What Is the Best Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint

[SurfNRG]

The local marina is pushing me on Blue Water Cooper Pro SCX 67 cause they claim that Trinidad has recently reduced their copper content in their paint.., Any one know this as true? I've always been happy with Trinidad Pro or SR and it's coming time for me to get her bottom done. Since they're both hard paints I would think one would be compatible with the other. Any thoughts?

[Jimbo485]

Has anyone increased the copper content by simply grinding a kilogram or two (?) of copper and then mixing it into a conventional anti-foul paint before slapping it on?

If so, please comment. It would be much appreciated. (No comments about cayenne pepper, please!)

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by SurfNRG

The local marina is pushing me on Blue Water Cooper Pro SCX 67 cause they claim that Trinidad has recently reduced their copper content in their paint.., Any one know this as true? I've always been happy with Trinidad Pro or SR and it's coming time for me to get her bottom done. Since they're both hard paints I would think one would be compatible with the other. Any thoughts?

It is true that Trinidad has has less copper now than in the past (now at about 60% as opposed to 70%+) but the reason is that Pettit now processes the copper in a different way during the manufacturing of the product, in theory making less copper more effective. What I can tell you is I have not noticed any difference in anti fouling performance between the old Trinidad and the new. It is still by far the best anti fouling paint available where I live and work, IMHO.

In my experience, when a boatyard pushes one particular anti fouling paint over another, it's because they got a good deal on a bunch of it and are trying to maximize their profit. Not that there is anything wrong with that, just that they may not have your best interests at heart. Know also that Blue Water Copper Pro SCX 67 is an ablative paint, not a hard paint. There is a hard version of the paint, but it is called Blue Water Copper Pro SCX Hard. Be sure you know what the yard is selling you.

[SurfNRG]

Just spoke with a tech at Petite and he informed me of their newer "clean core" technology that gives the same result using slightly less copper than previous (60% vs 65%). Better for the environment as well. Regarding the comment of adding copper powder to any other paint, they replied that unless the paint is properly added to the "binder" (not just the paint) that the cooper powder would come out thru the paint within a couple of weeks. I'm just going to stay with what I've been happy with the past 16 plus years and that's Trinidad by Petite. If the yard insists on me using their paint I'll move onto another yard.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by SurfNRG

Regarding the comment of adding copper powder to any other paint, they replied that unless the paint is properly added to the "binder" (not just the paint) that the cooper powder would come out thru the paint within a couple of weeks.

Of course. If making an existing anti fouling paint better was a simple as adding some ground-up copper wire, the chandlery shelves would be loaded with cans of copper powder. Same goes for cayenne pepper or any other homespun anti fouling "improvement."

[ElGatoGordo]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

Please pardon my skepticism but clearly you are associated with this product somehow. So maybe you can answer the questions I have, after visiting the company web site:

1.- NanoSave Tungsten Hull Coat claims to be "metal free". So what is the tungsten all about?

2.- The web site give very little useful information, but it appears that NanoSave Tungsten Hull Coat is a "foul release" type of coating. Is this the case?

3.- What in-water maintenance is recommended?

4.- Where has NanoSave Tungsten Hull Coat been used? Any real-world product performance anecdotes available? There is nothing but hype on the web site.

5.- What is meant by "Sea Hawk Premium Anti-fouling base"? Have you modified an existing product?

6.- What is your association with NanoSave Tungsten Hull Coat?


For the curious, here is the link:

N1 Marine products | Nano Oil and Paint Technology

DUDE!!!!! Back off!!!! Didn't you scroll to the bottom? There is a VERY atractive lady who looks VERY honest. I'm certain this is a great product!

[colemj]

Pretty girl aside, that product seems like snake oil. I just looked at their website and pulled up the MSDS's on the product.

It consists of a Seahawk base paint (no copper or other antifouling additives) to which they mixed in 1-5% of a commercially available pesticide (Pestanal) and a tungsten disulfide lubricant.

They make great claims about "nano" this and that, and show pictures of carbon buckyballs and nanotubes, but nowhere does the product contain any type of nano-structured compound for any reason.

It claims 100% metal-free, yet also claims 6% tungsten disulphide, which certainly contains tungsten metal. In their defense, it is not free metal, though.

