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Safari38LH · 19-04-2015, 14:02

Does anyone have any tips on framing and hanging artwork on a sailboats bulkheads? I am afraid drips and moisture will ruin anything I frame and heavy seas will throw it on the sole.

TIA

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**JPA Cate** · 19-04-2015, 14:34

Use blue tack, or double-sided tape, or screws to affix the framed picture.

Keep water out of the interior of the boat. Fix all leaks before mounting the pics. Train yourself to close the hatches and ports whenever you leave the boat, or make hatch dodgers for the hatches if you want to leave them open.

Good luck with it.

Ann

FamilyVan · 19-04-2015, 14:54

I have art work on my walls, not expensive stuff, but stuff I've come to be attached to looking at and wouldn't want ruined. As far as putting it up, I just used finishing nails like I would in a house, nothing to it.

Leaks shouldn't be a problem, my current boat is a 79, my previous a 74- in fact it was a leaky Grampian 30, which are notorious for there leaks. But even the leakiest boat should have plenty of dry places, otherwise where would you set up your computer or charge your cell phone? If you have a leaky boat (like my 74 G30) and don't have the time/budget to seal every leak, just find the dry areas for your art. Avoid areas around the main hatch, sky lights and any port lights that you know to be leaky. On most boats, the bulkhead between the V-birth and the salon is a very dry place, and a good place for displaying art.

My current old boat is a 79, I have had no need to seal any leaks, in fact, living aboard dockside, I actually had to run a humidifier to prevent nose bleeds and dry coughs.

If you have a boat that leaks EVERY WHERE, you have bigger problems than where to hang your artwork.

Matt Johnson · 19-04-2015, 15:05

We use double sided velcro on just about everything. No holes in bulkheads, secure and easy to pull down and put new photos in.

The Way · 19-04-2015, 17:57

I've never had good luck with double-sided tape. I wouldn't dream of trying it on framed art with glass. I use these:

Shop The Hillman Group 18-in Hangman Picture Hanging System at Lowes.com

The pictures have never budged even when falling off choppy seas.

Fair winds,
Jack

Red Sky · 19-04-2015, 21:21

We've had great success with 3M Command Strips. Very secure and they don't leave holes or any other damage to varnished surfaces when removed.

Pineridge · 20-04-2015, 07:46

When we lived in California, we purchased special picture hanging nails that were made specifically for hanging pics in earthquake areas. Works great for boat pics. Can't fall off .

budm303 · 20-04-2015, 08:23

[QUOTE=Safari38LH;1804450]Does anyone have any tips on framing and hanging artwork on a sailboats bulkheads? I am afraid drips and moisture will ruin anything I frame and heavy seas will throw it on the sole.

Use unframed, sized copies, sprayed water-proofed.

osirissail · 20-04-2015, 08:25

I have had artwork large and small on my sailboat for the last 24 years. And . . .
1. I found that using tiny thin wood/sheetmetal screws work well holding the frames to interior surface paneling or wall/bulkheads.
2. For large heavy pictures I made from scrap teak wood or plastic "starboard/kingboard" scraps - "L" shaped brackets that mimic the household plastic brackets for pictures, etc. I just have to plan that the thickness of the legs of the "L" shape are big enough to hold the wood screw that attaches the bracket to the wall/bulkhead - - and - - the other leg of the "L" is also thick/large enough to firmly press the picture frame to the boat's wall/bulkhead.

I have found that they both snap at the corner of the "L" shape if it is too small or not thick enough.

It is important that the large pictures be positively "clamped" to the wall/bulkhead so that the motion of the boat, which can sometimes be quite violent, does not rip the picture off the wall/bulkhead.

3. There is no way I have found that will stop mildrew or waterspots away from paper pictures, etc. You need glass or something to keep large pictures flat in their frames but smaller "matted prints" can be put up without actual frames. The small, thin screws through the "matt" portion work fine as the picture/print does not weigh much and the motion of the ocean doesn't dislodge them. I have had no problems with large pictures framed behind glass so long as the whole thing is firmly and tightly pressed against the wall/bulkhead.

4. The suggestion by other posters to keep the boat ventilated is important to keep mildrew and such from attacking the picture/print framed or unframed.

5. For knic-naks, sculpture, and other stuff that would normally just sit on a shelf in a land-house, I drill holes in the bottom/base and screw them down to the boat's shelf/surface. Same principle applies - attach them firmly to the boat's structure such that the motion of the ocean will not cause them to "fly" across the cabin. Sometimes I have to make custom retaining bars or brackets to hold the stuff to the boat. And this goes for such other stuff like TV's, monitors, computers, printers, amplifiers, speakers, etc, etc. I mentally design the hold down system so that I could imagine the boat being held upside-down and shaken and nothing comes loose.

shonorow · 20-04-2015, 08:55

I live in Fort Lauderdale, and my framing store knew exactly what I needed. You use two two part metal fasteners (one to the bulkhead, the other to the frame (one on top and one on the bottom). You have to be very precise in the mounting, because the male and female ends of the fasteners must fit together. Mine has been up for eight years now. No mold or anything; however, my boat is a Cabo Rico, and very dry.

Terra Nova · 20-04-2015, 09:54

This is an area in which you landlubbers need to think outside the box.

In museums, art galleries, the den in your house, all your art can be matted, even covered with glass, framed and hung in simple (a nail) practical ways that have served mankind forever. A boat should make you think along the lines of:

lightweight
compact/thin
durable
water-resistant (at least)

One favorite method I have used is to have Weldon Color Lab mount my photos on rigid aluminum backing; then apply clear film over the photo. Four squares of hook & loop, set in a 1/4" from the edge, secures the back of the mounted photo. So the whole thing sticks out <1/4" off your bulkhead. And they can easily be rearranged or replaced with other like-size photos.
Weldon Color Lab mounting and finishing

Additionally I have collected some lovely miniatures of marine life that the artist framed in split brass tube ~1/8" diameter. The glass must be around 1/16" thick. Some of these are only 2"-3" overall, though the largest may be >12". On these I use the smallest amount of double-stick foam tape, again set back from the edge, so you don't see it, but close enough that you can slide a razor knife in to slice the tape for removal.

Rhwins · 20-04-2015, 09:59

I read that a small hinge works, screw one side to the frame, then screw the other side to the bulkhead. The picture is to cover old screw holes from former owner, so it isn't like I am ruining a virgin teak surface.

I am thinking of using this as soon as my picture comes back from the framer. He suggested adding adhesive rubber or felt patches to the lower corners of the frame for dampening the swinging during pitching.