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Old 15-10-2008, 14:39   #31
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I've got a few not so good pictures of the pastel green non skid on my boat's decks. Send me an email roverhiatyahoodotcom and I'll send a couple of pic's.

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Old 15-10-2008, 14:46   #32
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Peter O:
How do the colour samples I posted compare to your reality?
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Old 15-10-2008, 15:00   #33
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Originally Posted by Roy M View Post
It may be that in New Zealand, you have lower levels of Ultraviolet rays beating down on you, where you live, but for the majority of folks, it's the UV that causes them to refinish their paint, varnish, or other topcoatings. Epoxy simply doesn't have the edge that LPU has on surface coatings in severe environments (in this case, mainly sunlight, but also expansion/contraction stresses).


You have clearly not taken the time to read what I wrote before leaping into print. I have made no comment to denigrate linear polyurethanes or claim that epoxies, varnishes, etc have longer or even similar lives in UV environments. In fact I made comments supportive of polyurethanes.

As you do not seem you understand what was said, I set out in my post what is a common strategy to actually use the shorter life of epoxy as a convenience for non skid areas (NOT the whole deck). The life of non skid additives is often much shorter than polyurethane by quite an amount, polyurethane itself is glassy hard and preparation of it for subsequent recoating at end of life of the non slip additive is quite a chore (especially of the additive is a mineral one).

However, softer epoxies with their aging from UV means that preparation for subsequent coating at end of life is very much easier. It turns out that the useful life of the non slip additive is often about the same as the epoxy so the end result from using epoxy does not shorten the useful life of the non slip surface itself.

This strategy I have seen used in both tropic and temperate regions and by competent boat builders.

I am sure if you go back and reread my previous post without a red mist over your eyes you will see that is what I have said. You will also actually see that my thoughts for my own boat is to coat the whole deck with polyurethane and use the above strategy using epoxy over it for the non skid areas only.

I hope that clears up the misunderstanding you have of what was said and clarifies it for anyone else who may have been confused either by what I wrote or by your lathering over it.
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Old 15-10-2008, 15:05   #34
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Originally Posted by Fishspearit View Post
Sorry to interrupt the petty back and forth bickering, but back to the topic. While looking at the colors offered in Kiwi grip, I noticed that they have a light green color for the non-skid. I'm having a real hard time picturing what a boat with light green non-skid might look like. Anyone have pictures of such a thing? I see lots of gray, creme, and even light blue tint, but never green.
Fishspearit:

My Triton has light green non-skid. rob.JPG (image)

Not the best picture in the world... but prior to recoring the deck.

Edit: Yeah, the bow cleat was in the way of the skill saw... (Grin)
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Old 15-10-2008, 15:19   #35
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References to "you" (especially ones with negative connotations) are NOT REQUIRED (nor desirable) when presenting opposing opinions.
Let's keep the personal issues out of this!
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Old 15-10-2008, 15:54   #36
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It's pretty close to the pastel greenon on the color chart. Mine might be a little lighter but it's been down for 40 years so may have faded a bit. I haven't had any heat problems with the color but then I'm in SF Bay where it's always perfect sailing, not too hot, not too cold.

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Old 04-09-2010, 09:27   #37
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Going to the very high latitudes? many choose orange,red ,or yellow to stand out against ice fields. Otherwise a very light color is needed for the decks as pointed out by others here. The problem with a bright white deck is the glare which becomes very fatiguing to the eyes on bright days even in the mid latitudes and even when wearing dark polariods.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:07   #38
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Teak decks for me. Except for the weeks worth of labor it takes to maintain them every few years, they are awesome. Cool, comfy, pretty, and non skid.

I just had to make this post to pat myself on the back, since the last few weeks have been full of caulking.
+1

Expensive, and a pain in the a*z to maintain, but worth every bit of it. Superbly non-skid, non-glare, cool, lovely to walk on, nice to look at (even when worn and gray).
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:40   #39
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... Superbly non-skid ... cool, lovely to walk on ...
I disagree completely.

Iíve always found teak decks to be very hot, especially on bare feet, and not very non-skid when wet.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:46   #40
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teak decks are hot as helll-o, and that reminds the owner to flush them with salt water--cools them off and keeps them maintained. they need sea water to remain good, and they need that sea water, according to the installers i have met and consulted with, every single day. i prefer them, but i dont have them, dagnabit. my decks are beige and hotter than teak. when barefoot, on untreated(except with sea water) teak decking is nonskid--best i have ever found. i wear no shoes driving nor sailing. add any treatment to the decking, no more nonskid factor. but i am different than most...
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:55   #41
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I disagree completely.

Iíve always found teak decks to be . . . not very non-skid when wet.
Must not have been worn out enough! When they are a bit knackered they are the best non-skid known to man! I swear I could walk vertically on mine when wet!
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:05   #42
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teak decks are hot as helll-o, and that reminds the owner to flush them with salt water--cools them off and keeps them maintained. they need sea water to remain good, and they need that sea water, according to the installers i have met and consulted with, every single day. i prefer them, but i dont have them, dagnabit. my decks are beige and hotter than teak. when barefoot, on untreated(except with sea water) teak decking is nonskid--best i have ever found. i wear no shoes driving nor sailing. add any treatment to the decking, no more nonskid factor. but i am different than most...
Very true words! Never treat them with anything or all bets are off! They have their true qualities when worn to silver gray color (with green algae spots in some cases, hah hah) -- that "good f*cked up look" (when motor yachtsmen look on your decks witih disdain, you know they're just right). Buckets of sea water every day keeps them happy, and sailing in rough weather (green water on deck) keeps the algae at bay.

They insulate the cabin which will definitely be cooler. If even teak is too hot to walk on, then wear deck shoes!
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:16   #43
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well worn decks dont get grey--they remain a nice light brown color and need a cover to make caulking minimal--yet with access for flushing decks when boat is not in motion. rock salt and a swabbees mop are the perfect tools for deck work.(jmho)

nothing like the look of a REAL(wood) boat with REAL decks....(and the wallet required for the up keep!)
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Old 06-09-2010, 18:24   #44
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Decks...

Teak look,last and stick great but much too hot for me.
White nice'n'cool. I use white ProLine LP, something the local tugs use...very tough & long-lasting. Will be experimenting with rubber tennis-ball filler this time rather than sand... plenty sticky but easier on knees and better paint retention supposedly. Will see how the usual sanding trechnique works loading up the wet paint with the material and once dry vacuming into a clean wet/dry vac for re-use. Will probably do an experiment with it next week.
Glare with the white?
Rather wear shades than shoes
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Old 06-09-2010, 19:16   #45
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Sanitred for deck non-skid

Try Sanitred, some choice of colors, great rubber granules for non-skid and very tough. We have used it on several boats and it lasts, is easy to repair and is soft enough that if you drop a wrench on it, there is just a dull thud, no clank or dent. A bit labor-intensive to install but well worth it IMHO.
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