Want To Buy: VOLVO MD7A RAW WATER PUMP REBUILD KIT

[davenrino]

Anyone know where to find a rebuild kit for the water pump">raw water pump? I also need any/all gaskets anywhere on the exhaust manifold. Thanks

[OldManMirage]

Just look on Ebay. There are several kits for the water pump, including one that has a brand new cover if you need that.

For the exhaust you may have to buy a complete head gasket set but its only about $100 for everything.

I have the same engine, so I say good luck !

BTW, what is your engine panel like ? Does it have a temp gauge ?

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by OldManMirage

Just look on Ebay. There are several kits for the water pump, including one that has a brand new cover if you need that.

For the exhaust you may have to buy a complete head gasket set but its only about $100 for everything.

I have the same engine, so I say good luck !

BTW, what is your engine panel like ? Does it have a temp gauge ?

Thanks a lot,
I found the rebuild kits but need to check my serial # or pump model to make sure it is the right size. You are right I couldn't find just a exhaust gasket but you say it is included with the head gasket set? The copper pipe under the exhaust manifold is pinched where it goes into the center of the manifold and leaks a bit. I found a used one on ebay. Do you know what they used to seal the copper pipe where it attaches?

My panel has a tach, temp guage and 2 idiot lights.

Mahalo,
Dave

[OldManMirage]

It looks like the exhaust manifold gasket would be in the kit. Its a squarish gasket I think ? Take a look at one of the sets. It should be part # 3875050.


I believe the pipe your talking about is for cooling water. It uses small hard rubber O-rings. Part # should be 829714, and I think a couple should come with the water pump rebuild kit. Buy 2 kits, and you'll have some extra.

[OldManMirage]

Nope, back up. Buy the Cooling Pipe Gaskets on Ebay. That has the parts you want.

[hpeer]

It’s a Johnson pump. Not sure what you mean by “rebuild kit”. Do you also want the seals and bearings? I’ve bought them online, pretty common sizes IIRC.

I presume you have the silly push in type copper connectors? I have found those O ring washers at a Lowe’s/Home Depot faucet repair section. Take your old with you when you have an hour to spare.

I have soldered the copper pipe. But the pipe from the transmission to pump got too bad, I cut out the bad section and ijoined it with hose. For the connection to the transmission you want some fresh compressible Cooper washers.

Damned if I will know what to do if the pipe from the pump to the thermostat ever goes bad. How to make those ridges on the end of the pipe?

[bobnlesley]

Originally Posted by hpeer

It’s a Johnson pump...want the seals and bearings...pretty common sizes IIRC.

Too long ago but I used to have the numbers for all the seals and bearings, as hpeer notes, if you take them to a decent bearing factor they'll easily match them all.

As for the exhaust manifold seal, just get a sheet of the approximate thickness of gasket material - I'm not sure what it's called, as I got ours in Turkey - and make your own using the old one as a template; I've done that for both the MD7A and our subsequent 3GM Yanmar and both have worked fine with a smear of blue hylomar on either face.

[gjordan]

A set of gasket cutting tools (they are just a bunch of punches) and a small variety of gasket materiel are a real useful bit of spare parts in the boats tool kit. Grant.

[aquafacts]

I have a good used raw water pump - I also have a MD7A for parts - sorry - exhaust manifold and pipes are gone.

[coastalexplorer]

I suppose that those of us who work with copper tend to think that everyone knows all the techniques? So I will write some points about the subject.


Copper is one of those metals that is changed to a softened workable condition by heating dull red or even cherry red with a propane torch, and then dunking it as quickly as possible into the coldest water available for a fierce quench.. Ice water preferred. This process should be repeated as often as required as the Copper: work hardens,



This actually also works for some stainless steels.


A copper pipe with a dent in it causing a constriction can be repaired with patience.
The process is to anneal it at the point of the damage, using the method described above, and then straighten it. Using a steel rod long enough to reach the dent/kink That has a diameter less than the bore. slightly shape the end round and slide it in until it contacts the restriction. gently drive the rod in with a hammer. once through use another rod the same as the bore diameter, spherical shape the end and repeat the process, lubricate it and drive it in. I have done this to a copper tube where the damage was 23" from the open end, I used three progressively larger rod diameters.



