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coopec43 · 14-12-2019, 14:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

I would start be just bleaching and flushing the tanks. What you stand to lose by trying this first.

Btw algae is unlikely to hurt you. You have gor swimming in a lake i bet

" Contact with the algae by recreational users can be harmful. There have been reports of skin and eye irritations, nausea, vomiting, muscle weakness or cramps by some people who have swum through algal scum or swallowed it. Blue-green algae blooms can cause: harmful human health effects.(CSIRO)

Djarraluda · 14-12-2019, 15:01

Use bleach freely, then flush but.... that is for FG and Plastics. Do not use bleach with Stainless Steel elements in the system as it corrodes.
Chlorine bleach is used by water authorities to sterilise pipe work after new installs and repairs.
Copper is fabulous in the system. Natural biocide, non-toxic. PEX installations in housing nowadays is leading to an increase in algae growth. As such, add a few short lengths of copper in the system, it keeps the pipe work clean, but avoid in bilge areas or where exposed to seawater to avoid corrosion.
Roger

billgewater · 14-12-2019, 15:07

My two bob's worth. (An old Aussie adage) Whatever finish/lining hoses you use ensure you do have appropriate filters. Particle filters and carbon filters generally do a great job and improve safety and taste. One chap at our marina has an in line filter on the tank filler system which is probably a case of overkill.
Maybe they are not the panacea for all chemical/leaching problems and maybe you should have the final product tested.
Also, if cruising, the water source may be questionable, although most western countries have suburban water supplies that are probably "better" than many bottled expensive varieties. Certainly in Aus. and NZ, dock side water supplies meet extremely high standards and we find it a bit sad when we see visitors loading up with plastic bottles of water from the local supermarket. (Not to mention the plastic pollution problem from the containers) Whatever.
However my main beef is with the use of facets, taps or whatever you choose to call them. I have a foot switched electric pumps at the galley and bathroom sink and I can assure you we use much less water than a turn on faucet. The small in line pump is cheaper than most pressure demand electric pumps and should something go wrong, it won't empty the tank into the bilge. It is also quieter and takes up much less space. I do use those plastic in line valves so the water flow is instantaneous. The only thing we lose is variability of flow that a pressurized system can provide. The trick is to use a low flow rate in line pump. The savings are really worth it.
If you have the luxury of an on board shower, then maybe the foot pump won't be as nice to use, but maybe someone has tried this.

coopec43 · 14-12-2019, 18:38

One person on this forum (who seemed to know what he was talking about) warned of the dangers of filters.

https://healthywa.wa.gov.au/Articles...-for-your-home

Manrico · 14-12-2019, 18:49

I'm buying 2 waterbeds for singles to stock water in my new old boat, us$80 each, to be accommodated in the compartment below bed. It's simple and cheap, the hose is garden like, don't need ventilation, only one pipe to put water in and out, one bleach spoon is sufficient for long lasting, they are made of silicon plastic, well, I don't research if it is food friendly but it seems so, and I don't use to drink, but cooking yes. Each one stock about 100 litros of water, I had 2 for 5 years in my old boat without problems, and they are still there.
Nice regards from Brazil.
Manrico D'Alessandro.

kev_rm · 14-12-2019, 18:55

WTF? No bitumen (f'ing TAR - HYDROCARBONS) is suitable for potable water.

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

Tanks for potable water should not be fiber glassed into the hull unless the tank is has a suitable non toxic coating. Without the coating styrene from the polyester leaches into the water.

West System does not recommend epoxy for water tanks.
https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php...nk-guidelines/

Maybe you should cut large access ports so you can clean the internal walls of the tanks and coat them with a black water based bitumen suitable for potable water.

https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9...af66fa699f.pdf

Uncle Bob · 14-12-2019, 19:06

Simple really, add a cup or two of bleach and top up the tanks, go sailing to stir it all up and then drain. Refill tanks and go sailing to stir it all up, drain tanks, rinse and repeat then refill tanks and taste, should be just fine. If lines are contaminated make sure that they are flushed each time as well. If this process is not entirely successful, repeat. If still not happy then purchase Peggy Halls book on dealing with boat odours.

coopec43 · 14-12-2019, 23:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by kev_rm

WTF? No bitumen (f'ing TAR - HYDROCARBONS) is suitable for potable water.

I'm not sure whether that is your attempt at humor?

Have you read earlier posts or are you a johnny come lately? Did you read post #4 at all by any chance?

Uncle Bob · 14-12-2019, 23:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

I'm not sure whether that is your attempt at humor?

Have you read earlier posts or are you a johnny come lately? Did you read post #4 at all by any chance?

Mate, collection and storage are two different things!

Grattaway · 15-12-2019, 00:00

You said that the tanks were black - i assume inside
so maybe algae or actually a coating to avoid leaching

billgewater · 15-12-2019, 01:21

Noticed comments about the safety aspect of various filters. True. They are not a panacea and users should check the appropriateness of any filters used. Generally they won't stop bacteria, but bacterial issues are usually a feature of the water source rather than issues within a tank - unless someone leaves a dead animal in the tank!. Chlorine treatment etc. or water boiling may be needed. But don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. Filters are used extensively and in 40 + years of mucking around with cruising boats I have never come across any clear bacterial problems associated with tanks or filters. However, as a precaution I do a chlorine wash every couple of years.

I mentioned the use of foot switched galley pumps and I forgot to mention that if anyone is concerned about bacteria etc. then by not using a tap handle you avoid probably the most common source of infections on a boat. You visit the loo or clean bird poo off the deck then use your hands to operate a tap and then use your cleansed hands to turn the tap off. I can't see how you can avoid problems with the use of standard taps.

coopec43 · 15-12-2019, 01:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Mate, collection and storage are two different things!

Geeez there's a few idiots looking for a village here!

coopec43 · 15-12-2019, 02:59

Apparently tank water is a real problem on boats. Some time ago they did a survey on this? (or another forum) on how many boaties relied on their tanks for drinking water and only a third claimed they did. Most said they didn't like the taste

I just found the thread and it is on another forum. According to the survey the majority(?) that do drink tank water insist on boiling it first.

This is relevant
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-ok-52890.html

roland stockham · 15-12-2019, 12:56

I think in this case I would look at either epoxy coating the tanks or fitting flexible liners. Obviously you need big enough ports to service the tanks.
On plumbing I find that snap together plastic pipe and fittings works much better than copper and avoids the corrosion issues. It is also cheap, simple and fast to both put togeter and repair