Interestingly, they claim for best results one should add 2 pints of an organic tin booster.

Yes, that would provide good results in the few corners of the world where it is legal to do so.

Their warranty is quite interesting - 12 months guaranteed to not have any barnacles. If you do have barnacles, they will pay for the haulout and reapplication of their product or give you equivalent cash. I doubt they would ever make good on this, but I am pessimistic from the rest of their marketing.

Mark

[fstbttms]

My experience has been that when companies that make various non-marine coatings decide to whip something up or market one of their existing products as an anti fouling paint, it is rarely successful. You can tell by looking the N1 Marine Products web site that marine products are not their strong suit.

In any event, when it comes to unproven anti fouling technologies, my advice is, "Don't be the guinea pig."

[ElGatoGordo]

But The GIRL!!! Did you see the GIRL??????

[GeoPowers]

Originally Posted by SurfNRG

The local marina is pushing me on Blue Water Cooper Pro SCX 67 cause they claim that Trinidad has recently reduced their copper content in their paint.., Any one know this as true? I've always been happy with Trinidad Pro or SR and it's coming time for me to get her bottom done. Since they're both hard paints I would think one would be compatible with the other. Any thoughts?

I had very good success with BW Copper Pro SCX 67 up in the PNW, but haven't tried it on the east coast. Also, it is an ablative not hard bottom paint.

Frank

[redsky49]

I have used Blue Water Copper Pro SCX for about a year now. Not a lot of experience, but some.

While in Florida last winter, on two occasions we parked the boat for a month, either at a marina slip or a mooring. What I discovered was that a slight slime developed, starting at the waterline. While neighboring boats were being scrubbed while in the water, I figured I would just let things go to see what would happen. No scrubbing. This was a new product for me and I wanted to see how it would compare with Interlux products if just left alone. Note that in the past, I had regularly scrubbed the waterline when in warm water locations such as the Bahamas, and using a different brand paint.

When we pulled the boat after about eight months (not related to the bottom paint), there was a well-developed slime/growth for about 12" from the waterline down - that washed right off. I managed to find one small (really small) barnacle back at the rudder. Up until the boat was stationary in the water, nothing had formed on the bottom that I was aware of.

My takeaway from this experience was that once a slime had developed, the 6-7 knot speed of my boat through the water wasn't fast enough to wash off the growth. Perhaps a motorboat would move fast enough to wash off the growth. I really should have scrubbed the bottom while we were parked. [Also bear in mind that Florida is a real challenge for bottom paint. This seems to be the epicenter of growth, outside of some polluted foreign harbors.] Other than the slime, I am pretty well satisfied so far. I am interested to see how long this paint will be effective.

One minor quibble, the blue paint color, once immersed, isn't as vivid a color as I would like.

As for cost/value, at the price I paid (I applied the paint myself) I have zero complaints, and would recommend for similar applications!

As other have said, the boating locale has a lot to do with proper antifouling choice. In the Chesapeake, I had good luck in the past with Woolsey Neptune. When they got eaten up by Petit, Fiberglass Bottomkote (I think) was the Interlux product that I used until I saw the light and started to use an ablative paint.

If all else fails, ask the guy in the slip next to you what works (or doesn't).

[nhschneider]

We're scheduled to haul out on the 10th of November and the yard only has Jotun Sea Force 90 available. On Jotun's website, it says that the paint is intended for steel and aluminum vessels - our boat is fiberglass.

Does anyone have any experience applying this paint to fiberglass?

Does anyone have any experience at getting different brands of paint shipped into Malaysia?

Fair winds and calm seas.

[daletournier]

I'm In Malaysia now, Jotun Sea force 90 definitely is Ok for fiberglass boats as l have it on mine. Ive only used it for One year and 5 months of that I've been out of the water so cant really assess how good it is. But Ive met a number of cruisers that swear by it. And l know you can get another brand at Port Klang.
Regards Dale.

[bgallinger]

Originally Posted by georgetheleo

Seahawk sucks

I had planned on using Seahawk bottom paint. Can you describe your problems with it?

[WFF]

People add Cayenne pepper to bottom paint because of its hotness right.
Cayenne pepper = 30,000 - 50,000 Scoville Units.

Habanero pepper extract = 1,000,000 Scoville Units.

It works well.