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Old 10-05-2004, 06:45   #1
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What Is the Best Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint

What bottom paint lasts the longest in salt water?
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Old 10-05-2004, 08:00   #2
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Down here in NE Florida "Petit Trinidad SR" seems to be the gold standard. I did speak with one gentleman who said he adds cayenne pepper to cheap bottom paint and it works great.
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Old 14-05-2004, 15:55   #3
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Just as a tale of interest, we have some scientist guy's working on a new anti-foul down here. They are playing with the toxins that Algale (spell??) blooms produce. I would imagine it will be awhile before we see any if any results though.
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Old 15-05-2004, 13:36   #4
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A lot matters on the water temperature. in warmer water you need a lot more active ingredient. Florida is a good place for the bottom paint torture test<g>. Lots of f9lks around here also like Trinidad SR too. It's clearly not the cheap stuff.
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Old 27-07-2004, 18:32   #5
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Longevity of the paint depends on many factors including water temperature and how frequently the boat get's used. Trinidad is tops here in SW FL (water temp in my marina was 92* today!) .... but the Petit rep tells me that their new "Vivids" paint will give it a real run for it's money. No cuprous oxide ... uses two types of biocides (great news for people with metal hulls) they have tested it on power & sailboats at FMB for more than 2 years, with good results .... and .... it comes in bright rainbow colors. Plan to do my bottom job in bright yellow to mach the canvas!
Bob
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Old 28-07-2004, 10:52   #6
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I used Interlux CSC (ablative) for years until I wised up and realized that I was scrubbing away $$ every time I tried to get grass off (Bahamas) or all that stuff that grows in the creeks in SC. I changed to Trinidad SR a few years ago and have never looked back. I guess an ablative is ok if you never stop moving but I find a hard paint much more practical.

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Old 28-07-2004, 11:11   #7
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6 years ago we put on 7 full wet coats of Petet ACP 50. 2 coats black and then 5 coats of blue. The thought was Haul out when we see black or the paint quits working. I thought 2 to 3 years at best. We have yet to see black and still no growth. We do move around alot.and dive on the boat to check/change zincs. And yes there is some soft growth at the water line but it sluffs off the minute we get underway. We did add cayanne pepper and Tetracycline to the paint. (Couldn't hurt right?)as advised by an old local salt. I'm not saying whats the best, just our own experiance , without any hearsay .
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Old 28-07-2004, 11:58   #8
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No VD there

Well, for sure your "soft waterline growth" should be venereal disease free.
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Old 28-07-2004, 14:03   #9
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Old 25-08-2004, 15:00   #10
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The "best" botom paint depends on way too many variables to have one answer. Salt water or fresh? Warm or cool (or hot or cold)? Boat used a lot, or spends a lot of time at the dock or mooring? What country are you in? (Where we are we can use products which are VERY effective, but which are strictly a no-no in the states . Even personal preferences - ablative (soft surface which wears away exposing new active agents until the coating wears off - which simplifies putting on the next coat and avoids a build-up on the hull) or a hard finish, which provides a glossy look, more "slip" for better speed and a wider variety of colors, but which must be sanded off prior to recoating to avoid an excessive amount of paint on the hull. Give us a little more info and we can help you better.
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Old 22-02-2005, 03:50   #11
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Some reading

Bottom Paints: From “Coatings World” magazine:

“Cruising the Seas: Marine Coatings” (May 2004) ~ by Jenn Hess
http://www.coatingsworld.com/julaug992.htm
”Companies large and small continue to battle for position within the yacht coatings market by tempting boat owners with this year’s hottest products. ...”

“The Marine & Yacht Coatings Market” (2001) ~ by Kerry Pianaforte
http://www.coatingsworld.com/Oct011.htm
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Old 29-03-2005, 19:28   #12
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Michael, what proportions did you use for the "additives" to your Petit ACP50? Sounds like the "old salts" had something there.

And Capt. Harry, can you name some of those "very effective" products that I might be able to get in Trinidad?

I have many large expensive fish to fry first, but someday (sigh) I'll be shopping for bottom paint too!

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Old 29-03-2005, 23:17   #13
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Ceyenne peper could be worth a shot. Maybe chilli even. But I strongly disagree with the thought of putting an anti-biotic like tetracyline and tectracycline into the stuff. Firstly, anti-biotics won't kill marine growth. You need fungicides for that. But my main concern is allowing some other "life form" to be in such close and long term contact with an anti-biotic. Who knows what they may become immune to, or more importantly, make us allergic to. Think hat a little far fetched?? well a major marine paint company was playing with similar thoughts about 15 to 20years ago. There was strong opposition to the idea then. I personally have no clue if something nasty could be breed, but I just remember all the hoohaa back then, by the guy's that were supposed to be in the know.
Back to the paint though. Micheal applied 7 coats. I would suggest it was the thickness applied that has been the biggest factor in it's success. An ablative paint works three ways. Firstly it wears away. But it is also very porouse and slowly leeches out a poison, called biocide, that kills weed growth. Other additives, often copper oxide, leaves a nasty taste in the little fellows mnouths, when they try to cling on. If the paint is applied thick enough, this Paint "sponge" will hold alot of the nasty stuff to do the work a considerable time. However, ther can be a problem with application like this. The paint as it comes to the end of it's life, starts to shrink. Thus it starts cracking and becomes like orange peel in apperance. Large chunks can come off leaving a very rugged surface on the hull. There is only one way to solve the problem. Somwhere along the track, a major sand down is required. With applying two to three coats, you can often get 2 seasons out of a job. One to two coats will give a good season. Although I have to clarify hear, it depends on water temp, whether the salt water gets flushes of fresh regularly, and what the ability of the paint is like in the first place. But back to the number of coats. With ablative coatings, they wear away slowly. This is a benifit to when the time to recoat comes as much of the preperationm has already been done for you. A good hard water blast will often be enough. Do ensure you get as much off with the water blast as you can. Leaving too much of the old dry worn out paint will only do the same. Crack and flake off.

Remember, we only want to kill off or keep off the growth on the hull only. When Tin based anti-fouls were around, the hulls had never been cleaner. But the marinas and harbours were all dead worlds. It has taken some years for some places to come back to life. But it is so fantastic to sea such an abundance of Marine life in the Marinas again.
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Old 30-03-2005, 09:08   #14
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Antifouling - Cooper-Epoxy

Hi subscribers,
I have gathered some information about antifouling alternatives (and cleaning too).
Dispite all the right information you have written on this thread I read some about Cooper Epoxy paints and it effectiveness. They say it lasts up to 8 years with a soft algae grow that can be clean easily with sponge action every 6 months.
I do not have tried until now, but I will do.
You can read some reports on:
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/usernotes.html
There are a site explaining how we can made such antifouling (cooper powder and epoxy two components). Unlike common soft antifouling, they claim that this hard paint do not release the cooper content in the enviroment (?):
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/copper4u.html

Greatings

Francisco Xavier
francisco.xavier@csanet.pt
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Old 19-03-2008, 15:45   #15
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