To provide the resistance, drill a hole in a block of hardwood the outside diameter of the copper tube, a much smaller hole almost adjacent to it. then make a saw cut through, this clamped on the end of the tube can provide the equal and opposite resistance.


to re-bend the copper, there are traditional methods for keeping it round.
internal springs to stop it collapsing. which are withdrawn afterwards.


there are also external springs which are not quite so effective,


other methods are to fill the tube with wax and cool it as much as possible before bending, variation on this is fine sifted sand. have not tried salt. For this method to work the ends have to be firmly plugged.


To fit one end of a copper pipe into another for soldering: A drift with a transition diameter from inside bore to out side diameter can be used. Gentle rapping on the side of the copper pipe will release it.



A similar tool with a spigot of the internal diameter radiating to a flat surface. can be used in a drill press or a lathe to create a flange using a process called 'spinning'.
Hold the tube in the wooden block, center it to the tool, use lots of lubricant, and lock everything down hard to prevent accidents and injury to hands/power the spindle at low RPM'S and apply inward pressure. and flange should begin to form.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by hpeer

It’s a Johnson pump. Not sure what you mean by “rebuild kit”. Do you also want the seals and bearings? I’ve bought them online, pretty common sizes IIRC.

I presume you have the silly push in type copper connectors? I have found those O ring washers at a Lowe’s/Home Depot faucet repair section. Take your old with you when you have an hour to spare.

I have soldered the copper pipe. But the pipe from the transmission to pump got too bad, I cut out the bad section and ijoined it with hose. For the connection to the transmission you want some fresh compressible Cooper washers.

Damned if I will know what to do if the pipe from the pump to the thermostat ever goes bad. How to make those ridges on the end of the pipe?

Yes, the outer seal is leaking. Old Man Mirage gave me the part number for the sealing rings and I found them on ebay along with the copper pipe. I guess there were 2 different pumps with the earlier model using bushings. They are both available on ebay but I have to determine which pump I have.

Thanks for your help.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by gjordan

A set of gasket cutting tools (they are just a bunch of punches) and a small variety of gasket materiel are a real useful bit of spare parts in the boats tool kit. Grant.

Good idea.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by aquafacts

I have a good used raw water pump - I also have a MD7A for parts - sorry - exhaust manifold and pipes are gone.

Thanks, I will let you know if I need it.
Dave

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by coastalexplorer

I suppose that those of us who work with copper tend to think that everyone knows all the techniques? So I will write some points about the subject.


Copper is one of those metals that is changed to a softened workable condition by heating dull red or even cherry red with a propane torch, and then dunking it as quickly as possible into the coldest water available for a fierce quench.. Ice water preferred. This process should be repeated as often as required as the Copper: work hardens,



This actually also works for some stainless steels.


A copper pipe with a dent in it causing a constriction can be repaired with patience.
The process is to anneal it at the point of the damage, using the method described above, and then straighten it. Using a steel rod long enough to reach the dent/kink That has a diameter less than the bore. slightly shape the end round and slide it in until it contacts the restriction. gently drive the rod in with a hammer. once through use another rod the same as the bore diameter, spherical shape the end and repeat the process, lubricate it and drive it in. I have done this to a copper tube where the damage was 23" from the open end, I used three progressively larger rod diameters.



To provide the resistance, drill a hole in a block of hardwood the outside diameter of the copper tube, a much smaller hole almost adjacent to it. then make a saw cut through, this clamped on the end of the tube can provide the equal and opposite resistance.


to re-bend the copper, there are traditional methods for keeping it round.
internal springs to stop it collapsing. which are withdrawn afterwards.


there are also external springs which are not quite so effective,


other methods are to fill the tube with wax and cool it as much as possible before bending, variation on this is fine sifted sand. have not tried salt. For this method to work the ends have to be firmly plugged.


To fit one end of a copper pipe into another for soldering: A drift with a transition diameter from inside bore to out side diameter can be used. Gentle rapping on the side of the copper pipe will release it.



A similar tool with a spigot of the internal diameter radiating to a flat surface. can be used in a drill press or a lathe to create a flange using a process called 'spinning'.
Hold the tube in the wooden block, center it to the tool, use lots of lubricant, and lock everything down hard to prevent accidents and injury to hands/power the spindle at low RPM'S and apply inward pressure. and flange should begin to form.

Thanks, some good info.

[Bill Seal]

The copper pipe on my MD11c, and probably your MD7, has the same OD as common 1/2" rigid copper pipe. Get sweat couplings and such at any plumbing supplier.