and occasional fun restaurants that just can't be missed would be super.

We, too, sail on our stomachs .

With only two weeks, you'll be booking it for sure...but check out the Laughing Oyster restaurant on Okeover Inlet. You can also get there by vintage "taxi" from the marina in Lund. https://www.laughingoyster.ca/

Pender Harbour, on the way if you travel east of Texada Island, is a great stopover with all sorts of supplies and many temptations to stay for a while.

Farther south, Montague Harbor offers a "pub bus" to the Hummingbird Pub on Galiano Island that should not be missed. You can pick it up from the marina or the provincial park.

And when you've the time to explore your backyard, check out The Stonehouse Restaurant & Pub in Swartz Bay, BC which is actually in Canoe Cove, just south of Swartz Bay, north of Sidney.