I've had the same setup with a home brewed wireless controller and never had an issue so the configuration *should* work ok. Could be a faulty remote unit as one would expect the windlass
to turn off and on in relation to the solenoid (did you mean contactor?) operation. However, if the wiring
was undersized or there is a bad connection somewhere in the circuit, the initial amperage surge of the windlass motor
starting could drop the voltage to the point where it makes either the contactor drop out or the wireless interface spit the beans. Hard to grab a transient voltage drop without a CRO, but attaching a filament light bulb (aka test lamp) to the circuit should provide a visual indication of just how much the voltage is dropping when the windlass kicks in.