Windlass Foot switches, remote, or hand switch for new windlass

[CarinaPDX]

The problem with a "lighter gauge" charging cable is that it must have the current limited, usually through a DC-DC battery charger. To connect a small(ish) cable directly from the house bank and alternator risks drawing a high current down that cable, particularly if the windlass battery is low or nearing end-of-life. There are cases where placing a battery in the bow makes sense, but for smaller boats I don't see it justified. Running heavy battery cables is a one time job, only a little more difficult than running light cables for charging, and once done it is simple and robust - not to mention maintaining and replacing that extra battery. Do spend some time thinking about this.


Greg

[Argyle38]

I think we've chatted before, maybe over on the Downeaster web page. I have the same windlass install on pretty much the same bow (32 and 38 are very similar).

I opted to install both foot switches and a remote up/down switch in the cockpit. I thought about a handheld remote but I figured that was just something else to keep track of or break. The foot switches are very simple. Down side is you do have to drill two large holes in your deck. The remote switch in the cockpit was optional but it makes it so I can operate more smoothly when singlehanding. Using the remote cockpit switch also means I can position the anchor more precisely, a useful thing in on a breezy day in a tight anchorage.

I opted to put the foot switches on the opposite side from the chain gypsy. This was so I would be clear of the running machinery when operating the windlass. I don't have any pictures of the installation, but here is a picture of the holes where I installed the switches.



This is just to port of the bowsprit and windlass. You can see the cable gland on the upper right. Here's a wide shot of the same location, before the holes were drilled.





I actually made a mistake here and put the cable gland too far aft. Where it is in this picture is where a hawse-pipe for a port side anchor rode would go. If I ever add a port side anchor, I'll have to move the cable gland forward. Just one of those things I didn't think about.

You mentioned the wiring. I have this shot of a simple schematic for the wiring of the foot switches that I think was attached to the control solonoid. Wiring up the remote cockpit switch is just a matter of running a parallel set of wires (labeled red, blue and brown here) to a single-pole double-throw momentary switch in the cockpit.



Good luck.

[colinalleck]

enjoy the new winch

I single hand sail an S&S34

I have up/down foot buttons at the bow
as well as up down switch in cockpit

I have found this combination it gives me the most options for the myriad of anchoring situations you can experience and also redundancy of control.

regarding installation go to the Muir Winch website for installation guidance

regards

Col

[RaymondR]

Foot switches at the bow and hand switches at the helm position if you are single handing, you will use both in various different circumstances. Make sure that one of the foot switches is positioned so that you can switch it whilst handling ropes on the windlass drum.

[Tillsbury]

I don’t like foot switches because of possible water ingress, accidental standing on them, never in exactly the right place in all situations. I use a wired remote at the bow which lives tucked away in the anchor locker, and have an up/down switch at the helm. I almost always use the helm controls, but the bow ones are nice when tweaking and to let out or bring in the last bit after the snubber is attached (when I’m staying more than a few hours or in any kind of weather). I always anchor singlehanded.