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Old 16-04-2012, 20:38   #1
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Windlass Starboard Platform

Do you think 3/4" starboard is appropriate for a windlass platform? I know it's not structural but thought it would work in a sandwich application like this.
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Old 16-04-2012, 20:55   #2
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Re: windlass starboard platform

I think it would depend on the whole installation. If using the Starboard as a platform on top of the deck and assuming the deck to be in good condition, bolting through the starboard AND the deck to a large backing plate underneath then yes.

Other considerations.

Is the deck cored where you want to mount the windlass? If yes, I would consider removing the core or at least reinforcing the area. Also make really sure that holes through the core are sealed. Best way is to overdrill the holes, fill with epoxy and redrill to the desired diameter.
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Old 17-04-2012, 05:23   #3
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Re: windlass starboard platform

The deck is cored with 3/4" marine plywood and the underside of the whole forward part of the deck is backed up with glassed in 3/4" marine plywood acting as a backing plate for the cleats and windlass.
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Old 17-04-2012, 07:47   #4
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Re: windlass starboard platform

Sounds like the strength and rididity is there but I would still add a stainless backing plate under the bolts. Problem with plywood is over time the nuts and washers will compress the wood, especially in a damp marine environment.

A large stainless plate will help spread the load and keep the plywood whole. At the very least a very, very large fender washer next to the plywood.
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Old 18-04-2012, 11:22   #5
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Re: windlass starboard platform

I'm interested in this as I am putting a mounting pad under my chain stopper just forward of my windlass. I was considering using Starboard, also known as HDPE. On doing some research, I found that HDPE doesn't do as well under compression as a hardier plastic like UHMW. This stuff is used as compression pads underneath keel steps among other uses. Super hard-core stuff. McMaster Carr carries it and it's not really any more expensive than Starboard. That's the direction I was going to go but then M/C doesn't ship it out for 2 weeks and I need it sooner than that.

So... I'm going to build the base out of G10 fiberglass instead which should also handle the high compression load of a chain stopper pretty well. Hopefully G10 will withstand UV. If not, I'll eventually replace the mounting pad with UHMW.

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Old 18-04-2012, 12:26   #6
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Re: windlass starboard platform

Quote:
Originally Posted by janders View Post
I'm interested in this as I am putting a mounting pad under my chain stopper just forward of my windlass. I was considering using Starboard, also known as HDPE. On doing some research, I found that HDPE doesn't do as well under compression as a hardier plastic like UHMW. This stuff is used as compression pads underneath keel steps among other uses. Super hard-core stuff. McMaster Carr carries it and it's not really any more expensive than Starboard. That's the direction I was going to go but then M/C doesn't ship it out for 2 weeks and I need it sooner than that.

So... I'm going to build the base out of G10 fiberglass instead which should also handle the high compression load of a chain stopper pretty well. Hopefully G10 will withstand UV. If not, I'll eventually replace the mounting pad with UHMW.

Jason
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Hi Jason,

I used UHMWPE to rebuild my mast step. Got it from onlinemetals.com. They have a wide variety of sizes and ship promptly.
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Old 19-04-2012, 15:59   #7
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Re: windlass starboard platform

My windlass was mounted on a deck of marine ply sandwiched between FRP skins. The windlass bolts were bedded and backed with little stainless steel plates or washers, but stupidly the hole for the wires was just cut and the plywood left exposed. Although it was under the windlass and at first sealed, eventually it got wet and ALL the plywood under the windlass rotted. I noticed this one day when watching the windlass pull the deck up when taking in the anchor. I removed the windlass, cut a big square in the top skin and removed all the rotted wood. Dryed it all and filled the hole with layers of glass and epoxy, and faired it all smooth. I also sourced an approx 12" x 12" piece of 3/8" thick aluminum. Had holes cut into it to match the windlass holes (4 bolts, chain hole and wire hole). Also made my own larger SS backing plates. Epoxy painted the plate white before reinstalling. Bedded the plate and windlass, sealed it all and bolted it all together. Perhaps a bit of overkill but now totally bulletproof. You could use starboard but I think glass and metal is better. Don't forget the TefGel where the bolts go through the aluminum windlass body.
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