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Old 14-01-2016, 10:48   #16
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

More on LeTonkinois: Over forty years I have used almost every brand of marine varnish. This stuff makes varnishing easy. A primer from the distributor:
A Le Tonkinois Oil Application Guide by Bill Rickman

Le Tonkinois (Le TON-kin-wah)

Le Tonkinois is an all natural product that applies and maintains like an oil, but produces a rich and durable varnish finish.

Le Tonkinois is linseed oil and tung oil, combined with other tropical oils, cooked in a proprietary process to produce a unique varnish oil.

The Le Tonkinois formula was found by the French in Viet Nam 100 years ago, its true age is unknown. It is the official varnish of the French Navy.

Le Tonkinois should ALWAYS be used as it comes out of the can, from first coat to last. Solvents or thinners will degrade it, possibly to the point of ruining the job.

Le Tonkinois can be applied with any good quality brush, including foam brushes. It levels very easily.

Le Tonkinois needs very little sanding. Use a fine grit (220-320). I like to wet sand using a wiping motion. Sand only until the surface feels smooth. Le Tonkinois does not need to be sanded to adhere to itself, the sanding is used only to clean the surface. More sanding will only remove perfectly good varnish.

Generally, sanding is only needed after the first couple of coats. If the dry surface feels smooth, just wipe down with a water dampened rag (no solvents) to clean the surface, then apply the next coat.

Humidity does not affect Le Tonkinois.

Avoid applying to a hot surface, the hot wood can bubble the oils. If you must varnish during a hot summer afternoon, rig an awning.

Thin coats are better than thick coats, just cover the wood. Because there are no evaporating solvents, everything you put on the wood will stay there. Thin coats will build very quickly.

Le Tonkinois is very durable, but more coats are better than fewer. Approximately 6 coats give a good result, and since there is little or no sanding between coats they build up quickly.

Le Tonkinois can be used on decks, it will not be slippery.

Le Tonkinois is not brittle like synthetic varnish. It will not crack or peel, or allow water to get under the finish. It will ‘move’ with the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.

Le Tonkinois can be applied over other clean, well-sanded finishes, but the original finish next to the wood could still crack or peel.

To maintain, watch the finish. When the gloss becomes dull, clean the surface and apply one or two more coats. If this schedule is followed, stripping varnish will become part of your past.

Scratches and dings are easy to fix, just clean the surface and touch up. No need to feather, etc.

Like all natural products, Le Tonkinois will skin over in the can. For longer shelf life, it is recommended to decant into smaller containers filled as close as possible to the top.

Number One has a small amount of pure wood alcohol added to the formula. This produces a faster drying time, and extends the can life. But many prefer to stick with the undiluted Original formula, reasoning that the thicker varnish needs fewer coats (plus it comes in a slightly larger can for the same price).

Because Le Tonkinois is a very ‘green’ product, it is very popular for interior use. No noxious solvents evaporate into the cabin.

Le Tonkinois is tough, durable, amazingly beautiful and extremely user friendly. It provides a ‘professional’ finish with little effort, and...in my case anyway....even less talent.
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Old 14-01-2016, 11:07   #17
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

I'm in the middle of the same choices, old formica and wood in need of TLC. One recommendation for the formica cabinet fronts: get some "Chalkboard " paint and use it for one of the cabinet fronts. Best thing I ever did. Lists, projects, funny sayings- you name it. It just rolls on.

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Old 14-01-2016, 12:31   #18
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Chowdan, many good posts here so I won't reiterate what they have already recommended. What I want to post is about safety. Particularly about lung safety.


Sanding and finishing work can bring a dull boat to a Bristol and lovely end product. It really is very satisfying to see a nice sheen on wood. Nothing like grain and colors of wood that have been finished nicely.


Sawdust can get in your eyes and cause infections. Sawdust up the nose and into the lungs and sinus cavities can cause some serious lung and sinus infections. It can lead to long term lung health issues like bronchitis, emphysema, and cancer. It ain't no joke and it is not someone who is being a hypochondriac. Solvents, varnishes, and paints are also inherently dangerous to one's lung health.


So, take all of the necessary steps to keep you and your wife healthy by buying good respirators. You need two types of filters for your masks. One is just a particular matter filter that will keep that stuff out of your lungs. The other is a solvent filter that will keep those chemicals out of your lungs.


