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Old 21-07-2009, 09:04   #1
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Windlass Installation

I am installing the new windlass on my boat. Of course nothing is flat. I have gotten it to the point where there is about 1/8" gap on each side and it touches the deck fore and aft. On the old windlass there was a rubbery substance below the windlass that filled that gap. It was a pain to take off but it never leaked. I am thinking of building the area up a little using the West Systems Epoxy and some filler (I have the silica) I don't think that I can get rid of the gap completely but it will be closer. Another alternative would be to use the rubbery stuff and to place some stainless washers under the bolt pattern to lend a little structural support. I assume that the main load on the windlass would be trying to shear the bolts off rather than a downward pressure. Anybody have some thoughts on this?
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Old 21-07-2009, 09:29   #2
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Is 1/8" too small to make some shims out of Starboard?
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Old 21-07-2009, 10:28   #3
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Is 1/8" too small to make some shims out of Starboard?
It would b a pretty small shim I could do it at home with a table saw but not here on the boat.
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Old 21-07-2009, 11:04   #4
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I faced the exact same problem on my catalina 38 installation. I went under the deck and secured some starboard under the windless with some long-and-strong to give the deck some more thickness so the bolts would have less tendency to "work" on the deck and then used stainless washers as you suggested, sealed with urethane. The installation has been very satisfactory.
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Old 21-07-2009, 12:42   #5
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Quote:
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I faced the exact same problem on my catalina 38 installation. I went under the deck and secured some starboard under the windless with some long-and-strong to give the deck some more thickness so the bolts would have less tendency to "work" on the deck and then used stainless washers as you suggested, sealed with urethane. The installation has been very satisfactory.
Ditto!

But I epoxied a thin sheet of acetal plastic to the deck that was cut out the same shape as the winch and then using a flat board sanded it flat, cut and drilled holes and wala!
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Old 21-07-2009, 12:53   #6
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The problem is when you epoxy something to the deck you are married to that shape in the future.

Better to use a block of teak fair to the shape of the deck with the top level and set it with something like 4200 which can be removed and acts like a gasket.
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Old 21-07-2009, 12:55   #7
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The washers and the 5200 or other polyurethane might work, getting shims to fit is going to be a pain and require bedding anyway. I wouldnt go to the trouble to make the epoxy bed for the windlass... Seems to me Polyurethane is actually a better solution. Or make the usual teak base plate or starboard. Use a 4" disc grinder to gradually fit the curve of the deck if you are good with one. These would provide some "cushion" against stress cracks in the deck... If you go with the 5200 etc, it will harden enough to actually do something other than fill the gap... just barely tighten the windlass down hand tight until the 5200 sets up then tighten it good. You might want to try some wax on the bottom of the windlass in case you ever have to take it off! I would probably go with the teak, UHMW or Starboard base plate.
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Old 22-07-2009, 04:59   #8
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Just thought....what about gasket rubber? It comes in varying thicknesses. I've used it in the HVAC trade for similar situations, not that ther are a lot of windlass' in HVAC, but equipment that needs to stay in place on not the best surfaces and different pump to flange matchings.

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Old 22-07-2009, 09:01   #9
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Most of the rubbers will deteriorate in the sun getting pretty ugly. There may be some UV resistant ones....?
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Old 22-07-2009, 09:02   #10
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I had to send to NZ to get the bolts that I have. I searched all around the US and Cnada and could not find a M10 bolt with a 1.0 pitch in stainless. I was thus limited to shimming. I decided to use the epoxy since I had to fill the old hause pipe hole. I'll post pictures when I am done.
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Old 22-07-2009, 10:10   #11
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Just about to do major rebuild of my windlass area - some bozo used two mild steel washers and two stainless ones (steel boat), leading to some serious galvanic and rust issues. And the Lighthouse is slipping... and there's no chain grabber.

Anyway, I wanted to pass on a bit of advice: bond the windlass bolts poking up from inside the boat, not the more intuitive down-through-the-deck way. Theory is that when you have to take it off someday, breaking the seals to remove the bolts will create much more work than if it's simply mounted to four studs sticking up.

(Changing mine to this method.)

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Old 22-07-2009, 11:20   #12
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I have a similar problem in my csy 44 , the deck is not flat, a woodshop in trinidad made for my windlass a 3 inch teak base countour with the deck, dificult to macht the angle , and the litle gap betwen the base and the the deck is filled with epoxy, also under the deck there is a huge aluminium backing plate , all with big stainless screws and fender washers.
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Old 22-07-2009, 12:32   #13
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It is installed and it works. Now I need to have the chain untwisted. That is a job for the next trip. I'll ask how people do that in the near future.
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Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness
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Old 30-07-2009, 11:14   #14
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Quote:
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It is installed and it works. Now I need to have the chain untwisted. That is a job for the next trip. I'll ask how people do that in the near future.
Hi Charlie,
I'm another doing windlass work.
Any chance you can post some pic's of your install?

Thanks,
Extemp.
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Old 30-07-2009, 11:37   #15
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I am going to the boat next week Monday and can take s then.
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Fair Winds,

Charlie

Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness
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