Windlass Foot switches, remote, or hand switch for new windlass

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes you are right might as well have a down if it’s available..I see like the one Paul posted there’s a hand held with a flashlight attached. I’m gonna go for that. It has up and down .I guess I’ll just hang it on the bow rail. Get the old singer out a make a little sunbrella cover for it..now to the wash down........? Any takers haha

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Yes you are right might as well have a down if it’s available..I see like the one Paul posted there’s a hand held with a flashlight attached. I’m gonna go for that. It has up and down .I guess I’ll just hang it on the bow rail. Get the old singer out a make a little sunbrella cover for it..now to the wash down........? Any takers haha

I would not hang this outside. Bows can get a wee bit rough at times. Mine is mounted just inside the forward deck hatch below. The cable is long enough to stretch out of the hole.

[Allied39]

So i would say I have a different setup than the original post.

I have an awsome split anchor locker I built when rebuilding the boat.
I took her down to bare hull,,,,no bulkheads no deck.

I was lucky to get advice from a friend who recommended the lofrans tigres and also the advantage of a bow or anchor locker opening to the deck.

One thing I had no interest in was my chain sitting just fwd of my v berth, especially after being on the hook for a while. Stink a bit me think.

I can see how much of my 220 ft of chain is out and how much is still there, pretty much, so no need to mark my chain.

I have plenty of room for misc needed items, such as my control switch (which I , like others, made myself) and washdown hose.

When raising my anchor I can easily get my boat moving by pulling in the chain a few feet at a time, she moves on forward no problem. I do not have a huge wind stopping barge though, so if I did I dare say I would have to do things differently.

My wash down is fed from the same thru hull that supplies the head. Located in the head beside my holding tank and a hose run up into the anchor locker.

As for your question why a down switch....I simply don't know. Others likely to be able to give enlightenment. I can however say in 15 years I have never had the thought "gee, wish I had a down switch"

I think if I had no anchor locker I would use one of the flush deck water connectors. I might consider a up foot switch if it was my only choice....but would hate to do so and would be very very sure I put it in the best possible place...if that existed.

Hope this helps.
No, not arguing with anybody about anything....I am sure you are right.

[chris in SG]

There's another good thread specifically on foot switches. Someone points out, very accurately, that a switch constantly exposed to rain, salt spray and sun is a tough design brief.


If I was starting a new windlass installation, I would avoid foot switches totally. I've had plenty of problems with the typical low amp switches which use a microswitch. Sooner or later, moisture gets inside the microswitch and then the end is nigh. Better to buy foot switches designed for use without a solenoid, even if you still use a solenoid, because these are genuinely heavy duty. Better still, use a wired remote like the Quick version shown in an earlier post. In most cases, the connector socket can be located inside the chain locker, with the remote hand-held mounted on a bracket (supplied) also inside the chain locker, away from the worst of the weather.

[billknny]

Another set of thoughts, and what works for us:

When we drop the anchor, the helmsman is in charge. He knows where the boat is and where it is going to stop. Having a windlass control and chain counter in the cockpit is a great help.

When we weigh anchor, the bow crew is in charge because he can see exactly what is happening. A handheld remote control allows looking out over the rail to see what's coming up. The remote attaches to a socket in a bow locker, and is unplugged when not in use.

Deck mounted switches are subject to all kinds of failures, human and mechanical. We ditched ours in favor of the handheld.

If we HAD to chose one, the handheld remote at the bow would be the only obvious choice.

[Simi 60]

I got rid of the foot switches and use a wireless $15 eBay winch remote
Works perfectly and for us a huge improvement.
Still have toggle switch up/down at helm.

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes thank you all. How about the lofrans suggestion of #2 wire and a 110 amp breaker. Most retailers have the motor rated at 80 to 130 amps. I’m gonna have about 30 ft run.... and I’m recoreing the whole entire bow before the sprit goes down a locker could be made but then I won’t have the proper fall for the chain.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Lofrans website says the 12v 1500 watt recommends 110amp breaker. And the wire size is 2guage....But its rated at 80 to 130 amp draw..so I should get a 130 amp breaker and larger wire ? against what the manufacturer recommends doesn’t seem logical.....but you never know with these marine company’s.....don’t get me started on raymarine and their confusion.....

I would not, I would stay with the recommend breaker.
Realize of course that a 110 amp breaker can hold considerable more than 110 for a short while, the 110 is its continuous rating, it can go to 200 or more for a short while.
Look at the trip time in seconds for the discontinued Blue Sea 110 amp breaker.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/old/7107

Larger wire is always better, however how large depends on distance of course.

[Scott Berg]

We've learned that one of the joys of a windlass with a reversing solenoid is that you don't have to choose; we have an up/down at the helm with a chain counter, a wireless remote, and up/down foot switches; they all parallel to the same relay. Each has it's advantages at different times... why limit yourself?

[zboss]

Originally Posted by Scott Berg

We've learned that one of the joys of a windlass with a reversing solenoid is that you don't have to choose; we have an up/down at the helm with a chain counter, a wireless remote, and up/down foot switches; they all parallel to the same relay. Each has it's advantages at different times... why limit yourself?

I agree.... we have foot switches and a wireless. We mostly use the foot switches but if one of them were to fail we have the wireless.

[roverhi]

Went with a wired remote for the windlass. Think the foot switches are dangerous and can be hard to actuate on a pitching deck.

Have to have the down control on my Lewmar windlass. If I let the anchor free fall the centrifugal force as the chain spins around the gypsy will cause it to jam.

[stormalong]

I have a wireless control with wired handheld for backup. Also, definitely wire up and down controls. I don't like unnecessary holes in the deck. I also have a washdown pump and depending on the quantity or mud coming up with the chain I can be a good distance from the chain, control it's rise and wash it at the same time. No need to be glued to a specific spot to control the windlass.

From the helm I can position the boat to where I want to drop. Even in strong wind or current I can be pretty precise. Holding the boat in position I drop the anchor and lay out enough chain to touch bottom. Then I can leave the helm to walk forward and continue to lay out chain as I go forward and the boat drifts aft.

To raise anchor the admiral is usually on the helm following my hand signals and I am up forward watching the chain come up.

PS. Don't leave the anchor load on the windlass. Use an elastic snubber with a chain stopper as backup. Windlasses are not designed for shock loads and sooner or later you will find yourself in a rough anchorage.

[SofiaB]

I have a Quick HRC 1002 controller as I upgraded to a chain counter model. Simple two button, rugged, waterproof, with holder, instructions, box... used just a few times. Make offer.

[Red Sky]

Originally Posted by SofiaB

I have a Quick HRC 1002 controller as I upgraded to a chain counter model. Simple two button, rugged, waterproof, with holder, instructions, box... used just a few times. Make offer.

PM sent.

[KeithB]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

I got rid of the foot switches and use a wireless $15 eBay winch remote
Works perfectly and for us a huge improvement.
Still have toggle switch up/down at helm.

Simi, I too installed the exact same wireless remotes from ebay.
I was stoked, 2 remotes, can operate from anywhere on the boat, what could possibly go wrong?
First time at anchor, sitting in saloon, strange noise... the windlass coming on, just for a few seconds but enough to pull tight on my secondary snubber (we are a cat with bridle).
Long story short the bloody thing would activate the windlass at random, even though both remotes turned off. Ended up having to turn windlass off at breaker after each time anchored. Now removed wireless remotes and gone back ro trusty Quick wired remote.
Probably great for 4WD winches for which they are intended but not reliable for anchor windlass.