Also make sure you have decent gloves on when working with these things. Solvents can go straight through the skin and to the liver where they are detoxified.
Livers are extremely important to your well being as a human. Ever see anyone who is dying of cirrhosis (alcoholic big bellies)? You'll get the general idea how important they are.


Not trying to scare the pudding out of you. I really enjoy woodwork and finish work. Just be careful. Life is short anyways.
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Old 14-01-2016, 20:04   #19
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

You are getting some pretty good advice already but I would like to add a couple of points...

Cabin sole- find out if the teal is solid or a laminate before sanding too aggressively
Sanding- The secret to a quality job is good preparation of the teak- scraping, sanding and bleaching with oxalic acid if necessary. Also don't forget sanding lightly between coats. A true Bristol finish is at least 10 coats
Countertop- a nice white laminate is good enough for now
Settee Table- This is an area to splurge. Save up for a quality teak table with a drop leaf. Maybe do an inlay table or laminate on an old fashioned map of the world. Apply many coats of varnish or a thick epoxy covering. This is the centerpiece of your boat.

Go slow and do quality work. You will get a lot of satisfaction from this work

Good luck
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Old 16-01-2016, 00:17   #20
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chowdan View Post
Hey everyone,

The girlfriend and I have been wanting to do some remodeling aboard our '76 Bristol 27. The table in the settee and the counter tops are a god aweful yellow laminate(or formica?).

We are wanting to redo the counter tops with something different. I was thinking of just redoing with just a laminate.

The base of the counters, the bulkhead walls are all wood, but the varnish on them is very bad looking and the cabin sole also needs refinishing.

We are wanting to get that "yacht finish" look to our wood aboard, the smooth, high shine appearance.

As for the cabin sole, we were thinking since the wood is very stained and dark, we'll clean it up and sand it down and then we'll have to apply some sort of clear coat to protect it as its its teak over marine ply.

Anyone ahve any recommendations on where we should look or guides on how to redo the wood to get it to shine like new?
Epifanes.

Final coat on teak sole should be matte. (Gloss finish is slippery when wet.)

Full disclosure: I sell and apply marine finishes professionally. This is free advice and not intended to solicit business.

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About Sheen Marine
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Old 16-01-2016, 07:57   #21
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Family has a boatyard and we solicit business all the time. Would add to the matte finish about adding fids to the table. Really necessary if you are going to use the table at sea.
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Old 19-01-2016, 13:18   #22
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

For interior finish look at Sherman Williams, they have a product called white varnish, 2-part. excellent, dries fast and easy to spray. for exterior look at Awlgrip Awlbright.
Great product but expensive. Lasts much longer than varnish. Both dries fast so you can get multiple coats on in one day.
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Old 19-01-2016, 14:27   #23
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Try MinWax Tung Oil. No brush needed. Sets up hard. Gives a deep luster to wood. We use it on our danish teak furniture for years. Used it for our boats' interiors. No need to sand. Try it. Very water resistant
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Old 19-01-2016, 14:41   #24
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

I see you are in Seattle, therefore probably a Shilshole dweller. I have recently been giving a series of talks at Corinthian Yacht Club and also Puget Sound Cruising Club. My next talk at CYC will be on Brightwork. Show up and I'll answer any and all questions, in the flesh.
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Old 19-01-2016, 14:52   #25
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Quote:
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I see you are in Seattle, therefore probably a Shilshole dweller. I have recently been giving a series of talks at Corinthian Yacht Club and also Puget Sound Cruising Club. My next talk at CYC will be on Brightwork. Show up and I'll answer any and all questions, in the flesh.
Thanks! Our boats over in Port of Everett, on the waitlist for a Shishole slip currently though.

Ill have to look up the CYC and hopefully make it!
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Old 19-01-2016, 16:15   #26
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Re: "Yacht finished" wood work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chowdan View Post
Thanks! Our boats over in Port of Everett, on the waitlist for a Shishole slip currently though.

Ill have to look up the CYC and hopefully make it!


That'll be Feb. 4th, 7:00 PM @ CYC. Happy to put you on the guest list if you PM me your name. Have fun!
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