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Old 22-11-2005, 20:59   #16
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Seafox, have you ever stopped in at the chandlery at Waikawa?? Email David, he will supply you international paint cheaper than you will find it anywhere, I promise.
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Old 22-11-2005, 21:57   #17
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thanks
I will send him an email.
Just about sanded the floors.
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Old 22-11-2005, 22:10   #18
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You tell him that I recomended you to him and that I said he is to give you a good deal.
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Old 23-11-2005, 08:34   #19
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Third vote for ultimate sole...as the others said.. looks and works great! [not slippery when wet]
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Old 23-11-2005, 12:48   #20
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Never seen it in NZ.
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Old 23-11-2005, 15:40   #21
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It's a US based company fairly small. Not sure if they have distribution over there or not. Here's the web site might be worth it or with shipping and everything else maybe not.

http://www.ultimatesole.com/

Before I put this stuff on I used a product designed for gym floors. [i.e. basketball court] it was called gymseal by valspar.
that might be more widely available. If I recall the guys that developed ultimate sole used to work for valspar and set the goal as a better varnish than gymseal from a non slip standpoint with a higher gloss.
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Old 23-11-2005, 15:46   #22
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One thing that has always troubled me with varnished decks is that they tend to be very slippery when wet. The boat that I currently own was built in South Africa but I have seen a similar treatment on boats from New Zealand.

After the sole was varnished, straight roughly 3/8" wide strips were taped off roughly 1 1/2 inches on center and then rolled with a non-skid pattern. On some boats that I have seen the non-skid is aligned with the holly in the sole and so is minimally visible. I have been amazd at how well this treatment works.

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Old 24-11-2005, 02:38   #23
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Jeff:
Do you mean that Varnish is laid down in a textured pattern, to form the non-skid stripes? Is this done on the last coat, or is it overcoated?
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Old 24-11-2005, 08:10   #24
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Gordon,

It would appear that the entire sole was given the normal coats of vanish including a final coat of varnish, and then the non-skid stripes were taped off, sanded, and given a coat of vanish that was then dry rolled to produce the non-skid.

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Old 25-11-2005, 12:55   #25
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The original post was for a cabin floor, I think the recent posts have been in reference to deck paints.

If coating with 2 pot lacquers, always test the previous coat as if it was single pot turps based, there will be an adhesion problem.

You may need to wipe the surface with an all purpose type thinner and a rag. If the rag gets varnish traces/stains it will possibly be single pack. Single pack paint is definately not suitable for a cabin floor.
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Old 26-11-2005, 00:41   #26
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I am sanding them all back to bare wood so I can start again with the international two pot varnish.
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Old 09-12-2005, 13:57   #27
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Floors all stripped with Dads Easy Stripper from the USA. Cost about $100 for a 4 litre tin. Takes off all the old varnish real well.

Light sand and then five coats of Altex two pot Epoxy Timber sealer.

Now I have to give what you see a light sand 340 grit and then apply four to five coats of International Two Pot Varnish.

Alan was right about the mask. You wouldn't last five mins without one. I bought a 3m charcoal two cyl one and it works very well. I stank the whole house out (internal access garage)
yet I couldn't smell a thing through the mask.

Anyone know how long these mask filters last??

20 year old cabing soles with five coats of sealer and ready for sanding for final coats of two pot varnish.
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Old 17-12-2005, 02:01   #28
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Does anyone know how long the two pot international perfection varnish takes to go hard? I have to use the boat 36 hours after the final coat. It has been 25 deg celcius here and dropping to around 15min over night. Good low humidity.
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Old 14-07-2006, 23:07   #29
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my photos seemed to have dissapeared


thats better.
Thats the photo that used to be on the post above.
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