Windlass Direction control

[dnimigon]

Somewhere I saw in the list but can't find it and hoping someone can direct me is our windlass has the foot switch for pulling in the anchor. I recently overhauled the unit and put on a new deck switch and solenoid. Everything works fine but I did see at one time where you can use two deck switches and I thought 2 solenoids so you can use one to lower and one to raise the anchor. Can someone direct me to the link or thread or at least the wiring diagram that would work.

[wsulli]

I believe it is 2 switches and 1 solenoid. If you have 2 wires ,1 goes to one switch the other to the second switch and a neutral from the case to each switch. I think that is how I did mine but it was a long time ago.

[AnchorageGuy]

You will need two deck switches and a reversing solenoid. If your windlass happens to be a free-fall type, it may not work with a reversing solenoid. Chuck

[dnimigon]

sounds familiar as I remember seeing. No it's not a free fall windlass. Basically hand over hand on the down, then use the windlass to bring her up. I know I saw the wiring diagram somewhere and they had a couple different options depending on what you were doing. I'll keep looking. Maybe someone online here will chirp in with one.

[Cheechako]

Does your windlass have 3 large poles on t he motor?

[dnimigon]

No just 2 poles

[Terra Nova]

IIRC many windlasses are not reversible.

[Cheechako]

hmmm... well, it's a DC motor so reversing the wires will run it in reverse right? So you need switching that does that.... Here's Nigel Calder's diagram.

[pollyvon]

One extremely important part of any powered winch (or windless) is the solenoid (relay). I am concerned whenever I use a solenoid controlled winch due to a previous bad experience. My solenoid's contacts stuck closed and the solenoid control switch could not stop the winch motor. It was a mad scramble to get to the winch circuit breaker to stop the errant winch and prevent serious damage to life and property.

This only happened to me once, because after that harrowing experience (trying to get to the circuit breaker while the winch is still running) I installed a kill switch that would disable all power to the winch and was easily accessible by the user.

When you add solenoids to any winch project, ensure the contacts can handle the load current without sticking. Even properly sized solenoids, can become pitted from use which results in unexpected sticking.

I cringe each time I see someone lowering a mast to step it with a solenoid controlled winch. This would be a very nasty time for a solenoid to stick! You may want to consider placing a safety watch person at the circuit breaker for that winch. Ignorance is bliss until it becomes an accident.

[Blue Stocking]

Originally Posted by pollyvon

One extremely important part of any powered winch (or windless) is the solenoid (relay). I am concerned whenever I use a solenoid controlled winch due to a previous bad experience. My solenoid's contacts stuck closed and the solenoid control switch could not stop the winch motor. It was a mad scramble to get to the winch circuit breaker to stop the errant winch and prevent serious damage to life and property.

This only happened to me once, because after that harrowing experience (trying to get to the circuit breaker while the winch is still running) I installed a kill switch that would disable all power to the winch and was easily accessible by the user.

When you add solenoids to any winch project, ensure the contacts can handle the load current without sticking. Even properly sized solenoids, can become pitted from use which results in unexpected sticking.

I cringe each time I see someone lowering a mast to step it with a solenoid controlled winch. This would be a very nasty time for a solenoid to stick! You may want to consider placing a safety watch person at the circuit breaker for that winch. Ignorance is bliss until it becomes an accident.

+1 VERY sound advice

[Blue Stocking]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

hmmm... well, it's a DC motor so reversing the wires will run it in reverse right? So you need switching that does that.... Here's Nigel Calder's diagram.

Why then, do manufacturers state reversible or non-reversing ? Why not then offer either as options ?