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Old 06-01-2006, 12:01   #1
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Woodworking Help?? Buler? Buler? :)

Afternoon, everyone.

I have got a lot of the boat re-finished, but fear I may slip on schedule to be ready for some spring charters if I don't figure out a way to increase my stripping speed.

Currently, I'm sanding and it's taking too long.

Has anyone used a 2-part chemical stripper to remove varnish and any underlying stain from teak? I need some advice on what to use.

I also have on section I finished that I'm not happy with (I applied too much teak sealer) and I'd like to strip it down and re-apply.

What's the most powerful stuff I can use to quickly rip off any finishes on the teak?


PS: After a chemical stripper, is there any need for sanding other than a light once-over with a fine grit to smooth it out?

Thanks (once again!) for your infinite wisdom!
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Old 06-01-2006, 15:38   #2
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Sean,

I haven't used a two-part product, but I have found the Circa 1850 Furniture stripper works well. They also have a less toxic "Soft Stripper" but I can't vouch for its effectiveness. Depending on the thickness of the finish or number of previous layers, you may have to repeat the process. If I remember right the instructions have you wipe off the residue with a wet rag (either water or varsol). Light sand, tack rag it and you're good to go.

Kevin
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Old 06-01-2006, 15:40   #3
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Excellent. Thanks so much, Kevin. I'll give the stuff a try.
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Old 06-01-2006, 15:41   #4
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I like Zipstrip it bleaches as it strips. But unless the finish is damaged why strip it? A couple of refreasher coats should bring the finish back very nicely.
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Old 06-01-2006, 15:51   #5
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Quote:
irwinsailor once whispered in the wind:
I like Zipstrip it bleaches as it strips. But unless the finish is damaged why strip it? A couple of refreasher coats should bring the finish back very nicely.
Thanks, Gunner.

I'll try that one as well. I want to get one that really works well (as in removes everything from the teak in 30 seconds flat). ha ha Or at least one that works reasonably well.

I have to strip because this finish is junk for our concept. Check out these photos. I think they say it all:

Here is how the boat came to me:

http://cruisersforum.com/photopost//...t=7&thecat=500

Here is what it looks like as I move through it re-finishing:

http://cruisersforum.com/photopost//...t=7&thecat=500

It's very important to achieve perfection for us.. we have people who expect only the best as customers.
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Old 06-01-2006, 16:04   #6
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Sean - I'm sorry but the pictures aren't telling me what your vision is - I'm just a dumb sailor after all Are you trying give the teak a blonde finish?

Kevin
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Old 06-01-2006, 16:25   #7
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Hi Kevin,

The pictures represent what the wood looks like before I re-finish it (the first link) and what it looks like after I refinish it (the second link). I have already re-finished a great deal of the boat.

The problem is that I am running low on time, and need to have the entire boat done (including other projects) by April.

Sanding the old varnish and reddish color off the teak will not allow me to meet the date. It is simply too time consuming. That is now clear. I need a faster way to remove the finish old varnish and reddish color.

Hope that's more clear.

We are in the middle of refinishing the entire boat, and the end result is what you see in the 2nd photo. Natural teak, not varnished or stained or anything.
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Old 06-01-2006, 16:48   #8
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Roger that. I think most "teak oils" tend to impart a darker or redder finish to the wood. You might try the water-based varathane - it is clear and doesn't yellow. It's waterproof once cured. I don't know how well it holds up on teak - teak is oily; part of its appeal on board, but if you went to a specialty woodworking shop, they might give you a good idea. There are also some products made for bleaching wood; again I don't know how well they work on teak or what the final colour would be. Test in an inconspicuous spot.

K
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Old 08-01-2006, 12:03   #9
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Question If I may add another common problem to the list

I have a wammy on the rounded edge of one of my counters. (Dropped a crescent wrench through the gangway)

I don't want to fill it because it'll still look like a wammy. I've heard that if one steams it the dent will come out. Also soaking with a wet rag is suppose to work. I've tried both with no success. If I sand it down it'll leave a nice dip in the edge.

Any suggestions out there???????????
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Old 08-01-2006, 14:54   #10
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Sean,

Correct me if I am wrong, but the finish appears to be old varnish. Old varnish becomes brittle with age. I would use cut glass to scrape the old finish off. Done carefully, it will remove the finish in record time with no chemical mess to contend with. The most difficult part is to ensure that you don't cut yourself. I tape the holding side of the piece of glass. When the scraping edge becomes dull, scribe a new line ( a couple of inches back)with a glass cutter and break the edge to form a new cutting edge. Odd sized and shaped tools to get into corners may be fashioned from broken shards of suitable size.
The glass scraping will leave the surface ready for a new finish.
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Old 08-01-2006, 14:58   #11
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Delmarrey

Soak a clean cloth with water and put it on the damaged edge and let it soak into the wood. Using an electric iron, just as you would press a shirt, apply the iron to the cloth. This will drive the steam into the wood and raise the dent. It may take several applications if the dent is deep.
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Old 08-01-2006, 15:27   #12
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whammy

Delmarrey,

Jentine beat me to this one - I second his solution with an addition. For this to work the water has to get well into the wood, so you may need to remove the finish on the dent and use a solvent to remove all waxes and oils. Don't be shy with the water and good luck.

Kevin
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Old 08-01-2006, 16:09   #13
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delmarrey -
In 30 years of wood on land, we never have much luck with the old wet steam solution. Other options are -
1. dutchman
2. redo entire edge with router using bit that with set new angle removing your hideous slip.
3. sand a little divot and let it go. - adds to the overall "character" of the yacht - also allows the invention of a good story to explain the dent.

Larry
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Old 08-01-2006, 16:35   #14
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Stripping wood

If you can remove any of the wood you can take it to some of the auto body shops and pay to have it soda blasted.

Have not done the above but a marina owner saw me sanding some teak and suggested the above.
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Old 08-01-2006, 17:03   #15
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Re: Sean,

Quote:
Jentine once whispered in the wind:
Correct me if I am wrong, but the finish appears to be old varnish. Old varnish becomes brittle with age. I would use cut glass to scrape the old finish off. Done carefully, it will remove the finish in record time with no chemical mess to contend with. The most difficult part is to ensure that you don't cut yourself. I tape the holding side of the piece of glass. When the scraping edge becomes dull, scribe a new line ( a couple of inches back)with a glass cutter and break the edge to form a new cutting edge. Odd sized and shaped tools to get into corners may be fashioned from broken shards of suitable size.
The glass scraping will leave the surface ready for a new finish.
Wow!! I would have never thought of that. I just bought a gallon of "Extra Strength Stripper" (ACE Hardware Brand), and it works using 2 coats. Toxicity is extremely high. Also bought a fan to push some nice, cold winter air through the boat while I'm working (increasing the stripper's time to work). So if the glass idea works, it will be a godsend. Thanks!
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